Hey Gang,

I'm new to this forum and look forward to learning a lot about my SD.

I did a search and couldn't find much - if anything - about adding power inverters. Has anyone done this in a manner that allows for a permanent (or semi-permanent) installation with remote outlets located in the bed area?

Basically, I'm being lazy and don't want to have to store the inverter and hook it up via pigtails at the battery everytime I want or need it.

Thanks,
D

2006 F250 SD
6.0 Diesel

 

Well... I installed one behind the seat in my reg cab on top of a custom box thats housing my cd changer. From there I left one outlet open that will be for an extension cord to go through the rear window and the other outlet is going to a surge strip in between seat frames on the floor. If you look in the articles/specs section on the top link bar, I believe there was a write up about adding a large inverter to the bed in a toolbox.

EDIT: Here's the article I was talking about Adding 120V AC Power To a Truck Bed

Also... I think its TNT in RoundRock... could be mistaken... that has a pretty nice inverter setup in his truck.

 

There were several posts a couple years back. Sorry don 't know what the thread name was.

In general you will need a heavy power lead and good ground for a large inverter. Figure your average battery is capable of supplying maybe 10-30 amps on a steady but short basis. 12volts times 20Amps means you get 240 watts. I.E. not much power. You can drive a bigger inverter if the engine is running or for very short times on battery alone. Not sure on our trucks but the average alternator can supply maybe 100amps more or less, so you could theoretically run a 1000watt inverter for awhile. You will need really beeg wires to the battery connection, and some sort of circuit breaker/fuse.

Volts x Amps = Watts. So those 1000watt inverters are really going to suck the battery down or melt wires. A few hundred watts is probably pretty safe and won't drain the electrical system too fast. I use a 400 watt inverter from time to time and you would be surprised how quick the "low battery" warning comes on when you have a heavy load with engine off.

You could buy yourself some AC outlets and install them in a tool box or home built cabinet. Make sure they are water proof and properly grounded, maybe even a Ground Fault Interrupter. You don't want 120v AC floating around your truck bed for someone to touch. I am not sure if even properly grounded it would be safe for someone on the outside of the truck touching the outlet.

Make sure any wiring is very well protected against rubbing on sheet metal where it passes thru. Don't want to cut thru and create a short.

I think some of the hardware stores have outside junction boxes that are water safe etc. May be safer to wire one of those to the inverter.

Probably safer to do like the other guy recommended, install inverter in the cabin and use an extention only when needed.

The risk of personal injury is pretty high if you have AC power exposed to people. Also good chance of draining the electrical system or damaging it, if you pull too much power or short it.

Think conservative unless you have someone who is an expert on such systems help you out. Some of the High power stereo guys probably know how to do it right.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

Good things to consider. Thanks.

I hadn't considered the short to the bed electrifying everything! See, part of that lazy thing is because I don't really understand electricity, (therefore, it scares the sheet out of me), and I don't like to fool with it meaning I don't want to have to do the hook-up... well, you get the idea.

I would have whatever I do installed by a pro.

D.

 

If it were me, and I am probably going to do it in the near future as I already have most of the parts like the battery isolator...

I'd install a second battery, most likely a deep cycle (or two), with a battery isolator, to run the inverter from. I'm looking at something from 2400watts and upwards. At 12V, with a theoretically 100% efficient conversion, that's 200 amps of pure 12V required to run the thing at full draw. Probably more like 300 amps in the "real world".

The engine's alternator will not come near that unless I'm running the engine over 3000RPMs, and even then, it's only rated 130 amps and probably really puts out less than 100 when it's hot.

Anyway, unless you want to risk running your main batteries down to dead, even WITH the engine running, I'd add another battery and use that to feed the inverter.

Let us know what you actually come up with as a solution

 

I'm at the point where I'm just frustrated That comes from my fear of electricity and trying to get a handle on this.

I called my brother who is an electrician and heavy equipment mechanic/sales guy and explained what I wanted and he made me feel like an idiot! Gotta love brothers. He and I are going to get together in the very near future to "edumacate" me and develop a solution.

As soon as I come up with a solution, I'm happy to share.

 

Read the tech article dew the thunder posted. It is an excellent solution if not a bit of over kill. Read all four parts to at least get some ideas on what you would like to do.

 

I installed a 3000 watt in my cab, not the bed. Never had any problems running 15amp grinders, saws, compressors, etc. Never blown a fuse. Power and ground run to the driver side battery. Fuses are 2 x 250A for 500A. Plenty for running some pretty robust power tools with the engine running and the BCP wire on upfitter 3 to boost RPMs if needed.

I use an extension cord and run it under the seat and out the rear doors. It has been installed for a year and a half and gets used just about weekly. I have an aftermakret voltmeter to monitor the electrical system and I have had zero issues so far. There is a thread somewhere with my pics.

Install it and be free. AC power anywhere.

 

Corded AC power tools dominate cordless tools and I was never able to finish a job with battery powered tools. Price to power is much better for corded tools. To me it has really made a difference in my business.

 

Can you mount them under the hood or is water and heat an issue. I would like to add one to mine but would like it outside.

 

I haven't completely decided on battery setup for running my inverter yet.

Main reason I installed one is for the drive in movies. Regular cab truck doesn't make too well for relaxin in a drive in movie and I never had an interest in putting any subs in my truck. Gonna put my Onkyo receiver and MTX 12" dj speakers in the bed and just hang out back there whenever I go to the drive in.

My options were to just buy another battery and hook it up when I go to the drive in, Buy a jump pack, Or buy a jump pack and install an Optima Yellow Top for deep cycling. Whats the best out of those options?

 

When you buy an inverter the cables it comes with are only like 2 feet long with alligator style ends. Just clamp that baby on the battery whenever you wanna use it if your worried about a permanent installation under the hood.

 

My limited understanding is you can purchase a marine grade inverter if you are willing to spring the bucks OR you can make the connection wires longer if you use the proper gauge and install it in the cab area.

Not sure of the proper gauge, but I'm sure someone here will.

 

If you want to be real serious about AC power you can run one of these off the PTO.
Real Power - Turn Your Truck Into a Mobile Power Station

 

Tazo, that looks perfect... but I'll bet it's a little out of my price range. But, I've already called the local dealer to find out!