1996 Ranger 3.0 V6 distributorless ignition system

My engine is running a little rough and don't have the power and acceleration it use too. I put a timing light on each spark plug wire and #2 did not fire very often. I replaced the wires and now #2 and #3 don't fire at a uniform rate. The truck doesn't run any different and certainly don't feel like it is only running on 4 or 5 cylinders. I've been getting a code P1443 (manufacturer controlled auxillery emission controls). I replaced the hoses going to the charcoal canister but have not replaced the sensor on that line yet.

I am not familiar with distributorless ignitions systems. Does this erratic firing on my timing light appear normal? And does anyone know if this code could be causing it to run rough?

 

Cylinders 3 & 4 are both fire by the same coil.

Check out: Ford DIS/EDIS "Waste Spark" Ignition System

If the EVAP system is malfunctioning, it is possible that it could affect engine performance. Regarding the 1443 code, see: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rol-valve.html

 

They sure don't make them like they use too. Good article Rockledge. I had to print that out and put it in my Haynes book. From the article I assume the waste plug is the week sparks I am getting and that's the way it works.

As far as the P1443, I had cracked hoses from the canister to the purge valve and another one that was an "L shape" somewhere on the engine. I have longer thicker hoses there now (I think it is a power steering hose). The other hose looks ok which leaves the canister and goes into a steel tube in the engine compartment. I didn''t check the steel hose under the truck yet. My next step may be to replace the purge valve. However I have two valves or sensers on the same line leaving the canister. I assume one is a sensor and the other is the purge valve. The gas cap is in good shape and passed the emmisions test for inspection in October. The P1443 trouble light goes off on its own once in a while but comes back on later.

 

If you are getting weak sparks, how is your plug gap? What kind of plugs and wires. It is common for people to have ignition problems with non-OEM ignition parts, even if the parts are new.

 

These coipacks are known to develope harline cracks underneath & develope electrical leakage to ground, so If you still suspect a weak spark on 3 & 4, pull the coilpack for a close visual inspecton.

Most autoparts stores can & will do a no cost coilpack bench test. You could also do a ground plane probe test on the bottom of the coilpack then, to see if you have electrical brakdown.

KanTyranitar is right, our waste spark ignition system works the plugs & wires Twice as hard as the old single coil/distributor ignition system, by firing the plugs on Every rotation of the cankshaft & the passenger side bank of plugs get a reverse polarity spark, so we need Double Platinum replacement plugs to slow sprak gap erosion & a good wire set, desgned to handle the extra workload, thus OEM plugs & wires are a good choice.

So if you aren't using double platinum plugs, or haven't checked plug gap on the passenger side bank of cyl's lately, maybe it's time for a look-see on spark gap.

If you are't using OEM plug wires, maybe consider checking their internal, end to end resistance. They should measure about 2000 ohms per inch of length, 30,000 ohms max, no matter the length.
The spark plugs center electrode end to end resistance should be about 4,000 ohms.

More thoughts for pondering, let us know how it goes.

 

In fact, when i checked my last set of Motorcraft wires, all the wires were approximately the same resistance regardless of length. This is important on a waste spark because excessive resistance on any wire will cause the electricity to try to find an easier path. If you have long wires that are too much higher resistance, you don't get equal energy distribution. It also means some coils will produce more energy than others resulting in slightly uneven ignition across the cylinders. The OEM stuff is very hard to beat, nothing in your auto parts stores, not even the high performance wires and plugs, are meant to handle the output of waste spark systems. The best plugs you can use are OEM equivalents. This basically boils down to Motorcraft double platinum and Autolite double platinum. Autolite is the subcontractor who makes the Motorcraft plugs and wires for the 3.0L and 4.0L.