Help request for a 7.3 no start
#1
Help request for a 7.3 no start
Hi all! I've got a no start issue with my 2002 F350 and am posting this here to see if anyone can help me. I apologize for the long post, but here is what I've done so far:
Here are the symptoms:
- Engine will turn over (strong), but will not start
- "Wait to start" light won't go off
- My tuner wants to reload itself like when I initially installed it; can't communicate with the vehicle; Edge CTS Diesel tuner
- Can't pull any codes with my hand held scanner; "unable to connect with vehicle" or something like that
- starter will spin and engine will turn over but will not "fire" or "sputter" at all
- Fuel pump does not run when key is turned to start position
- I can still hear what I think is the glow plugs and normal start-up and clicking noises going on under the dash and in engine bay
Here is what I've checked and done so far:
- Both batteries checked and are good
- Replaced the ignition switch under the colum with a new one
- Replaced the Cam Position Sensor with a new sensor
- Checked all fuses visually and with a meter
- Pulled known good blower motor relay and put in all starting relay positions with no change
- Checked fuseable link under hood behind air box; good
- Oil level full
- Moved relays around in two black boxes behind air box and checked with a meter to the best of my ability; no change
- Cigar lighter works; on same fuse as OBD II connector
- Jumped fuel pump with test leads and it works with direct power applied
- Checked fuel shut-off in passenger side kick panel; it was good
- Tried loading the factory tune with a hand-held tuner; tuner gets to the point where tells me to turn the key on; I turn the key on and wait; tuner times out and acts like it doesn't know the key is on, so won't load
- Moved the transmission shifter around to park and neutral to try and start; no luck
Does anyone have any ideas on what is causing this? I suspect it may be a bad PCM. If I can find a PCM in the junk yard, can I swap it in and will it work with my truck?
I've searched forums but nobody has the same symptoms as my truck. Can understand why the tuner and scan tool can't communicate with the PCM. This leads me to believe the PCM is bad. There are many no start problems and solutions out there, but I don't think they will fix my truck due to issues pointing to the PCM...
Last night I pulled the PCM in attempts to find another one today. Found one that a salvage yard can get, but decided to hold off for now. I installed the old PCM for now and decided to do more tests. I opened the drain on the fuel/water separator and am not getting fuel there when I turn the key. Door locks started acting funny, going up and down without stopping for about 3 minutes. I then pulled fuse #19 to get the VSM to shut down. I have had a known problem with the VSM for quite some time now. Here are the symtoms I have had with the VSM that I previously knew about:
Door lock switches inside the truck don't work.
The dome light will not go out even while driving.
The auto headlights don't work.
The door locks will not auto lock at 5mph.
The radio stays on with the key out and the door is open.
The alarm works intermitantly.
The door ajar light will not come on with any door open.
Anyway, funny thing then happened. The WTS light went off and I was actually able to start the truck. I let in idle for about 3 minutes and when I pushed the accelerator, it cut off. I hooked up my code scanner and it had no codes stored, which it wouldn't because I had just had the batteries disconnected. I then started to install a factory tune with a hand-held tuner. It got to about 8% done when the truck went back to the previous condition, whatever that was (non-starting and not doing anything).
Does or will the VSM keep the vehicle from starting? It acts, in some ways, like an anti-theft system has kicked in not allowing access to the PCM to start the engine.
I heard that someone fixed their F350 with similar issues by unplugging the Exhaust back pressure sensor. I unplugged my EBP sensor, but no start. Does the same as it has been, WTS stays on and cranks over fine with no fire. It was worth a shot though.
Again, sorry for the long post. Hoping someone here has had a similar issue and can point me in the right direction. I am at a total loss at this point. Thanks for reading...
Brian
Here are the symptoms:
- Engine will turn over (strong), but will not start
- "Wait to start" light won't go off
- My tuner wants to reload itself like when I initially installed it; can't communicate with the vehicle; Edge CTS Diesel tuner
- Can't pull any codes with my hand held scanner; "unable to connect with vehicle" or something like that
- starter will spin and engine will turn over but will not "fire" or "sputter" at all
- Fuel pump does not run when key is turned to start position
- I can still hear what I think is the glow plugs and normal start-up and clicking noises going on under the dash and in engine bay
Here is what I've checked and done so far:
- Both batteries checked and are good
- Replaced the ignition switch under the colum with a new one
- Replaced the Cam Position Sensor with a new sensor
- Checked all fuses visually and with a meter
- Pulled known good blower motor relay and put in all starting relay positions with no change
- Checked fuseable link under hood behind air box; good
- Oil level full
- Moved relays around in two black boxes behind air box and checked with a meter to the best of my ability; no change
- Cigar lighter works; on same fuse as OBD II connector
- Jumped fuel pump with test leads and it works with direct power applied
- Checked fuel shut-off in passenger side kick panel; it was good
- Tried loading the factory tune with a hand-held tuner; tuner gets to the point where tells me to turn the key on; I turn the key on and wait; tuner times out and acts like it doesn't know the key is on, so won't load
- Moved the transmission shifter around to park and neutral to try and start; no luck
Does anyone have any ideas on what is causing this? I suspect it may be a bad PCM. If I can find a PCM in the junk yard, can I swap it in and will it work with my truck?
I've searched forums but nobody has the same symptoms as my truck. Can understand why the tuner and scan tool can't communicate with the PCM. This leads me to believe the PCM is bad. There are many no start problems and solutions out there, but I don't think they will fix my truck due to issues pointing to the PCM...
Last night I pulled the PCM in attempts to find another one today. Found one that a salvage yard can get, but decided to hold off for now. I installed the old PCM for now and decided to do more tests. I opened the drain on the fuel/water separator and am not getting fuel there when I turn the key. Door locks started acting funny, going up and down without stopping for about 3 minutes. I then pulled fuse #19 to get the VSM to shut down. I have had a known problem with the VSM for quite some time now. Here are the symtoms I have had with the VSM that I previously knew about:
Door lock switches inside the truck don't work.
The dome light will not go out even while driving.
The auto headlights don't work.
The door locks will not auto lock at 5mph.
The radio stays on with the key out and the door is open.
The alarm works intermitantly.
The door ajar light will not come on with any door open.
Anyway, funny thing then happened. The WTS light went off and I was actually able to start the truck. I let in idle for about 3 minutes and when I pushed the accelerator, it cut off. I hooked up my code scanner and it had no codes stored, which it wouldn't because I had just had the batteries disconnected. I then started to install a factory tune with a hand-held tuner. It got to about 8% done when the truck went back to the previous condition, whatever that was (non-starting and not doing anything).
Does or will the VSM keep the vehicle from starting? It acts, in some ways, like an anti-theft system has kicked in not allowing access to the PCM to start the engine.
I heard that someone fixed their F350 with similar issues by unplugging the Exhaust back pressure sensor. I unplugged my EBP sensor, but no start. Does the same as it has been, WTS stays on and cranks over fine with no fire. It was worth a shot though.
Again, sorry for the long post. Hoping someone here has had a similar issue and can point me in the right direction. I am at a total loss at this point. Thanks for reading...
Brian
#2
#5
There is no GEM on a 2002... let alone under the windshield, so we can scratch that off the list.
I noticed the command for the fuel pump comes from the PCM, so it will depend on the programming and the inputs to the PCM to start the fuel pump. I suspect that even if you forced the pump to run, the PCM would say "Uh-uh... something's up. You can keep your fuel until this gets sorted out."
With a partial PCM program, your truck is now officially "Stuck on Stupid". I am curious if the VSM is doing something other than security measures... like sending garbage on the OBDII network and gumming up the works. You might try unplugging the VSM to see if you can then program the PCM (to stock... and leave it on stock until this is sorted out).
I noticed the command for the fuel pump comes from the PCM, so it will depend on the programming and the inputs to the PCM to start the fuel pump. I suspect that even if you forced the pump to run, the PCM would say "Uh-uh... something's up. You can keep your fuel until this gets sorted out."
With a partial PCM program, your truck is now officially "Stuck on Stupid". I am curious if the VSM is doing something other than security measures... like sending garbage on the OBDII network and gumming up the works. You might try unplugging the VSM to see if you can then program the PCM (to stock... and leave it on stock until this is sorted out).
#6
#7
Ugh... leaky windshield / cab marker syndrome.
Pull the fuse panel cover...
Pull the dash bezel around the instrument cluster.. (the one that houses the light switch and 4x4 selector)
Reach down where the big wad of cables connects to the fuse box/gem
I bet its a bit damp....
If you pull the overhead pocket... and look up where the middle cab marker pokes into the cab from above... check for dampness...
From there... follow along over to the drivers side... might need to pull the headliner back a bit to see... but there is a piece of roof channel that catches the drips from the cab markers... and directs the water down the a pillar... pretty much straight to the fuse box /gem...
Wierd things happen when the gem gets wet...
Locks, windows, lights, vss, even no starts can rear their ugly heads...
I sealed up my cab marker lenses with clear tub and tile silly cone...
No more poltergeists since...
Pull the fuse panel cover...
Pull the dash bezel around the instrument cluster.. (the one that houses the light switch and 4x4 selector)
Reach down where the big wad of cables connects to the fuse box/gem
I bet its a bit damp....
If you pull the overhead pocket... and look up where the middle cab marker pokes into the cab from above... check for dampness...
From there... follow along over to the drivers side... might need to pull the headliner back a bit to see... but there is a piece of roof channel that catches the drips from the cab markers... and directs the water down the a pillar... pretty much straight to the fuse box /gem...
Wierd things happen when the gem gets wet...
Locks, windows, lights, vss, even no starts can rear their ugly heads...
I sealed up my cab marker lenses with clear tub and tile silly cone...
No more poltergeists since...
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#8
#9
I had a smiliar issue with no start and would not communicate with my code reader. I unplugged my chip and all was good, so either the conncection went bad or the chip. I realize yours is different than a chip but something to think about trying to unplug everything first and try it.
#10
There is no GEM on a 2002... let alone under the windshield, so we can scratch that off the list.
I noticed the command for the fuel pump comes from the PCM, so it will depend on the programming and the inputs to the PCM to start the fuel pump. I suspect that even if you forced the pump to run, the PCM would say "Uh-uh... something's up. You can keep your fuel until this gets sorted out."
With a partial PCM program, your truck is now officially "Stuck on Stupid". I am curious if the VSM is doing something other than security measures... like sending garbage on the OBDII network and gumming up the works. You might try unplugging the VSM to see if you can then program the PCM (to stock... and leave it on stock until this is sorted out).
I noticed the command for the fuel pump comes from the PCM, so it will depend on the programming and the inputs to the PCM to start the fuel pump. I suspect that even if you forced the pump to run, the PCM would say "Uh-uh... something's up. You can keep your fuel until this gets sorted out."
With a partial PCM program, your truck is now officially "Stuck on Stupid". I am curious if the VSM is doing something other than security measures... like sending garbage on the OBDII network and gumming up the works. You might try unplugging the VSM to see if you can then program the PCM (to stock... and leave it on stock until this is sorted out).
Thanks for your suggestions!
#11
Here's a link to the Vref sensors. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ce-signal.html.
The 5 sensors to unplug and check are throttle position sensor, back pressure sensor (you already checked), injection control pressure sensor, crankshaft position sensor, and map sensor. Those have the Vref signal that will cause a shutdown/no start if shorted.
https://b7445ba3-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites....attredirects=1
The 5 sensors to unplug and check are throttle position sensor, back pressure sensor (you already checked), injection control pressure sensor, crankshaft position sensor, and map sensor. Those have the Vref signal that will cause a shutdown/no start if shorted.
https://b7445ba3-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites....attredirects=1
#12
Ugh... leaky windshield / cab marker syndrome.
Pull the fuse panel cover...
Pull the dash bezel around the instrument cluster.. (the one that houses the light switch and 4x4 selector)
Reach down where the big wad of cables connects to the fuse box/gem
I bet its a bit damp....
If you pull the overhead pocket... and look up where the middle cab marker pokes into the cab from above... check for dampness...
From there... follow along over to the drivers side... might need to pull the headliner back a bit to see... but there is a piece of roof channel that catches the drips from the cab markers... and directs the water down the a pillar... pretty much straight to the fuse box /gem...
Wierd things happen when the gem gets wet...
Locks, windows, lights, vss, even no starts can rear their ugly heads...
I sealed up my cab marker lenses with clear tub and tile silly cone...
No more poltergeists since...
Pull the fuse panel cover...
Pull the dash bezel around the instrument cluster.. (the one that houses the light switch and 4x4 selector)
Reach down where the big wad of cables connects to the fuse box/gem
I bet its a bit damp....
If you pull the overhead pocket... and look up where the middle cab marker pokes into the cab from above... check for dampness...
From there... follow along over to the drivers side... might need to pull the headliner back a bit to see... but there is a piece of roof channel that catches the drips from the cab markers... and directs the water down the a pillar... pretty much straight to the fuse box /gem...
Wierd things happen when the gem gets wet...
Locks, windows, lights, vss, even no starts can rear their ugly heads...
I sealed up my cab marker lenses with clear tub and tile silly cone...
No more poltergeists since...
Everything is bone dry behind the dash. I don't think I have any leaks (knocking on wood)...
#13
Here's a link to the Vref sensors. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ce-signal.html.
The 5 sensors to unplug and check are throttle position sensor, back pressure sensor (you already checked), injection control pressure sensor, crankshaft position sensor, and map sensor. Those have the Vref signal that will cause a shutdown/no start if shorted.
https://b7445ba3-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites....attredirects=1
The 5 sensors to unplug and check are throttle position sensor, back pressure sensor (you already checked), injection control pressure sensor, crankshaft position sensor, and map sensor. Those have the Vref signal that will cause a shutdown/no start if shorted.
https://b7445ba3-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites....attredirects=1
#14
Need more books...
Never enough books in a Dr's library...
#15
Or, you can check PCM pin 90 for continuity to ground.