Solving an overheat problem
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Pflugerville, tx
I missed the info on the radiator cap. He said try a 15lb cap, you said you have a 13lb. Have you tried it? chuck
Do you have room between the back of the radiator fans and the engine to install maybe a one inch standoff on the four bolt between the shroud and it's mounts. This would dump the extra air within the shroud for a test and still be a safe test. I still think the same about the air flow in one of my previous thoughts. You need slots or holes everywhere in the shroud that there isn't a fan. Restricted air flow. Just my thoughts. chuck
Do you have room between the back of the radiator fans and the engine to install maybe a one inch standoff on the four bolt between the shroud and it's mounts. This would dump the extra air within the shroud for a test and still be a safe test. I still think the same about the air flow in one of my previous thoughts. You need slots or holes everywhere in the shroud that there isn't a fan. Restricted air flow. Just my thoughts. chuck
funny.. I had the fans mounted on steel bars for a while, and I didn't like the look so went to the shroud..
Sam
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Pflugerville, tx
Sam, Cool tool eh? Sounds like the radiator/fans are doing their job,..but the engine temp keeps rising..??.How high will it go before you want to shut things down? Is 205-210 out of the ballpark for this engine?
How does it run..any hesitation on accel from a stop? Any stumbling thru the gears at lite throttle? How many miles on your new engine??..time enough to yank the plugs and read for color? Tan across the ceramics (like coffee/w creamer) is just right.
It might just be a little tight being a fresh rebuild..and things will loosen up some as the miles/hours accumulate.Have you changed the oil yet? What wt are you using? I know thats alot of questions, and probably more coming..Your laser is a good investment already..arn't ya glad you don't have to wonder and guess...LoL! Keep it "real' handy..like on the front seat for awhile until you get things sorted out,..that sounds like what is going on at this stage of the game ..learning how the new beast likes to breathe., and making adjustments to allow it to be more comfortable..LoL..Keep after it, and BTW, dosen't sound like you have had the time to drive/take temp readings yet..don't rush things ,the weekend will be here soon enough,sounds like engine temps are a little higher than normal,but,..don't ignore the high trans temp if present..let's get some cooler line temps..Good Luck!
How does it run..any hesitation on accel from a stop? Any stumbling thru the gears at lite throttle? How many miles on your new engine??..time enough to yank the plugs and read for color? Tan across the ceramics (like coffee/w creamer) is just right.
It might just be a little tight being a fresh rebuild..and things will loosen up some as the miles/hours accumulate.Have you changed the oil yet? What wt are you using? I know thats alot of questions, and probably more coming..Your laser is a good investment already..arn't ya glad you don't have to wonder and guess...LoL! Keep it "real' handy..like on the front seat for awhile until you get things sorted out,..that sounds like what is going on at this stage of the game ..learning how the new beast likes to breathe., and making adjustments to allow it to be more comfortable..LoL..Keep after it, and BTW, dosen't sound like you have had the time to drive/take temp readings yet..don't rush things ,the weekend will be here soon enough,sounds like engine temps are a little higher than normal,but,..don't ignore the high trans temp if present..let's get some cooler line temps..Good Luck!
runs great.. no hesitation anywhere.. nice shifting. good kickdown. nice idle once it warms up.
like 50 miles on the engine.. using 30wt oil.. not changed since breakin
when we replaced the filter. thinking it might be time soon.
sam
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
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From: Poway, Ca.
You should probably change both oil and filter at 1000 miles. Also, I would be tempted with something High Compression to break it in with 10W 20 wt oil for the first 500 miles at least, then go up to 30 wt.
Ya know if you spend any more time on the computer trying to solve this, you won't have time to run the truck....problem solved!
Ya know if you spend any more time on the computer trying to solve this, you won't have time to run the truck....problem solved!
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
You should probably change both oil and filter at 1000 miles. Also, I would be tempted with something High Compression to break it in with 10W 20 wt oil for the first 500 miles at least, then go up to 30 wt.
Ya know if you spend any more time on the computer trying to solve this, you won't have time to run the truck....problem solved!
Ya know if you spend any more time on the computer trying to solve this, you won't have time to run the truck....problem solved!
as if I'll ever get there!.. as for the computer time.. I'm finding work is interfering with my fun time... and they want you to come EVERY DAY!!.. sheesh
Sam
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 583
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From: Augusta, Georgia
Sam,
The info about the transmission fluid being heated up by the coolant is NOT true.
With the cooler being in the lower tank, no radiator heat is in that area until AFTER the t-stat opens. I have talked with several transmission men and all agree that the transmission generates plenty of heat on its own.
Many of today's cars and trucks cool the transmissions with a separate cooler and NO cooler in the radiator
The info about the transmission fluid being heated up by the coolant is NOT true.
With the cooler being in the lower tank, no radiator heat is in that area until AFTER the t-stat opens. I have talked with several transmission men and all agree that the transmission generates plenty of heat on its own.
Many of today's cars and trucks cool the transmissions with a separate cooler and NO cooler in the radiator
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Pflugerville, tx
left to right, 6, 7, 4
Sam
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Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Pflugerville, tx
Sam
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Pflugerville, tx
Sam
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Springfield, Il
The first thing that came to my mind was my 351C I had in my mustang. Had a cooling issue also, (mine was radiator cap) but after researching I had read several places that an engine with too much timing will run alot hotter also. Maybe you could look at that if you haven't already. Just giving my 2 cents. Good luck
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 528
Likes: 4
From: Charelston, Illinois
Sam-
Thank you for posting pictures of your spark plugs. The porcelain section of the plug is an indicator of air/fuel mixture and they look good (tan color), but the grounding strap of your plugs concern me. The grounding strap is a timing indicator and looking at your plugs, I can see a definite color change prior to the apex which means that you have too much timing. Ideally, it is best for the color change to be right in the middle of the 90 degree bend. Based upon the appearance of your plugs, I would suggest that you back your timing off a little. This should definitely help you run cooler.
<O
Lance<O
Thank you for posting pictures of your spark plugs. The porcelain section of the plug is an indicator of air/fuel mixture and they look good (tan color), but the grounding strap of your plugs concern me. The grounding strap is a timing indicator and looking at your plugs, I can see a definite color change prior to the apex which means that you have too much timing. Ideally, it is best for the color change to be right in the middle of the 90 degree bend. Based upon the appearance of your plugs, I would suggest that you back your timing off a little. This should definitely help you run cooler.
<O
Lance<O
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Pflugerville, tx
Sam-
Thank you for posting pictures of your spark plugs. The porcelain section of the plug is an indicator of air/fuel mixture and they look good (tan color), but the grounding strap of your plugs concern me. The grounding strap is a timing indicator and looking at your plugs, I can see a definite color change prior to the apex which means that you have too much timing. Ideally, it is best for the color change to be right in the middle of the 90 degree bend. Based upon the appearance of your plugs, I would suggest that you back your timing off a little. This should definitely help you run cooler.
<o></o>
Lance<o></o>
Thank you for posting pictures of your spark plugs. The porcelain section of the plug is an indicator of air/fuel mixture and they look good (tan color), but the grounding strap of your plugs concern me. The grounding strap is a timing indicator and looking at your plugs, I can see a definite color change prior to the apex which means that you have too much timing. Ideally, it is best for the color change to be right in the middle of the 90 degree bend. Based upon the appearance of your plugs, I would suggest that you back your timing off a little. This should definitely help you run cooler.
<o>
</o>Lance<o>
</o>I think we are at 12 degrees initial + 24 advance (all mechanical) = 36 total.
I found this MSD timing guidance chart
Sam
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 528
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From: Charelston, Illinois
Sam-
I would only change it 2 degrees and see how the engine likes the change (engine temp.). After giving your overheating problem some additional thought in relation to the way your plugs look, I believe your engine builder might have put the timing as far advanced as he/she reasonably could to make the horsepower numbers look the best. Since you are not racing or on the dyno, I would recommend backing the timing up 2 degrees. This adjustment might not completely solve your overheating problem, but should definitely help. Please let us know how the engine likes this change.
<O
Lance<O</O
I would only change it 2 degrees and see how the engine likes the change (engine temp.). After giving your overheating problem some additional thought in relation to the way your plugs look, I believe your engine builder might have put the timing as far advanced as he/she reasonably could to make the horsepower numbers look the best. Since you are not racing or on the dyno, I would recommend backing the timing up 2 degrees. This adjustment might not completely solve your overheating problem, but should definitely help. Please let us know how the engine likes this change.
<O
Lance<O
</O