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HELP!!! PSD WONT START

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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 08:04 AM
  #31  
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From: Fort Campbell, KY
Originally Posted by dthompson
with the key in the on position all fuses test good.....don't think glow plugs are on....the battery guage never moves up or anything....thanks guys
So when you rotate to the "on" position, nothing on the dash cluster happens. No gauges or lights? How about in the "start" position... any lights appear then, gauge movement (any of them)?

Try shifting in to neutral and then starting?

If no go, I hate to say it but you need to find someone there that can pull the codes. If your SES light came on, there is some info in there... we need it to see what the PCM was seeing just be fore it went Tango Uniform , (broke) Where are you located? Might be a member close that could lend a hand with that.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 12:33 PM
  #32  
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ok no go in neutral...the ses light is on the battery light, and temp/oil light...gauges are on too...going to see if i can get a friends programmer to pull the codes....could this be possible glow plug relay? thanks guys
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 03:41 PM
  #33  
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From: Fort Campbell, KY
Originally Posted by dthompson
ok no go in neutral...the ses light is on the battery light, and temp/oil light...gauges are on too...going to see if i can get a friends programmer to pull the codes....could this be possible glow plug relay? thanks guys
Certainly could be a contributing factor, BUT, with no WTS light, the PCM is not preparing the truck to start (fuel pump, glow plugs, etc...) Now, is the voltage gauge also moving? If so, is the gauge closer to the 18v (like 3/4 of the way up?) As you may know, the trucks need voltage during the start cycle... like ~10 volts or more.

So even if all the systems are a go, it will not start with out the PCM. We have to get your WTS light to start cycling again. (There is the possibility, how ever slight, that your WTS light has burned out.) Just something to keep in the back of your head. Keep us updated.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 04:05 PM
  #34  
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Make sure you can feel the PCM power relay operate when someone cycles the key.
If it isn't, the PCM relay diode in position 37 may be bad or loose.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 07:02 PM
  #35  
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ok the battery gauge is up toward 18 then when i crank it goes down....doesn't even sounding like its trying...all of the fuses diodes and relays seem good did some swapping....anyway to actually test the relays and diodes....thanks guys...i hope this fight ends soon!!! i'm getting discouraged!!!
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 07:27 PM
  #36  
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From: Fort Campbell, KY
Originally Posted by dthompson
ok the battery gauge is up toward 18 then when i crank it goes down....doesn't even sounding like its trying...all of the fuses diodes and relays seem good did some swapping....anyway to actually test the relays and diodes....thanks guys...i hope this fight ends soon!!! i'm getting discouraged!!!
No, discouraged don't work here , your in good hands... there is some real talent here! Now, sounds like your batteries are really TIERED. Give'm a good charge. Best to have one of the chargers that automatically steps down the amperage. Start in the 12-15 amp range, and let them get good and charged. BEFORE you charge the batteries though, check the acid levels. I know it's a PITA if you still have those crappy covers on the batteries from the factory. I always remove them because the impede normal maintenance. You might be surprised to find the levels are low, perhaps even exposing some of the plates... that's really bad. Anyway I've seen my share of batteries explode due to low acid while being charged, not good. Be sure and let us know if you feel that relay activate for the PCM as previously stated. And or if your WTS light starts coming on again.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 07:31 PM
  #37  
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From: Payson, AZ
Originally Posted by dthompson
ok the battery gauge is up toward 18 then when i crank it goes down....
Like previously stated if voltage drops below 10.5 while cranking it will not start. Just saying.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 07:31 PM
  #38  
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lol thanks for the support....which relay #30? should i be able to feel it click or something? thanks
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 07:43 PM
  #39  
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Put finger on it, #30 relay . Have some turn on the key.. Should feel it click. As Robin had mentioned
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 07:47 PM
  #40  
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ok....just checked batteries ~13 before then while cranking one drops to 10.53 and other 10.2x should be enough right? Then borrowed a friend's scan tool....never would establish a good connection ....makes no sense to me...can't feel the relay click....
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 07:53 PM
  #41  
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Have you tried to jump with another Vehicle? More battery power. 10.5 and 10.2 seems low
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 07:54 PM
  #42  
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ok we can try just sounds like its not doing anything but cranking....just doesnt' sound right to me...
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 08:19 PM
  #43  
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Check to see if you are getting power to the fuel pump when you turn the key on. You only have about 20 seconds to test so may need a helper. Sounds like to me you need to do some troubleshooting through some wiring diagrams.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 08:39 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by dthompson
ok....just checked batteries ~13 before then while cranking one drops to 10.53 and other 10.2x should be enough right? Then borrowed a friend's scan tool....never would establish a good connection ....makes no sense to me...can't feel the relay click....
When a scantool cannot estalish a connection it means the PCM is not getting power.

Upper left corner of this Power Distrbution diagram is the path to supply power to the PCM. With key on or in start power goes through under dash fuse #30 to the PCM Relay Diode to the PCM Relay winding to ground. If you can't feel the PCM relay operate it has to be a problem along that path.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 08:53 PM
  #45  
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cps man what color are you useing?just a quess
 
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