The 3.5-4 in blocks on the back add 2", and we are getting that much extra lift in the back. Leave them out and it will be even front to back, but with the wheel well cut outs the way they are, it might just look different but measure the same. The u bolts being torque to yield would mean having to take them off again tho.

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Posting this link because this thread is getting a lot of hits and posts and if anyone searching for info in the future pulls up this thread, the compiled spring/suspension information in this link will help.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...s-for-you.html

Stewart

 

and when in doubt


i'm your huckleberry!




lol


ed

 

I am going to tackle this job over the weekend.

Got a couple questions:

Where are the four bolts located to remove the front bumper? I looked thru other posts but none are real clear with regard to photos.

and

I received these U-Bolts:

Front: F81Z*5705*ZA
Rear: *N811667*S436

Will those rears work? Whats the difference?

 

I put the front v springs on my 05 and left the back stock and it does not ride high in the front, almost level if not still 1/2 inch or inch higher in the rear. I think I am going to leave it that way and just install some airbags in the rear for the occasional tow.

 

I don't want to second-guess you, but, the main reason that I put on the V AND B code springs was to improve three (3) things:

1) Reduce steering wander.
2) Increase suspension travel in both front and rear.
3) Increase load capacity in the rear for towing heavy.

I think you are only going to get about 1.5 out of 3 with the V codes only. My opinion is that the original "G code" rear spring with strange spongy traction bar is part of the steering wander problem (due to rear axle wrap) AND the rear axle does not have enough suspension travel / squat resistance when towing.

On my 2003, I used air bags and Hellwig, but did not resolve the steering wander until I put on LANDYOTs radius rods. The radius rods really worked (to stop steering wander), but I had a pretty harsh ride when driving unloaded. My guess is that I restricted spring flex with the radius rods and effectively increased the spring constant without increasing spring travel.

On the other hand, you might get what you want by doing the V codes front along with RAS on stock "G" codes rear. The RAS lifts the rear only about 1" and provides more spring constant when loaded with a trailer without sacrificing spring travel. The RAS also minimize axle wrap.

You might want to see if your steering wander issue is really improved before deciding the upgrade is finished.

 

I'm like you bro, pictures help a TON whenever doing something like this for the first time. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures for you, but rest assured, I can guarantee once you look for the bolts, it's very intuitive which ones they are, and they are easy to locate.

I stared at my bumper for a quick minute, looking at both side (drivers and passengers) and figured out which one's I needed to unbolt fairly quickly.

Stewart

 

Forest, when do you get the steering wander? I don't seem to get any. All I wanted to do is raise the front end and improve the ride, which so far it has. I will probably keep the rear springs around and on a rainy day just slip them in there, we'll see.

 

i dont tow at all, it will never see a trailer in the time i own it. currently i dont have much of a wonder issue.

with that in mind, i think i'l throw the x code springs in the front leave the rear stock and see what happends ride/wonder wise.

 

I'm curious about this too. I think (hope) he meant "D" for the rears. I will be installing rear springs off of a 2005 F-250 and on the door sticker on the truck, the spring code was "DD". So I'm assuming those are D-code springs, same as Snuffy2000 used???

 

Ok so can anyone tell me what the difference is between these two:

Rear U Bolts:
*N811667*S436 and N803770S436

Ed?

 

N811667S436 M16X2.0 X 108/320

N803770S436 M16X2.0 X 108/343


LENGTH OF U-BOLT IS THE DIFF!

ED

 

Thanks Ed! So it looks like the one I got will work with 3.5" blocks...I hope!

 

I put the V codes on my X in the spring. When I did, the X set almost pefectly level, but to me looked nose high. I added tapered blocks to the rear and got the stance back to stock but the whole thing is about 2 inches taller. Worked out perfect for me. It towed my Mustang on an open car trailer just fine, but with more squat than I wanted. As far as removing the front bumper, I did not do it and did the front springs in about 2 hours. The front spring bolts had to be heated to release the loctite and I used a ratchet to get them out. The rear spring bolts came out with an impact and no heat.

 

you are welcome.

if you got them from me I would guarantee it!

did you?

lol


ed