When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Jason, very entertaining. The method described is close to my own system but told in a much more enjoyable way.
A worth 5,000th post. Way to go hombre!
Number 5000 was in the Club, but it was a joke.
I've actually met the owner of The Woodbutcher's Shop, though it's been over 5 years since I've seen him. I belong to several woodworking groups online, and we do get together from time to time, though I haven't been to a gathering in some time, nor have I done much woodworking in recent years.
For kitchen knives, I just use a sharpener that has a set of carbide cutters in a vee, next to a set of ceramic honers in a vee. Just draw the knife through the carbide 4-5 times, then the ceramic 4-5 times. Skip the carbide if the knife isn't too beat up. Neither my wife nor I are professional chefs, so this is quick and works reasonably well. Once in a while, I will break out a sharpening jig I have with a T-clamp and stones set in plastic handles with extendable rods that feed through slots in the clamp to maintain angle. With that setup, I can get a knife razor sharp, though it takes a while because the stones are narrow, resulting in quite a few passes over each side of the blade.
I use the sandpaper method and ultra fine waterstones on straight edges like chisel and plane irons.
Though my EDC Kershaw pocket knife is razor sharp it is still a compromise between a lasting edge and the sharpest I could possibly make it.
For a kitchen or butchering knife you typically would want a little 'tooth' and a broader included angle to better support the cutting edge.
It will keep it's edge longer, allow you to hack through cartilage and scrape bone.
I know the Lansky Professional Crock Stick I have gives you a 40* included angle and 50* on the microbevel.
It's great for these sort of knives.
I use a four sided diamond hone from Harbor Freight. It would be nice if it had an 800 side instead of 600, but I have been happy with it. The key is to take your time and keep your angle consistent. Do three or four strokes on one side, then three or four on the other, then hold the knife edge side up and sight along the sharp edge in bright light. If you don't see any light reflected, you're done. If there is a shiny spot, have at it again.
The only way to really learn is to practice, but the one key to remember is that your time is worthless. You don't get paid for how many knives you can sharpen in a given time, so just concentrate on the one.
Use that for many wordworking tools. But I still like the Lansky for pocket and hunting knives. It really takes all the need for skill out of the process.
old boy that sharpens knives for a living around here uses a belt sander with 400 grit paper on it. just don't keep it on long enought to get the blade hot and watch the angle. should take a few minutes to do both sides allowing a cooling period between sides.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.