Hello All,

I have just inherited my recently deceased father's 1992 Ranger with the 2.3 liter engine. He was a Ford Mechanic but got to ill to worry about fixing the Ranger. So, let me begin, the engine dies randomly, (at idle or in gear driving doesn't matter what gear or speed), turning key to off and then to on will allow vehicle to restart every time. No "Check Engine" light has ever lit, I do have an "Antilock" light that comes and goes. The engine codes I keep getting are: 10, 218 and 222.

Code 10 is a computer check code,
Code 218 is "Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal/left side, and
Code 222 is "Distributorless Ignition System - Loss of right side ignition diagnostic monitor (IDM) signal.

These codes were from my Innova reader. I have read where other similar problems were fixed with a new Crankshaft Position Sensor, replaced mine, no change. Another symptom I just noticed is my temp gauge stays near the cool end when it should be higher.

Any help would be appreciated, Thanks

 

Welcome to FTE.

Good trouble shooting with the scantool & posting the trouble codes. Be sure to post All code numbers you come up with, as they can provide good trouble shooting clues.

You may have more than one problem.

10 = Cyl #1 failed the cyl balance test, so if your scantool did the cyl balance test, the computer isn't happy with it. Maybe do a compression check on that cyl.

218 & 222 says the computer also isn't happy with the bank one coilpack, so maybe monitor bank one spark output with an inductive timing light to see if you can catch spark going missing & or check its B+ feed at KOEO while wiggling the wiring harness & electrical connector. Also disconnect the electrical connector & check inside for corrosion, spread sockets & bent pins.

The stall may be a spark, or fuel pressure problem, so set up to monitor fuel pressure at the fuel rail schrader valve test port & maybe set up to monitor pump current draw, to see if you have a pump, or fuel pressure regulator lying down on the job. If you come to suspect the FPR, disconnect its vacuum line to see if its wet inside with fuel, if so replace the FPR.

All that said, I recently ran down a random stall, with immediate restart, problem on my 94 Taurus, that after all of the above monitoring of spark & fuel pressure, turned out to be an ECM/computer problem, that caused fuel pump relay to chatter & randomly come on & continue to run when it shouldn't, electric fan to cycle on when it shouldn't & finally caught spark randomly going missing, which was the final clue that it was likely the ECM, as the ignition module doesn't control the fuel pump, or cooling fan.

Opened it up, but couldn't find any obvious internal component problems, like over heated parts or broken leads or circuit board race, but that puppy had lots of solder splashes under the circuit boards conformal coating & probably 75% of the solder connections looked questionable/cold soldered, too many to try & reheat, so by process of trouble shoot elimination I replaced it with positive results. So keep this in mind on your trouble shoot drill down, if you don't have trouble shooting joy along the way.

A bunch of thoughts for consideration, let us know how your trouble shoot goes.

 

I'd be looking at the power distribution panel for loose connections. I'd also look for loose battery cables and grounds. The ignition module needs power and ground to operate, and some need all the attaching bolts tightened as they use all of them for various grounds. The main relay in the PDB {power distribution box} could also be loose or flaky. You can remove every removable part, and re-seat it to make sure that the contacts are 'fresh' and not corroded. I think there is a relay that is hot in 'run' that powers the computer and ignition system. If that were to fail or flop around, you'd get the symptoms described, just the same as if the ground were going away, which breaks the power circuit.
tom

 

I read codes again and received 218,222 and 224. I also removed the coils and cleaned the contact surfaces then replaced them. Next, I will be going to get some dielectric grease and keep going.

 

OK good, the 224 code says that the computer is unhappy with the bank one coilpack primary circuit, so check that coil pack out.

 

Quote: "A kickback voltage spike occurs when the primary field collapses, creating an Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal which is used by the PCM to keep tabs on the overall health of the ignition system (for more on the IDM, see "System Monitoring" below)."
from: Ford DIS/EDIS "Waste Spark" Ignition System
The 222 and 224 'loss if IDM' codes mean the coils stopped working. No signal 'back emf' from them firing. They stopped, boss.
That is possibly due to several factors, one of which is loss of power to the ECM, or to the ignition system. I reiterate my suggestion to check for loss of power via relays, grounds, and connections.
An additional thing to think of is the actual ignition switch on the steering column. Your truck is old enough to get that old loosey-goosey feeling as the 'ears' that hold the plastic into the switch body can relax and allow the switch to start to come apart. A new one is ~$10, FWIW, but may be hard to remove.
Try holding the ignition key 'Just Past Run', or wiggle it a tiny bit with the engine idling. Mine got so bad, I'd start the truck, let go the switch, and it would turn off. Found that holding the key 'just so' would let the engine continue to run. I took mine out, cleaned it, and re-crimmped the 'ears'. It lasted for a couple years, but the tension of the wiring harness kept trying to pull the switch apart. I gave up and bought a new switch.
As noted in another post, I filed 'flats' in opposite sides of the bolts retaining the switch, as they are 'break off' bolts without hex heads. I used a small {micro} vise-grips to break the bolts free, and replace them with normal bolts, IIRC.
tom

 

Listen up to what tomw has posted, as he's had plenty of hands on expierence!!!!

 

Thanks Tomw, I have tried wiggling key with no luck, once I managed to wiggle it to the off position though and thought I found the culprit until I realized how far it had moved. I found rust between the coils and the bracket, cleaned off both and also tested coil packs with an ohm meter and found them to be within specs. Last night, I drove to work and it only died while stopped waiting for a light at Idle, and I even felt it miss slightly just before it died.

Keep sending me ideas as you guys think of them, I don't have a lot of experience when it comes to cars, I do have experience as an Electrician with electronics training.

 

The IAC is responsible for maintaining idle speed, so that may be the reason for stalls when at idle. Maybe remove & clean it with a plastic safe spray like CRC or Valvolene MAF spray cleaner & see if it helps. Cleaning may not last, it didn't for me on my 99 Ranger, but was a good trouble shooting step.

 

I went ahead and ran a ground wire to ICM and it still died, replaced the Ecm relay, test drove it, no death while driving. Next day, died twice. Today, died 5 times on way to work, at idle and while accelerating, on the way home, it didn't die once. If one coil is faulty would I see a difference if I swapped them? I checked them with an ohm meter and they were within tolerances.

Also, what is the difference between Standard Motor Performance T-series and higher priced non t-series line? How bad can their products be, they warranty them for 5yr/50000miles and Motorcraft only warranties theirs for 12months/12000miles?

 

Does it stumble a bit before it dies or is it just Poof! Off! with no preliminary 'notice'? The former could point to a fuel problem and the latter points more towards ignition shutoff, caused by bad wires, bad grounds, loose connections, etc. FWIW, you could check the + side of the starter relay to make sure all the connections are tight. One wire from there feeds a pile of things via the fuse box or power distribution box depending on year. It would not hurt to check the fusible links for any damage, and check the engine ground wire(S). There should be a large one to the chassis I think, and likely a smaller one to the firewall. You need them to allow the juice to flow back to the battery {or actually the other way around???} and complete the circuit.
So, if it stumbles at all, look at fuel supply, even the fuel pump relay, pump, pickup or filter. It may have been mentioned before, and I'm too lazy to scroll up and read the whole thing again...
tom

 

I don't know about the Standard parts.

You have trouble codes that say the computer is unhappy with the bank-1 coiolpack, so focus your running & idle stall trouble shoot there.

It seems to me you have an interrupted B+ feed from the computer to the coilpack/s OR a computer coilpack ground switching problem. So carefully check your coilpacks & computer firewall electrical connectors pins & socket connections & the wiring insulation between the computers firewall connector & the coilpacks for damage, corrosion, loose fit, ect.

The random stalls with immediate restarts, (but I had no set trouble codes) is exactlly how my 94 Taurus was acting last year. Finally caught spark randomally going missing on that puppy, along with other electricals acting out that only the computer controlled, so spark going missing, along with other computer only controlled/caused electrical mischief, finally made me suspect an ECM/Computer problem, replaced that puppy & all has been well since. So if you have a friend with a like Ranger, or can come by a computer to try, or an inexpensive like one from a salvage yard Ranger that'll run, maybe try a swap & see how it goes.

So, keep an open mind, do a good drill down process of elimination trouble shoot, before throwing parts at the problem & keep us posted.

 

This Monday or Tuesday I will be taking my ICM in to be tested. Yesterday, my Ranger died 5 times to work and 3 times on the way home. This mornings travel to work, didn't die once. I have noticed a really small missfire feel to the engine just before it stalls, no sound or feel like it is running out of fuel. If my ICM is good I'll look at the ECM. thanks for your input, still looking.

 

I found two bad Plug wires, still not the problem. The problem is each of the coils had a bad output. replaced the coils and now no engine codes and truck doesn't die anymore

 

congrats and thanks for letting us know.