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Engine Install Start Up Questions!

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  #1  
Old 10-04-2009, 12:26 AM
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Engine Install Start Up Questions!

Alright, small chance I may turn the key on the "new" engine tomorrow and I want to run everything through the forum first. What all should I do before turning the key?

I have turned the engine over several times via hand with the glow plugs out and since I buttoned it all up I have done it another handful of times and it seems I got all the old oil out of the cylinders from the injector swap.

Oil filter is on, and plug is tight.
Need to add more oil and fill up HPOP resevoir.
Distilled water top off on primary run to check for leaks.
I filled up the oil rails with oil to help get the pressure up on fire up.
My harness is all plugged up but the AIH relay isnt hooked up since I don't have one. (Boost gauge)



Both of my batteries are completely dead, how do I jump start this truck? Can I hook up a friends car to one battery and let it charge both up or do I need to charge up each battery?

How long can I run the truck on water? Obviously the weather is cold here but could I run the engine for an hour or two on water so that I can get down to a auto parts store for ELC?

What perfectly round gasket goes near the turbo? I stored my turbo in a box and just today I found a round gasket in the box but I can't tell if its from this turbo or the one I pulled off the OBS engine.

Thats all I can think of right now. I may ask more questions when I get up tomorrow.

Wish me luck folks. I can't handle a failure.
 
  #2  
Old 10-04-2009, 12:49 AM
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a car will take a longgg time to charge the batteries, a battery charger is best bet, after my injector install i used my cousins psd and that even took awhile and ended up putting dads trail blazer on the other battery.

you can run it on water for an hour or 2. its not cold enough to instantly freeze. i dont know much about Alaska but is it already below freezing there?

i never f'd with a stock setup turbo, i know stock up-pipe collectors are round, but idk if it has a gasket or gasketless.

The rest sounds like you have her all ready to go.

BTW - idk your story, havnt read to much on here latley, if you put a new engine is chances are you pulled ps line, top of ps reservoir and trans fluid from removing the cooler lines....if you had to pull your old engine....
 
  #3  
Old 10-04-2009, 11:23 AM
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There is a big o-ring that goes on the turbo at the spider connection. If it is a small o-ring, it may be one of the pedestal o-rings. Good luck.
 
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Old 10-04-2009, 11:33 AM
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Can you post a pic of the O-ring in question with something to show its size?

I just swapped out injectors, and I cranked mine with the starter with the GPs removed to purge the oil & fuel out of the cylinders. But hand cranking works too.

And like has already been said, you can run it for a while with just water. I'm not sure how you'd get a battery charger to work in middle of nowhere. You can just use your buddy's car. All lights and unnecessary accessories should be off (like lights, radio, blower fan, etc.). When my batts got weak, I used my wife's gasser truck to jump mine. Worked fine.
 
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Old 10-04-2009, 01:48 PM
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Your comment about using only water worries me if the temps are near freezing. If it is that cold, put some cardboard in front of the radiator before running the engine. The air flowing through the radiator will cool the coolant enough to freeze it if the temp is near 32*. I found this out the hard way...... Considering all the hard work you have done to get to this point, why not add a gallon of the correct antifreeze to the water for your initial start to check for leaks. If everything is ok, you can drain out half, add antifreeze and be good to go. If you have a leak that you need to fix, adding a gallon won't have cost that much compared to freezing the radiator and having to replace that too. I thought that the warm water coming from the engine would be enough to keep the water from freezing but it wasn't and caused a radiator repair job.

Glad to hear that you are this close to success. The suspense is getting more intense........
 
  #6  
Old 10-04-2009, 03:52 PM
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Thanks for the replies. The o-ring is about the size of the turbo inlet so I will take off the spider and put her on.

We are seeing 20s at night here but during the day we are in the 40s.

The reason I can't just grab antifreeze is because there isn't a place to get some. I think I have a gallon of my ELC that I will throw in before driving to Wasilla and buying more of the stuff.

I will check the level on the trans since I did unhook the cooler lines. However, I did not unhook the PS pump.

Being low on trans fluid will be a problem since I can't drive to go get more and I don't know what fluid is currently in there. The trans was installed about 3 years ago by a Ford dealership, but I have no way of knowing which of the two fluids they would have used.

What a pain.
 
  #7  
Old 10-04-2009, 05:25 PM
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Three years ago, it was likely Mercon. I don't think the Mercon V TSB came out until after that time. Could be wrong.
 
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Old 10-04-2009, 06:49 PM
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It may have been said... but charge those batteries fully.... Then while cranking jumpstart it with another truck... it doesn't take long and you will be charging the batts again.

It can take a lot of cranking to get it going...
 
  #9  
Old 10-04-2009, 07:02 PM
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The good thing is that you filled the oil rails and will be filling the HPOP. When I swapped my injectors, I didn't and it only took about 30 seconds of cranking to get the HP oil pressure up. But I had the benefit of watching the oil pressure build with my Scan Gauge, and as soon as it hit that 500 psi mark, if fired right up. It was nice to be able to confirm my HP oil was doing what it was supposed to.

I think you'll do okay, but definitely get it hooked up to the other vehicle while you're cranking.
 
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Old 10-04-2009, 07:13 PM
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I want to say it was 15 minutes off and on cranking before she fired the first time.
 
  #11  
Old 10-04-2009, 08:40 PM
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pre start ups

I'd recommend checking your battery grounds to the front of the block. If you are going to have below freezing then you need to keep your motor idling all night long or plg it in to keep the water from freexing or you might find that putting your engine in is all for not when the water freezes and cracks your cylinder walls. if you can pull your batteries and put them into an already running truck to recharge them that would be best and a trick I use is if you do have two trucks try to use two sets of cables from each truck to the respective battery to allow more current to reach the batteries. cycle your key to get the fuel up to the filter housing and good luck with the start. I just got mine done last weekend myself and I am sooo glad its done finally
 
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