Hello. I need help from someone who really knows what they're doing.

Let me start by saying that I have almost $0 to work with. This issue struck just after moving to a new city, in the middle of a job hunt. I have to fix it to get to work.

I have an automatic 2003 E150 5.4l. A couple of weeks ago I drove it to a nearby gas station. When I came back and unlocked the door, it was dinging like the key was still in the ignition, which it wasn't. I inserted the key and it wouldn't turn. I proceeded to try every damn thing on the internet, and everything any locksmith and mechanic I spoke to told me, thoroughly, for hours. There was no technique or trick that would let the key turn at all. The steering wheel wasn't even locked.
So I tried to remove the ignition lock cylinder to start the engine with a screwdriver. However, I can't press in the eject button underneath because the key will not turn forward enough to allow it.
Then I unbolted and pulled down the starter switch from under the dash, and started the engine. The gear shifter will not budge, even while the the van is running. I turned the wheel a bit; it locked.

The next morning I had to have it towed back to my apartment, which pretty much financially broke me. The AAA guy tried everything before towing, including twisting the steering wheel both directions with excessive force while trying the key. Eventually he pulled hard enough that there was a noise and the wheel turned some. Finally he mumbled something about Fords and told me I likely have a steering column problem.

I had to wait until I was able to get a new ignition lock cylinder. Now I have one. So I set about drilling out the old one in order to replace it. I have drilled the thing down to nothing, and the interior cylinder still will not budge. I mean, I can see through the sides of it in places, and I've gone in so deep that I'm close to drilling into the stem on the other side that slides into the little gear housing.
I don't think there is anything left I can drill, but the cylinder will not rotate. What is going on here? I just need to get this ignition cylinder out so I can put in the new one and then the shifter and wheel will free up, right? What else can I do to get it out? Please help me.

~Marcus

 

Hi Marcus, this may provide some help:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...res-added.html

jim

 

If you've drilled as much as you say its time to stop drilling! Assuming the upper and lower plastic shrouds are removed it might be time to begin with a Dremel tool or something small and fine enough to begin whittling away at the remaining bits of the lock cylinder. Jim's link is helpful showing parts of the column exposed. I have more loaded in my computer from a recent column swap and refurbishing.

Its puzzling once the ball detent is pressed the cylinder won't release---another oddity

A few thoughts come to mind about the steering column especially the rod or bar running from the lock cylinder socket to the ignition switch pin. I've never seen an internal part like this broken, more than a few lock cylinders and/or ignition switches have bit the proverbial dust though

Honestly though once the lock tumblers etc are removed by drilling the retractable pin should move inward and allow the outer cylinder to rotate out of the column. I can't imagine what's preventing its removal.

I have a number of photos of a disassembled that might be helpful---let me know if you need them. If any specific view is needed I have a spare column sitting in a storage tub close by.

Lastly please don't try forcing any action through moving the steering wheel----the parts are strong enough for most daily long term duty but more damage might be done that way.

 

Thank you for your replies. So far I have only drilled the inside cylinder of the ignition lock, to remove the tumblers so that I could rotate the inner cylinder forward enough to press in the ball. My problem is that even with all the inside drilled out, it will not rotate, so I can't press in the ball. Someone else recommended that I try to drive in the ball with a punch and hammer now that the inner cylinder is so thin, is this a feasible idea?

 

I've never done that but it sounds quite feasible to me----I say give it a go but C-A-R-E-F-U-L-L-Y!

As you may know the column casing itself is rather soft. Since the ball is part of the cylinder you're trying to remove a straight in whack with metal punch and metal hammer should do the trick.

I'd use something along the line of a 16-20 ballpein hammer if you have such a thing and a flat tipped punch.

I hope this works---quite unusual to have this happen.

 

I obliterated the entire inside of the ignition lock cylinder with the drill. Then I mutilated the ball pin on the bottom with a punch and hammer. After that I was able to pry it out, unfortunately leaving the stem from the backside still sticking into the ignition gear. However, with needle-nose pliers I was able to turn it forward enough that the steering wheel and gear shifter are unlocked!

Then it immediately began storming outside, so I had to stop. Eventually I'll be able to get the broken stem out and install the new ignition lock cylinder.
No major issue, only the shoddiest ignition lock cylinder in creation that should never have passed QA. Van not repaired yet, but drive-able!

Thank you!

 

I know the budget is tight but don't buy the cheapest replacement lock cylinder----you'll possibly be repeating this repair too soon if so.

Dorman makes a nice replacement, even comes with a key but it wouldn't match those for the doors.

Anyway hope this gets resolved and is trouble from here onward.