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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 10:26 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by rbaker6336
OT
I ain't had a $35 power bill in 35+ years
You've never lived in Arizona
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 10:29 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Vinford
Whats a timer cost?
About $18. Took me approximately 3 months to pay for mine, from savings on electricity.

And Ray...yes...I can be a major miser when it comes to utility bills. That bill in particular was one from summertime, I think..in Colorado and at the time I had no AC and I was gone a lot...
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 10:32 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by BioHazrdMan
1500W at 120V = 12.5amps!

I just plugged mine in and hooked up a amp meter/clamp and it said 7.5amps.
I've always been told they are 1000W??
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 10:42 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by BadDogPSD
I've always been told they are 1000W??
That would be 8.3 amps.

We're all over the place.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 12:32 AM
  #35  
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I have 3 on cycles and 3 off cycles. If you get more of the little push pin do-dads and just shove them into your timer I would guess you could have as many cycles as you want provided you have the space to squeeze in the litlle do-dad pins.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 12:46 AM
  #36  
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I also heard the 1000 watt rating. As for your cord, 14awg would be a good size to go with. If you can get a 12awg, that would be better plus you now have a nice long cord that can run a bunch of larger tools if need be. Now if your really want to go all out, Lowes sells yellow jacket extension cords and they carry one thats 10awg and 100ft long. Its rated 20amps at that length (way beyond overkill). The nice thing about running block heaters in cold weather is that it generally keeps the cord cooler (assuming its all outside and not hooked up indoors).
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 09:41 AM
  #37  
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From: Clinton
Originally Posted by BioHazrdMan
No, sorry! Didn't mean to make fun of you at all! That calculation for how much it cost was spot on! I think I have had a few too many....

I do wonder where the differance is though... at 1500W it SHOULD pull 12.5 amps. I just checked mine, at 20deg out and it pulled 7.5anps.

Back on topic, I think to be absolutely safe use a 12gauge cord but in theory a 14gauge should work.
the differance is the voltage you calculated for 120v and i highly dought you are acualy getting 120 v prob more like 112-115 v that will change the amp draw. with you only getting 7.5 amps i would say you only have a 1000w heater like someone said.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 09:59 AM
  #38  
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It *is* 1kW. I measured it:


And I definitely get more than 120 :
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 08:52 PM
  #39  
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Our block heaters are 1000 watts, or about 8.3 amps (@120 volts). Voltage drop at 75 feet with a #14 copper cord is 3.2% for 8.3 amps @ 120 volts, which is less than 4 volts. But you need to add the length of the circuit it is plugged into also, unless your receptacle is right at the panel. If it is a 15 amp circuit and it is 50 feet to the panel, the drop increases to 5.4%, or 6.5 volts. A 20 amp circuit would be less voltage drop due to the 12 gauge wire, as would a 12 gauge cord.

None of this voltage drop will damage a resistive load like a block heater, and will result in only a minor reduction in heating, that you'd never notice. I wouldn't be surprised if the block heater cord is only 16 gauge.

At 1000 watts a #14 cord won't get hot enough to be a hazard either. It might be a hazard if you used a #18 extension cord, but they are hard to find since they are no longer allowed to be imported to the US.

I hooked my block heater up to a keychain controlled remote relay rated for 13 amps resistive, I can turn it on from inside the house when I get up. I don't have a set schedule, or I'd use a timer.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 09:12 PM
  #40  
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good posts everyone and very informative thanks for the info
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 09:16 PM
  #41  
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Uh yeah, I was gonna say that.
 
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