I started my rear spring conversion today. All was going well until I couldn't get the tie-bolt to align in the block. It's only off by about 3/8" and I am wondering if I just need to apply more persuasion (a come-along) to get it right. The old springs and new springs are about 3/8" different when measured from the front bracket hole to the tie-bolt.

Thoughts anybody?

Steve

 

I had same problem last night. I put a slight upward pressure on the axle against the bottom of new spring and block. Then I pulled mightily on the axle until it popped the tie bolt into the hole in the block.

A come-a-long would have been handy. I'm pretty sore now after doing this and trying to meet the torque specs on the spring hanger bolts.

 

Yep, that is what the come along is for. Give it all the 'persuasion' you can!

Bion

 

i found a set of X-Code springs very cheap, i'm gonna pick them up.

does anyone have a for sure part number on the 3.5" tapered block and correct u bolts? there was so any part numbers i kinda got confused..

thanks guys!!

 

Left side 3.5" tapered block: Part #F81Z-5598-FA
Right side 3.5" tapered block Part #F81Z-5598-GA

Stewart

 

Parts guy Ed was quick and helpful when I requested my #'s and $'s.
Look for the link (Y2KFord parts) on one of his posts.

 

bookmarked and b back l8er,i need more info, :-)

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Welcome to FTE.

Here is all the info you will need. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/789595-attn-dup-steering-wander-search-results-for-you.html

Tons of reading, but it's full of all the information you'd be interested in.

Just a quick note, since these are forums and not cell phones, it's preferable to type out the words and not use the text/IM style of abbreviations.

Stewart

 

I've got my complete V (front) and B (rear) spring installation completed. I used brand new factory springs, U-bolts, and the 3.5" tapered block recommended by Stewart. Here are before and after suspension measurements:

Before LF: 37.4"
Before RF: 37.9"
Before LR: 38.9"
Before RR: 39.3"

Note that the entire truck was lower on left (driver) side by 0.5".

After LF: 39.1" (+1.7")
After RF: 39.0" (+1.1")
After LR: 41.9" (+3.0")
After RR: 41.8" (+2.5")

Note that the "left lean" of the truck was removed when these new springs were installed.

All of these measurements (before / after) were made with only 1/4 tank of fuel (rear end was lighter by 200 lb than with full tank).

I am a little surprised at the amount of lift in the rear suspension. The factory "rake" BEFORE the new springs was an increase of about 1.4 - 1.5" front-to-back. Now, the AFTER "rake" is about 2.8". Interestingly, if I had kept the original 2" Excursion level block, this "rake" would have been about 1.3"--very close to original.

Here are two pictures of the truck with V,B codes installed. It still clears the garage door with 0.7" to spare!

Actually, I started out with the intention of installing RAS springs on the rear "B" codes. I went as far as installing everything and setting the truck back on the garage floor. It was the canoe in the basement--the only way I could have gotten it out of the garage would have been to deflate the rear tires! I measured the height with "B" and RAS springs:

LR = RR = 43.0". The RAS coils seem to raise the rear of the truck an additional 1.1 - 1.2" when installed on the "B" code springs.

My thinking is that the RAS will be necessary when I'm towing our big travel trailer. The V,B codes ride great, but there may be a bit too much suspension travel in the rear now and truck may squat too much with the trailer hitched.

So...I'm thinking I may return to the 2" Excursion block between the "B" code spring and axle. This would lower the rear by about 1.5". Then, if I install the RAS on the B codes again, I will regain about 1.1" of this. The finished height of rear of truck will end up about 0.4" lower than at present and total rake will be about 2.4" instead of 2.8".

Does anyone out there have experience with B code rear springs with RAS installed?

 

Forest looks awesome

Just for comparison my after measurements with X-springs front and only F350 block in the back is

39.50 Front
40.50 Rear

with 265/75r16s @ 65 psi

I am still debating whether or not to go with air bags or the RAS in the rear. I need to hook up the trailer with the jeep on it to see how much it squats in the rear. Good to know though that the RAS raises the rear a little over one inch and I guess due to softness of the stock rear springs this doesn't effect the ride quality much? Wonder how stiff it will make the rear with the B code rear springs? Hopefully someone responds to your question or you can report back.

 

rkik--

Thanks. Actually, "Forest" is the 2003 Excursion. Kids named it because it was green (Aspen Green), aka Forest. This one the kids are calling "Midas". Don't know what I'm going to do about my handle, though.

What you are thinking about doing--adding RAS to stock springs on top of F350 block may make a lot of sense. I can tell you that the B code springs seem to have a lot more travel (flex) when driving over potholes and heaves--I like this as it seems to ride better. On my 2003, I kept original springs (and 2" block), but added radius rods and air bags. It was very stable for towing, but pretty darn stiff in day-to-day driving.

I've got to try out this setup with our big trailer before deciding if there is another step in the upgrade of Midas' suspension.

 

thank you so much!!!

i'm going to get the springs from the guy this weekend and blocks/ubolts when i can get down to the dealer. we get a great deal localy thru our company so i'll go that route.

i cant wait to have her sitting where it should have and riding like it should have from the factory.

now i'll have to get some new summer tires for the 20s..some nice A/Ts

 

Forest & rkik - I am getting ready to perform this spring upgrade myself but I am also in need of new tires. Are you staying with the 265/75r16s or going up one to the 285/75r16s? Our Ex is driven daily and I am going to be towing our 23 ft toy hauler (est. 8800lbs loaded). I am trying to determine how much of an effect of going up one size tire is going to have. Our Ex is a V10 with 4.30 gears.

Forest - Thank you for sharing your pics. They allowed me to show my wife what it will look like with the V/B springs.

 

I am stepping up to 285/75r17s along with some 17x8 wheels ... should get them installed tomorrow .

 

tacoma -

Thanks. Sorry I could not answer earlier. Seems like the website had some troubles (?).

rkik and tacoma - I am wondering about bigger wheels/tires myself. My wife even said "aren't those tires too small?"

My biggest concern about changing tire diameter is changing the effective gear ratio. If you are towing heavy, you need to see how well your truck handles the load at the typical speeds you want to go. For me, I like to tow at 70 mph, and that is where the 6.0 is cruising in top gear right at the peak of the torque curve--2000 RPM. If I put bigger (taller) tires on the truck, I'm afraid I'll have to downshift to keep torque peak.

Also, I have no real garage door clearance left. 3/4" is what I have now--without the luggage bars. Taller tires would lift this truck even more.