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Ive got a 71 3/4ton and when im driving at night with my headlights keep turning off. I turn the swtich off then back on and they come on. I think the thermal breakers are weak on it. Does anyone know where they are. I heard on the headlight harness and i have heard they are apart of the switch. Can anyone help me greatly appreciate it.
I will guess that you have halogen or other higher powered/brighter than original headlights. Is this correct? The wiring and headlight switch in these trucks were just barely stout enough to handle the amperage draw of the original style headlights when the truck was new and after 35+ years the resistance has increased and if you compound that by upping the amp draw even a little bit, the switch and/or wiring will overheat causing the switch to do what you describe and or burn up the wires and/or switch. The absolute best upgrade you can do for your truck is to install a 2 relay system to power your headlights. With the relays you will only be using the existing headlight wiring to control the relays which is only a tiny amperage draw. Do a search and you will find several threads with links to instructions/diagrams/schematics for doing this upgrade. It is really very simple and you should do it even if you haven't upgraded your headlights. Check this link: Whiter Whites, Brighter Brights .: Articles
You may wish to simplify by eliminating the forced low beam option, but this should give you a good overview.
Hope This Helps,
Gene
If you replaced the Headlamps themselves with Halogen headlamps, or if someone did in the past, the extra current draw could be enough to trigger the thermal breaker in the headlamp switch.
The original stock headlamps were incandecent, not halogen.
If the headlamps are halogen, it will say so on the lamp itself somewhere on the lens face.
The thermal breaker in the headlamp switch can also get weak over time. Comon problem.
Or the thermal breaker is doing it's job, and you got a short in the wiring or defective dimmer switch somewhere, etc....
I'd go down the list and check the following...
1: Halogen Headlamps instead of incandecents... Replace the halogens with incandecent lamps, or upgrade wiring to handle Halogens. As mentioned by 68 horses in the tech article above... https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...r_Brights.html
2: Weak Thermal breaker in headlamp switch. Replace switch.
3: Defective dimmer switch, or wiring... repair as necessary.
The original stock headlamps were incandecent, not halogen.
Actually, they're both incandescent; ie, they both incandesce, or glow by heating a filament. The difference is the halogen light uses a small bulb around the filament to surround it with a halogen gas, which helps to re-deposit back onto the filament the metal that normally boils off the filament from the heat and deposits onto the inside of the bulb. This allows the filament to be run hotter with the same power or driven with more power and give off whiter light, and last longer than non-halogen filaments.
Halogen lights can be made with the same power as regular sealed beams, but they are typically made with the maximum power allowed by DOT (55/65 watts), which is higher than the old sealed beam lights (35/45 watts), so yes, they will be a bigger strain on the stock wiring and switches. It seems ALL Fords came from the factory with inadequate headlight wiring, and should be retrofitted with relays.
Thanks guys for everything. I spoke with a Ford truck guy here in Tacoma and he said he'd bet that its the switch is bad. So im gonna try that and if it dont work ill be back lol
Actually, they're both incandescent; ie, they both incandesce, or glow by heating a filament. The difference is the halogen light uses a small bulb around the filament to surround it with a halogen gas, which helps to re-deposit back onto the filament the metal that normally boils off the filament from the heat and deposits onto the inside of the bulb. This allows the filament to be run hotter with the same power or driven with more power and give off whiter light, and last longer than non-halogen filaments.
Thanks for the correction... I was thinking of another term that totally slipped my mind at the moment... 1:00am..
Halogen lights can be made with the same power as regular sealed beams, but they are typically made with the maximum power allowed by DOT (55/65 watts), which is higher than the old sealed beam lights (35/45 watts), so yes, they will be a bigger strain on the stock wiring and switches. It seems ALL Fords came from the factory with inadequate headlight wiring, and should be retrofitted with relays.
Very true, they were using the same basic system for decades, untill the 1992 model came out. However Halogens became standard in 1980 so those can handle the extra wattage "usually".
You can buy hi output Halogen replacements, but not sure how legal they are either.
Thanks guys for everything. I spoke with a Ford truck guy here in Tacoma and he said he'd bet that its the switch is bad. So im gonna try that and if it dont work ill be back lol
Adding to:
Kyle, The switch could be bad, but the issue is long known about, has bothered many trucks on a 25 year or so build period.
As mentioned prior, pull your dimmer switch up off the floor and clean it, next to the light switch, try slipping the wires off and wiggling them back on. This can clean minor corrosion,
Adding the relays as per the article is a must do. I don't remember where I got my new sockets but everything should be available at your local favorite parts house. It is a very good upgrade for the truck