Tank Type engine heaters
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
Tank Type engine heaters
This question might seem odd, but does anyone know if these will run on DC as well as AC?
Zerostart 1000 watt engine block heater tractor truck:eBay Motors (item 230388402806 end time Nov-13-09 12:07:17 PST)
The thermostat and heater element won't care, but I'm not sure about the circulation motor (EDIT: Do they even have one????).
I've found some that list AC/DC, but not all say that and I'm curious.
Zerostart 1000 watt engine block heater tractor truck:eBay Motors (item 230388402806 end time Nov-13-09 12:07:17 PST)
The thermostat and heater element won't care, but I'm not sure about the circulation motor (EDIT: Do they even have one????).
I've found some that list AC/DC, but not all say that and I'm curious.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
I only found out about these last night so I know next to nothing about them. Convection alone won't be enough for what I need.
Figured it was too good to be true.
Well if anyone knows of something that will work well on 120-200 VDC including the stat, please chime in.
Figured it was too good to be true.
Well if anyone knows of something that will work well on 120-200 VDC including the stat, please chime in.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Would this be any better?
Webasto's DBW 2010 Heating System
http://www.webasto.us/press/en/am_tr...aters_821.html
The bottom one is smaller.
Webasto's DBW 2010 Heating System
http://www.webasto.us/press/en/am_tr...aters_821.html
The bottom one is smaller.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Marianna, Florida USA
The Zerostart units use percolation to circulate the fluid. There’s a marble that acts as a one way valve to keep the fluid moving in the right direction. Kim Hotstart uses a similar technique except they use a flapper valve. It should work fine as long as you are reasonable I your expectations.
Elder User
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From: Marianna, Florida USA
As far as the temperature is concerned, The thermostat is a switch that doesn't care what the voltage is doing.
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Recently, when I inquired locally about a Hotstart, I was told those were recalled because they were starting fires in vehicles. Now, I don't know if there's a bit of fact to it, but the local parts store was not selling them anymore. May be something to look into. I never gave it a second thought until right now.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
Those are a little big (and pricy) for what I need, Dave. But that is the basic idea.
I heard that AC switches can be fused in the on position if they are used with DC. Some on on another forum warned me about that and advised me to run a 12V relay to the thermostat and run the higher DC voltage from the relay to the heater element. More complicated, but safer in theory. I'm hoping I won't have to do that but not sure at this point.
Do you know what sort of flow rates could be expected from the heater without having to add an auxiliary pump? I figure I need at least 2 LPM and will only go through a heater core. The thermostat would also be cycling fairly often because the total fluid amount being heated won't be much. Just the core and pipes, with the heater being as close to the core as possible.
I heard that AC switches can be fused in the on position if they are used with DC. Some on on another forum warned me about that and advised me to run a 12V relay to the thermostat and run the higher DC voltage from the relay to the heater element. More complicated, but safer in theory. I'm hoping I won't have to do that but not sure at this point.
Do you know what sort of flow rates could be expected from the heater without having to add an auxiliary pump? I figure I need at least 2 LPM and will only go through a heater core. The thermostat would also be cycling fairly often because the total fluid amount being heated won't be much. Just the core and pipes, with the heater being as close to the core as possible.
Elder User
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From: Marianna, Florida USA
A relay can control the heater, but the internal switch is the problem. Actually, I don't think the AC/DC current is relevent. The amount is. Asfar as the flow rate is concerne3d, the power input is the determinig factor. 1 KW = 3415 BTU. 1BTU = 1 pound of water raised 1 degree F. The system functions by boiling water, so the output temperature will be 212 F. Assuming you will be operating with 70 F. 142F differemce. 3415 BTU/142 F =24 Pounds per hour ~ 2.88GPH or 0.048 GPM. A ceramic heater in about the same power range would be cheaper to buy and adapt a DC fan to operate it. Just a suggestion,
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Lead Driver
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
My idea was to feed 12V to the internal switch, then use that to energize the relay for the actual heating element. There will be easy access to both voltage ranges.
I thought about using a ceramic heater, but those don't work as well from what I'm told. Ceramic heaters are also a bit more of a fire hazard since the surface temperature of the element is higher than on a hot water tank.
I'm tempted to try it and add a pump if needed later on.
Still a ways off before I need to deal with this. I was mainly wondering if a tank type engine heater can run ~120 DC volts.
I thought about using a ceramic heater, but those don't work as well from what I'm told. Ceramic heaters are also a bit more of a fire hazard since the surface temperature of the element is higher than on a hot water tank.
I'm tempted to try it and add a pump if needed later on.
Still a ways off before I need to deal with this. I was mainly wondering if a tank type engine heater can run ~120 DC volts.
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: ontario can
I bought one of those tank type heaters, never used it yet ,one end splices heater hose the other end in the block drain plug where ever thats supposed to be? I had years ago a type that spliced in the heater line which worked good.
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