When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
well,I found out Friday morning when I was field dressing the 10 pointer I shot,that my favorite hunting knife was almost too dull to get the job done. Probably could have done a better job with a rock. What is a good way to sharpen it and how can I tell if it is sharp enough? and don't tell me to drag it across my arm and see if it takes the hair off,i don't want to do anything that will draw blood. thanks for the pointers!!
Sharpen both sides the same amount on a stone . I used to be a meat cutter , & used a Knife sharpening belt sander , that you could set the angle you wanted , I have one at home , but at work , I use a bench belt sander ,& a steel. .
When you hold the knife sharp side facing you , you should not be able to see the edge when its sharp (dull spots will catch the light)...
I use a flat sharpening stone with plenty of oil. I start at the tip of the blade, and slide it down the stone at a slight angle so the whole edge of the blade is passed on every sweep. Slow and steady, don't force the blade, angled just enough so you don't scuff the edge of the blade and change sides frequently.
I was a cook for 24 years in the Coast Guard and I use a tri-stone when a steel is no longer able to hone the blade. Three tubular stones on a rack ranging form very abrasive to very fine. After the final passes on the fine stone, run your blade along a high quality steel a few times and she'll cut like a razor.
I also like the ceramic sharpening sticks / steels.
If it is bad, I start with a saw chain file then I use ceramic sharpening sticks to find hone it. My test is if I can slice a piece of paper , top to bottom, from the edge without causing rips.
I was a cook for 24 years in the Coast Guard and I use a tri-stone when a steel is no longer able to hone the blade. Three tubular stones on a rack ranging form very abrasive to very fine. After the final passes on the fine stone, run your blade along a high quality steel a few times and she'll cut like a razor.
I also like the ceramic sharpening sticks / steels.
Tim
That is what I use. Another good test is to drag the blade across your fingernail with only its own weight on the blade. It will grab the nail if it is sharp. Dull will just slide across. No mistaking the effect.
But i prefer to see if it will shave my arm. No danger of drawing blood unless it is not sharp and you find yourself pushing hard on it to try to cut the hair.
I use a Norton India combination oil stone if it is really dull and the bevel needs to be reshaped.
As almost everyone else has suggested Crock Sticks (ceramic rods set in a base) are a good way to polish up the edge if you are not too proficient, because it sets the angle for you.
I use a dual sided stone; one side really course for laying out the edge and the other for finishing it to sharp. then i take it to a piece of carbon steel rod that i got from a welding shop fourty or fifty laps a side, and finally i drag it backwards over a piece of leather such as my belt....im fairly certain if you do it right you will have a knife sharp enough to get hurt with. as far as testing the knife, i always do exactly what you dont want to and shave my arm. i dont rest on the sharpening until the blade will cut the hair without dragging up the dry skin on my arm.
I started using wet/dry sandpaper with honing oil or cutting oil on a piece of glass. Put some oil down on the glass and lay the sandpaper on it. Put oil on the abrasive surface and sharpen in the conventional way, pushing the blade into the cut. The grit depends on how dull the blade it to begin with, but then I work up to 800 for the finish. It is productive to go even finer but the 800 will be sharp enough to shave your arm. So I don't normally go beyond that except for a block plane blade or a carving tool of some sort. But for a hunting knife, or kitchen knives around my house it's not worth the extra work to go for a super keen edge because they get abused. I often see my wife using a freshly sharpened blade cutting on a ceramic platter or on the granite counter top.
I used to freak about that but no amount of explaining or reminding made any real difference. So in the interest of fighting only battles that matter, I no longer worry about having the keenest blades possible.
I started using wet/dry sandpaper with honing oil or cutting oil on a piece of glass. Put some oil down on the glass and lay the sandpaper on it. Put oil on the abrasive surface and sharpen in the conventional way, pushing the blade into the cut. The grit depends on how dull the blade it to begin with, but then I work up to 800 for the finish. It is productive to go even finer but the 800 will be sharp enough to shave your arm. So I don't normally go beyond that except for a block plane blade or a carving tool of some sort. But for a hunting knife, or kitchen knives around my house it's not worth the extra work to go for a super keen edge because they get abused. I often see my wife using a freshly sharpened blade cutting on a ceramic platter or on the granite counter top.
I used to freak about that but no amount of explaining or reminding made any real difference. So in the interest of fighting only battles that matter, I no longer worry about having the keenest blades possible.
I have a very high dollar 13 piece knife kit that my guys gave me when I retired from the Coast Guard and it sits in it's case hidden from my bride. I watched her abuse a can one time with her Chicago Cutlery kit many years ago and never quite forgot it.
When I was a little kid, I'd sit and watch my Dad use a 'Whet Stone' and 3 -N- 1 oil and work on his pocket knife for what seemed like hours.
He always had the sharpest knife I've ever seen.
I've used everything from 'whet stones' to the Lansky Sharpening System (pretty good, btw!) to Arkansas hard stones, to Crock Sticks.
(And still couldn't put an edge on a knife!!!)
What I've found that puts an edge on a blade very fast (and very sharp) is a 'diamond' stone made by "Buck".
I'd post a link, but, I'm at work, and we have 'Web(non)sense' and won't allow anything that has to do with 'weapons'. Sorry)
This 'stick' has a 'Coarse' side and a 'Fine' side.
With about 6-12 strokes per side, (per 'grit') my knifeblade is sharp enough to take hair off of the back of my hand!
I picked this up at a local "Army/Navy" store. I think it was about $20.00.
I started using wet/dry sandpaper with honing oil or cutting oil on a piece of glass. Put some oil down on the glass and lay the sandpaper on it. Put oil on the abrasive surface and sharpen in the conventional way, pushing the blade into the cut. The grit depends on how dull the blade it to begin with, but then I work up to 800 for the finish. It is productive to go even finer but the 800 will be sharp enough to shave your arm. So I don't normally go beyond that except for a block plane blade or a carving tool of some sort. But for a hunting knife, or kitchen knives around my house it's not worth the extra work to go for a super keen edge because they get abused. I often see my wife using a freshly sharpened blade cutting on a ceramic platter or on the granite counter top.
I used to freak about that but no amount of explaining or reminding made any real difference. So in the interest of fighting only battles that matter, I no longer worry about having the keenest blades possible.
This sounds like a great idea.
.
We have his/her knife sets at home.