Cruise control deactivation switch
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Cruise control deactivation switch
I have a 1995 motorhome with a Ford Chassis and 460 engine. The cruise control is not working. The horn and brake lights are operational. The recall has been done also. When the engine is on and it is in park the deactivation switch has power on both sides. I cannot find a wiring diagram for this but I would think that the switch should be open unless the brake pedal is depressed. When I depress the pedal nothing changes, still hot on both sides. I have unplugged the switch and test drove it but it still doesn't work. I was hoping it might work since when disconnected the harness is hot on one side and not the other. Does anyone know if the switch is supposed to be hot on both sides when in park? Any suggestions on what to try next?
thanks in advance for any replies!
thanks in advance for any replies!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kentucky
The brake pressure switch is a redundant safety which should open when the brakes are applied. Sounds like yours is faulty. The primary cruise control deactivation switch is the Brake On-Off (BOO ) Switch. It is located at the base of the steering column.
This diagram may help:
This diagram may help:
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Thanks for your reply. That diagram is a huge help!
It does sound like my press switch is faulty, but at the same time it doesn't sound like it should prevent it from working, just not turning off. It sounds like I need to find the boo switch and make sure it is working correctly and if so I need to check to make sure the servo isn't locked up. Any other suggestions?
It does sound like my press switch is faulty, but at the same time it doesn't sound like it should prevent it from working, just not turning off. It sounds like I need to find the boo switch and make sure it is working correctly and if so I need to check to make sure the servo isn't locked up. Any other suggestions?
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
The recall pressure switch must supply power to the speed control servo module or the speed control will not work. Unplugging it will prevent the speed control from working.
By the way almost 90% of the time the only thing wrong with the speed control is dirty brushes on an F53. You need to clean the brushes and it will more than likely work OK.
I take it you do have an F53, if not let us know what you have as my diagram above may be wrong also.
By the way almost 90% of the time the only thing wrong with the speed control is dirty brushes on an F53. You need to clean the brushes and it will more than likely work OK.
I take it you do have an F53, if not let us know what you have as my diagram above may be wrong also.
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
Clean the Brushes:
And the Ring Assy:
Switch Assy. showing plug C232:
Brush wiring speed control:
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Last edited by subford; May 26, 2026 at 08:35 AM.
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I checked the brushes, they were very clean with clean grease on them, but I cleaned them anyways. I found that I get varying voltage from the lb/blk wire when I push the on button. The voltage is between 6and 10 volts. Should I have a solid 12 volts from that wire at the module?
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Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
Yes you should have battery voltage on the light blue black strip wire #151.
Check the voltage leaving the horn relay to see if it stays at battery voltage when the on switch is pushed.
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Check the voltage leaving the horn relay to see if it stays at battery voltage when the on switch is pushed.
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Last edited by subford; May 26, 2026 at 08:36 AM.
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I will check the voltage from horn relay tomorrow. I just found that I get 6.5 volts from the blue/blk #151 wire when the steering wheel is off. It is like it is back feeding voltage from the servo module somehow. Could that mean a faulty module?
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
I do not know about the feed back voltage.
But if you email me your email address I will email you a series of tests in PDF format (Test "A" pinpoints).
My email address is at the bottom of this post.
But if you email me your email address I will email you a series of tests in PDF format (Test "A" pinpoints).
My email address is at the bottom of this post.
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I went through the troubleshooting flow chart from all data and everything checked out until I got to the step where it says to replace the speedometer/odometer program module and retest. It appears that this module is part of the instrument cluster? Has anyone else had a defective cluster cause the cruise to be inop?
