Did'ja call the dealer in Ketchikan, Alaska to find out what they're asking for their ram cylinder?

There prolly aren't too many ppl in Alaska that would need it, cuz there prolly aren't too many of these trucks still remaining, so...

btw: A year or so ago, there were 20 of the ram cylinder seal kits still around. After I posted the info at that time, what you see is all that's left: ONE.

 

i was wondering if any of the people I saw on the old threads on this subject who didn't want to cut there frame up woul be interested in the purchase of my old steering parts cyl. box,and bendix style drag link set up, two brand new power steering hoses from pump to drag link if so make an offer.

 

another quetion I have is some of you say the two wheel box is less dersirable but my thoughts are that every 1/2 ton four wheel box my friends and I have had have been pretty much junk and by that i meen they seem to develop leaks quick and seemed to fail rather quick for our trucks on the other hand all of the two wheels seem to turn easier jsut want to get everyones thoughts before i go ahead and do this

 

Ok, kets consider the why:

The 2wd box is angled towards the firewall, this is done because the coupler is right between the box and the end of the column. This angle creates a clearance problem when used in the location where it has to be in order for it to work with any 4wd type steering.
Keep in mind that we are talking about a completely new location for a 2wd box. It will no longer sit behind the engine crossmember it has to be located in front of it. Even the 78/9 4wd F250 box has some clearance issues. Combine the length of the sector shaft and this becomes a very weak point when used in a 4wd application. Now, notice how the 2wd box bolts to the frame, and you will see that frame modifications still have to be made to accomodate the 2wd box. This is just about the same modification as the 4wd F250 box would require.
Then consider which type of steering design you intend to use. Consider any style of crossover or invterted "T", where the pitman arm sweeps from left to right and then take into consideration that the 4wd engine crossmeber creates a clearance problem and the 2wd box is once again less desirable. This is because the pitman arm on the 2wd box faces to the rear of the vehicle. An aftermarket arm will have to be used anyway, in order to gain the clearance necessary to clear the crossmember and this adds some cost. This also means that steering is limited to a real crossover design, and this may not be in the plans.
Some have tried to remove the pitman arm and index it to face forward so that the crossmeber is no longer an issue, or use it this way for invterted "T" steering. Sounds reasonable right? Well, what happens with this is that any input to the steering wheel will bring the opposite reaction to the front wheels. Turn the wheel to the left and the tires fo to the right. Opposite is true for opposite input.
2wd vehicle turn a bit easier because of the style of steering and the length of the knuckle. The rear steer design and center link style is much easier to turn than the 4wd type. This is just better geometry.
Use the 2wd box in a 4wd application and it becomes more difficult to steer just like a 4wd box. Although my saginaw box and saginaw pump will turn my 40" boggers at a dead stop from lock to lock.

Your experience with the 3 bolt box (1/2 ton 4wd) is probably a bad one partly due to the same reasons why the 2wd box is less desirable. That sector shaft is long and can develop leaks. Add some slightly larger tires, ot put it through the paces off road, and this flex in the sector will eventually develop a leak. Just a big box and long sector that is not a very good design.
Notice that new fords use a box with a short sector just like the 78/9 F250 used? Good reason why we dont see the old long style boxes being used any more.
Retrofit is cool, but for the same effort, other boxes are stronger thus more desirable.

Example of that sector shaft problem:

 

Hey Buck,.... do I see GM's next to the Ford???...not 1??... but 2???

nice work there also!, when I get close to the time to do mine I will read more on your guys upgrades..I have the 2wd f350, the 4wd 78/79 150 and 250 set ups available

 

thanks 75 350 very in depth .

 

75f350...ouch, that shaft break had to hurt and it does not look like it happened at a good moment.

 

loosing the steering is much like loosing your brakes, (arguably worse), in that neither one ever gets lost at a "good" time.

 

truer words have never been spoken!!

 

ok 75 350 to bother you one more time part # for saginaw box and where did you buy the rod ends and tubing for steering and any other parts and #s would be helpful.

I just want to say I've been in other forums and you guys are the quickest to respond and the most helpfull i want to say thanks to all.

 

As I mentioned in the visitor message knowing the type of steering design that you plan to use will be very helpful.
Knowing this will determine which materials and components that you may need.
In my case, I used shperical rod ends, and some custom tubing. Weld in threaded inserts can be used or you can tap the correct sized tubing.
The axle you currently have is a good little piece of information as well.
Options include the use of factory style tie rod ends instead of the race car type stuff so this can keep costs down.

Let us know what your intentions are and what you hope to acjieve and we can help out.

 

my plans are to have a nice everyday driver probaly sitting on 33s maybe 35s i want to get as good as ride as possible i want to do the best steering for the street that i can do. i'll take all the info on any and all mods to this truck going to tear it down this weekend and start from the ground up.

 

Do you understand the differences in steering designs?

Original Push / Pull?

Crossover?

Inverted "T"?

 

i know how the push pull and cross over work not sure on the i t. i pretty much dont have any problem with fabrication been doing it most of my life i'm just trying to all the home work on this truck i can

 

Ok, Inverted "T" and crossover are very similar by design, but the only difference would be where the drag link attaches to the pass side.
The real crossover design will attach to the top of the pass side knuckle by method of a steering arm similar to the one on the driver side, only it is now located on the pass side.
Inverted "T" will still have a long drag link that runs parallel to the tie rod, but the drag link actually attaches to the tie rod itself. Both reasonable methods of steering designs but depending on the budget or the axle that it will be going on, one might have an advantage over the other.
Dana 44 axles are not as cost effective as the dana 60, so often inverted "T" is a popular swap.
Crossover for the dana 60 is used due in part because it is a bolt on deal.

Dana 60 using Chebby tir rod ends and abolt on steering arm:



An example of inverted "T" style:



Components and to use inverted "T". This is for the tie rod:



Drag link options:



Or in this case, if you have a Dana 44, you can use stock components from the 1/2 ton F150 or 78/9 Bronco. They used smaller tie rod ends but would probaly be fine in this application.

all of the components are available through local parts store so there are no special ends to buy. This is nice if you ever have to make a field repair.
About the only custom piece would be the tie rod and drag link depending upon which steering box you use.

With your limited amount of lift clearance will be an issue, so you will have to be carefull with steering box location and you will watch for the pass side spring if using inverted "t"
Drag link may have to be slightly bent in order to clear the spring at a full lock turn to the right.
Hope this helps out.

There is a very good crosover conversion thread in the Off- road Forum, you may cheack that out. I believe that it is called 79 crossover steering arm, or pitman arm or something like that.
I'm not very good at typing, I m more at home with a welder in my hand, so finding the link is not that easy for me. I do my best with the limited typing skills that I have.
Im all thumbs when it comes to punding the keyboard.