I have an '02 f250, 4x4, v10. Here is the order of failures that I've experienced. About 2 months ago, I went to use my cruise control, and it didn't work at all, little green light didn't even come on on the dash. Fast forward to late last week, I'm sitting at a diner having breakfast with my Dad and I see my truck's headlights are on ....very strange since I always keep them on the "auto" setting ( it's a Lariat) . I go out to investigate, while I'm walking towards the truck, the headlights go off on their own. I open the door, look at the switch, it's where I always have it, in "auto". Just then, I notice smoke coming out from under the hood, open the hood and the smoke is coming from the dreaded cc deactivation switch. I disonnected the wire to the switch right there in the parking lot. Next, I got in the truck, started it, and tried to put it in reverse, shift lever wouldn't move. I disconnected the solenoid under the dash, so now I don't need to have my foot on the brake to take it out of park. I take the truck to the local stealership and have them do the recall....they just put a new harness on, when I question them, they said the switch wasn't leaking, well, they changed their mind when I told them what had happened. Anyway, the recall is done, new switch and harness, but the cruise control still doesn't work. The brake lights work ,and so does the horn, any ideas of what the problem could be ? Could the switch that's mounted to the brake pedal be causing the cruise not to work, and the truck not coming out of park if that solenoid was re-connected ? Am I looking at two very coincidental problems at once ? Thanks for any input.

 

I have not experienced these problems before, although I had a problem on my wife's old van (Chrysler). It turned out to be the clockspring in the steering column that was the culprit for her cruise control problem.

I have also had intermittent electrical problems that have stymied me in the past. One of the problems was that there was a cable that rubbed on the upper portion of the brake pedal arm (under the dash where I could not see it). I don't remember what it was that kept blowing fuses, but I eventually was doing work under there and noticed a chafed wire from all of the years of rubbing.

I am by no means inferring that either one of these issues is causing your problems. Hopefully this gives you some ideas of what to do and maybe jogs somebody else's memory to throw their 2 cents into the ring too.

At the very least it's a bump for you.

Best of luck!

 

check this post out i been trying to help theese guys out i had a problem with the cc switch and cc module.........https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ng-though.html

 

twall, I read that post before I made another one. I guess what I'm wondering is, could the switch mounted on the brake pedal ( I believe it's called the brake deactivation switch" be the sole culprit of the cc not working AND the truck not coming out of park without having the solenoid disconnected ? My reasoning is that I'm willing to spend the money on the switch on the brake pedal if that fixes the cc, but I'm not gonna spend the $300 or so for a new cc module if that's the culprit. I can live with not needing to depress the brake pedal to get it out of park ( in fact, I almost prefer it), it's kinda like the good ole days !!!!....lol

Thanks

 

The headlight thing is confusing. Are you sure it wasn't just the headlight delay? That delay is adjustable for up to 2 minutes.

But on the other things, brake pedal switch is a possibility. That thing has a bunch of wires for different functions. But it's pretty cheap to buy one and try it:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0

The multi-function switch is another common culprit, but the symptoms don't really make sense on that one.

 

Bill, I'm 99.9% sure that the headlights coming on and then back off was a direct result from whatever was going on at that time. Between the headlights going on and off at least once....and the truck not coming out of park right after I had to disconnect the cc deactivation switch at the master cylinder because it was literally smoking and the fact that my brake lights still work has me kinda baffled. Thanks for that link for the brake pedal switch. Like I said before, I don't mind getting that switch if it fixes the cc issue, but I don't think I'm willing to spend the money on the cc module for how much I really use hte cc.

Thanks

P.S. I'm going to be away for a few days w/o internet...I'll be sure to check this thread as soon as I can when I get back.

 

well....I replaced the switch on the brake pedal, and that wasn't the problem, still no cruise. I found a "self diagnostic" test that I ran on the cruise and I got what I believe are 2 extra flashes of the cruise light on the dash at the end of the test. It appears that the light flashed immediately as to respond to my pressing the set/accel button, then I got 2 more flashes of the cruise control light. From what I've been able to read, the 2 flashes means " BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or
jumper (if equipped) is defective".....what exactly does this mean and what would be the next logical thing to try ? Thanks in advance guys.

 

I was surprised by the timing of this thread. Last week, one of the 2000 service trucks suddenly activated its horn. While parked. Not running. No remote / alarm anything. Just horn. For no reason.

Pulled the wire.

A couple days later, cruise control deactivates on freeway. And will not return.

Are there any wiring-related recalls applicable to early SD trucks?

-mike

 

Mschultz, I have heard others speak about the wiring harness in the steering column wearing through and grounding out, do a search on that.

 

I got the horn honking until the fuse blew and a week later, the cruise quit. Has anybody found the fix? Mine is an F-250 2002 model. Thanks.