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Steering column/ignition/gear shift Locked.

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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 09:21 PM
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Exclamation Steering column/ignition/gear shift Locked.

Gentlemen,
I have an 89 F250 diesel 2wd C6 3-speed tranny. Today while at work, I lent it to a coworker to run to a restaurant to use the bathroom. Shortly after he left, he called me saying that he could not turn the key in the ignition. I ran over to where he had parked at the restaurant to see what was up. I tried turning the steering wheel while turning the key, but to no avail. Then I tried tapping the key directly into the ignition and then tried turning it again, no dice. After an hour of fooling with the ignition, I gave up on that idea.
So this is what I have done:
The previous owner bypassed the starter to a push button switch on the dash. So all I had to do(I thought) was get power to the ignition and it would start. I pulled a box with a whole bunch of wires going to it off the top of the steering column, and with a screw driver I was able to flick a switch to privied power to the ignition. The truck started with no problems.
New problem was found. I cannot shift the gears or turn the wheel without the key in the ignition and turning it.
My question to you pros is this: Is there a way to cut/slash/break/melt/burn/destroy the locking mechanism on the steering wheel and gear shifter? Are the two locks one in the same?
I called a parts store and they said it was a "neutral locking device in or on the trans" that was inhibiting the shifting(he was certain of this). I personally think he was full of it, because I disconnected the shifter from the trans and was able to shift the trans with my hands.
I am stumpped, I tried to take apart the steering column by first taking off the wheel and then the turn signal switch device, but it was beginning to look like a very complicated procedure.
Any Ideas on how to get this working on the cheap? I don't really care how it looks, just need the functionality of steering/shifting and turn signals.
Any assistance would be much appreciated.
-P.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 09:27 PM
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i have a push buttom to my collon did the smae thing at frits i gave it some wd 40 under the wheel and never happend agian
 
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 09:39 PM
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From: Near Shenandoah Valley
steering lock

My daughters car did this and I realized the brake lights also were not working. I replaced the brake light switch at the brake pedal and this allowed the steering coloum to turn and the shifter to work. This also has the switch to open the control circuit for the cruise.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 10:27 PM
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My guess, he turned the key off without pressing the lock button, and twisted the back of the key switch or linkage off.

Do you have a tilt wheel?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 09:15 AM
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No tilt on the steering. I'm about to run out there with my haynes manual and some WD-40. I'll post any progress or set backs when I get back.
Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 02:41 PM
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To answer a couple of your questions, the shift lever is locked by a piece in the steering column just below the key switch and the steering wheel by a spring loaded pin just above the key switch. Both unlocked by turning the key, unfortunately.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 05:10 PM
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Smile

So I have temporarily fixed my issue. Here's how just incase anyubody else finds themselves in a bind and needs a quick fix.
I took the steering column apart and narrowed the issue down to the ignition switch. I tried WD-40, but no go. So I followed my haynes manual to remove the ignition switch which required me to drill out a pin near the back of the switch. After doing this I read further to see that I needed to have the switch in the "on" position to acutally slide it out. Being that my switch is messed, I cannot turn it to "on". So I removed the snap ring like device on the back of the steering lock mechanism(as per Lazy K) to free up the steering wheel. Then I decided. since my ignition was already messed, to pound out the slider type shift locker thing from the back of the ignition switch. After throwing everything back together, it works great. The only catch is that I have to go under the dash to flick a switch to get power to the ignition.
As of now, the ignition switch is unusable. I will have to run out to a pick-your-part and get a new to me ignition and I assume the housing as well.
Thanks for the help.
-P
 
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 12:27 PM
  #8  
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well probably the best thing to do as I have had to do this to many ford vehicles is that the retaining button on the bottom of the key ignition cylinder is, yes can only be depressed when it is switched on that is why it won't slide out because the internals of the cylinder keeps the button protruding out with something similar to a cam it keeps the cylinder locked in place, but since most that I have replaced had either locked up or customer lost the key is to take a hammer and punch and crush the button into the lock cylinder or get a drill and drill it flush. You can get a new lock cylinder for problably less than twenty bucks at a parts store. just maker sure you take a screw driver and align the rod that is turned by the switch to the on posistion so that the new cylinder will line up properly. Before doing so reattach your ignition switch at the bottom. slide in the new one and presto back to stock. Just when you get the new one in turn the key and make sure you have the ACC. (backwards if you have it) OFF, ON, and START. If not remove the cylinder and adjust the rack accordingly. Your haynes manual should help. If you use the hammer and punch don't get too crazy cause you can bust the housing. It will take some time and be patient because the button can be a little booger sometimes.
 
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