I have a home built in the 60's. There is no insulation in the crawl space.
Do I use faced or unfaced and if it says face up, is it towards the floor above or towards the dirt below (facing me)?

Same for attic faced or unfaced between the cieling joist?
Thanks

 

I assume you are talking paperbacked Insulation.

Aim the fibreglass part toward the cold part and the paper toward the warmer part.


For the attic, I would use non-paperbacked.

 

A 60 ish house usually has crappy insulation all around. Areas you can access are the crawlspace and attic. Buy encapsulated batts. When you start working in the crawlspace you'll find its worth the money. There is a side meant to face the heated area. It's easier to use wire struts ( cheap and usually 100 to a box) every 2' or so than staples as long as joists are 16 0r 24 OC or there abouts and batts fit snug. staple other areas get youself a wacker type stapler. If it's easy to move around install all full sized uncut batts first and go back in one shot and install cuts. Make cuts slightly oversized use sharp utility knife press batt with 2x4 over a piece of plywood to make nice cuts and keep facing intact. Keep using sharp blades. Fill ALL voids and holes where pipes and ducts penetrate floor. Foam in cans works great here. Some foam can be used as a fire stop or use firestop mineral batt material to plug holes and gaps. In the event of a fire down there the drafts will push flames right up into upper floor walls. Batts should be secure as floor vibrates and batts will drop over time. Perfectly installed kraft faced gives better vapor barrier, foil faced gives better heat reflection. Both will degrade over time if crawlspace is damp. You might opt to wear a tyvek suit and USE a good face mask and glasses. If you have a cement rat slab or compacted floor roll youself around on a dolly with a plywood top. Precut 4' batts are easier to handle butt them tight against each other at ends. Dont compress material if possible. R value comes from the air space in the batts. It's worth it, since you're set up to work down there, to insul-wrap pipes and ducts. Uninsulated metal HVAC ducts can be insulated with 1/2" rigid foam panels and a few sheet metal screws. Not ideal but it will save you money on heating bills and keep heat temps up over long duct runs. Sheets of special fiber insulation for ducts are available but might be a little pricey. Be carefull of using combustables. Panels like fiber sound board cut and insulate well but will feed & accelerate flame spread. Properly pitched waste lines don't need insulation. Use split insultubes meant for water piping. most come with preattached tape to secure. Don't forget to insulate fittings. You might want to use armor flex (used for refrigeration lines) on hot water lines. Split by hand shove wood dowel inside, slice and use foil tape to secure cuts. Keeps cuts face down heat rises. Problem areas close to exterior - use electric heat tape and the temp control switch made for them. GFI and strap up all wires off damp floors. Home capital punishment doesn't need a supreme court vote nor allow appeals. Fill joists with max size insulation unlike walls and roof rafters where air flow is important. Don't use r19 if you can fit 30. Check crawlspace vents. If standard size you might want to retrofit intelli-vents that will open and close automatically with heat and humidity changes. Do not block openings meant to allow air circulation. Mold is a killer & will hold moisture agaist joists and rot them. A good job will make the house feel much better. You know that show "Dirty Jobs" - you're about to do one!

 

Rent a machine at a home center and blow in a nice loose but full blanket over the ceiling joists. Don't overfill and be carefull of insulation around recessed light cans unless they are rated for IC contact. THIS IS A FIRE HAZARD!!!!! Roof rafters over vaulted areas or exposed to heated areas: use styrofoam baffles against roof sheating. No air flow will overheat roof, rot wood and ruin shingles. Kraft on the heated side. Staple to sides of joists for all important air gap between drywall and insulation

 

And don't compress the insulation.

You want it somewhat fluffed up.

After all, the higher the R-value, the more you're paying for the air in the insulation.

Paying for air; go figure.

 

thanks guys
will do