Solving an overheat problem
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Pflugerville, tx
Do we have anyone who is knowledgeable about exhaust systems? 1 3/4 to 2 1/2 to muffler (need type & back pressure info) to a 2 " tail pipe. Need to come up with a back pressure for a 460 engine. Sam, did anyone design this exhaust system for you? With a big block I'm sure there is a specific minmum sizes (diameter). It's not me!
Is the 2" tail pipe welded on or can you disconnect from the muffler for a test? I have a co-op around here asking all these questions. I hope something clicks for you.
chuck
Is the 2" tail pipe welded on or can you disconnect from the muffler for a test? I have a co-op around here asking all these questions. I hope something clicks for you.
chuck
I don't think this would be a problem at idle.. as mentioned.
I think the Lincoln it came from had 2in single exhaust. I have dual at least
Sam
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From: Pflugerville, tx
as they come toward the front, they are about 3in at the nearest point. braided stainless lines. I'm going to move them when I put the external cooler on tomorrow. the cooler will be on the chassis under the drivers door (as the passenger side has the air bag air tank.) I decided on the passive cylindrical finned type after checking which a couple rod shops about what they do. (none use the fan type, none put them out front of the radiator)
Sam
Sam
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From: Springfield, Il
I am sure that you have thought of this, but if you do not find an answer and it is the nature of the beast, you may have to use a chemical to bring down the high temps. There is one out there I think is called "Water Wetter", or "Kool". They claim to bring down the temps by 40*. Maybe someone here has used this stuff. Good Luck
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From: Pflugerville, tx
I am sure that you have thought of this, but if you do not find an answer and it is the nature of the beast, you may have to use a chemical to bring down the high temps. There is one out there I think is called "Water Wetter", or "Kool". They claim to bring down the temps by 40*. Maybe someone here has used this stuff. Good Luck
Sam
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From: Springfield, Il
Here is a link to Summitracing.com that sells it. It claims a 30* drop in temps.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RED-80204/
The other additive I mentioned earlier is called. "Kwick Kool"
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RED-80204/
The other additive I mentioned earlier is called. "Kwick Kool"
Last edited by twise; Aug 28, 2009 at 08:29 AM. Reason: adding info
Fleet Owner
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From: NM
Here is a link to Summitracing.com that sells it. It claims a 30* drop in temps.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RED-80204/
The other additive I mentioned earlier is called. "Kwick Kool"
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RED-80204/
The other additive I mentioned earlier is called. "Kwick Kool"
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 423
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I have used water wetter. It is reddish pink in color and around 10 bucks for a bottle. I used it in a 76 3/4 ton chevy when I pulled a 35 foot travel trailer from east Texas to SW Oklahoma. The truck ran 225 (hotter than usual) the whole way and topped out at 70 mph with the pedal floored the whole way. It got 5 mpg on that trip. It never actually over heated though so maybe the water wetter helped, but it dang sure didnt run 30 degrees cooler!
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From: Pflugerville, tx
I have used water wetter. It is reddish pink in color and around 10 bucks for a bottle. I used it in a 76 3/4 ton chevy when I pulled a 35 foot travel trailer from east Texas to SW Oklahoma. The truck ran 225 (hotter than usual) the whole way and topped out at 70 mph with the pedal floored the whole way. It got 5 mpg on that trip. It never actually over heated though so maybe the water wetter helped, but it dang sure didnt run 30 degrees cooler!
Sam
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From: NM
Sam, maybe I missed it, but what's the heater situation on this? You don't have an open hose bypassing it, do you?
I'd be real tempted to pull the thermostat, or to mangle one so it opens further/earlier/all the time, to take that out of the equation.
I'd be real tempted to pull the thermostat, or to mangle one so it opens further/earlier/all the time, to take that out of the equation.
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From: Pflugerville, tx
typically 'no' thermostats run hotter, as they allow too much flow, so that the water in the radiator doesn't have time too cool. (notice I said 'typically'). going from 180 to 160 didn't really change anything..
Sam
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sam
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From: Bloomfield, Iowa
Been reading this for a while. I think you have a smiple fix.
Your radiator isn't big enough for the task. By adding rows of core (6 core?!?) you only impeeded the ari flow. As you are aware from some of your posts, the fan only works at low speed. Once the truck is moving, the fan becomes ineffective. You are simply not letting enough air through the core to carry away the heat.
Somebody suggested raising the hood and driving it. Notice when you idle with the hood open measuring everything how much hot air comes past the cowl area. Once you close the hood that air is trapped.
Poor flow through the core, poor flow through the engine compartment compounds the core problem. Now you are stacking up problems.
I run a 19x24 2 core aluminum cross flow raidator on a 500HP dirt modified motor on gas. It barely cools this motor but it's the biggest radiator that will fit the frame. In out late models, we ran 735HP and used a 19x27 and cooled it fine. 4 blade steel fan. Good shroud, no air around the radiator, it all went through the core. We use Watter Wetter and see about 10* drop from it at best. We use it for lube since we run water.
I would suggest the radiator is the whole problem. Get an aluminum 2 row cross flow and do whatever it takes to mount the biggest one you can.
Spend some time here:
www.stewartcomponents.com
Notice the tech area down the left side of the page.
Good luck,
SPark
Your radiator isn't big enough for the task. By adding rows of core (6 core?!?) you only impeeded the ari flow. As you are aware from some of your posts, the fan only works at low speed. Once the truck is moving, the fan becomes ineffective. You are simply not letting enough air through the core to carry away the heat.
Somebody suggested raising the hood and driving it. Notice when you idle with the hood open measuring everything how much hot air comes past the cowl area. Once you close the hood that air is trapped.
Poor flow through the core, poor flow through the engine compartment compounds the core problem. Now you are stacking up problems.
I run a 19x24 2 core aluminum cross flow raidator on a 500HP dirt modified motor on gas. It barely cools this motor but it's the biggest radiator that will fit the frame. In out late models, we ran 735HP and used a 19x27 and cooled it fine. 4 blade steel fan. Good shroud, no air around the radiator, it all went through the core. We use Watter Wetter and see about 10* drop from it at best. We use it for lube since we run water.
I would suggest the radiator is the whole problem. Get an aluminum 2 row cross flow and do whatever it takes to mount the biggest one you can.
Spend some time here:
www.stewartcomponents.com
Notice the tech area down the left side of the page.
Good luck,
SPark
Thread Starter
|
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
Been reading this for a while. I think you have a smiple fix.
Your radiator isn't big enough for the task. By adding rows of core (6 core?!?) you only impeeded the ari flow. As you are aware from some of your posts, the fan only works at low speed. Once the truck is moving, the fan becomes ineffective. You are simply not letting enough air through the core to carry away the heat.
Somebody suggested raising the hood and driving it. Notice when you idle with the hood open measuring everything how much hot air comes past the cowl area. Once you close the hood that air is trapped.
Poor flow through the core, poor flow through the engine compartment compounds the core problem. Now you are stacking up problems.
I run a 19x24 2 core aluminum cross flow raidator on a 500HP dirt modified motor on gas. It barely cools this motor but it's the biggest radiator that will fit the frame. In out late models, we ran 735HP and used a 19x27 and cooled it fine. 4 blade steel fan. Good shroud, no air around the radiator, it all went through the core. We use Watter Wetter and see about 10* drop from it at best. We use it for lube since we run water.
I would suggest the radiator is the whole problem. Get an aluminum 2 row cross flow and do whatever it takes to mount the biggest one you can.
Spend some time here:
www.stewartcomponents.com
Notice the tech area down the left side of the page.
Good luck,
SPark
Your radiator isn't big enough for the task. By adding rows of core (6 core?!?) you only impeeded the ari flow. As you are aware from some of your posts, the fan only works at low speed. Once the truck is moving, the fan becomes ineffective. You are simply not letting enough air through the core to carry away the heat.
Somebody suggested raising the hood and driving it. Notice when you idle with the hood open measuring everything how much hot air comes past the cowl area. Once you close the hood that air is trapped.
Poor flow through the core, poor flow through the engine compartment compounds the core problem. Now you are stacking up problems.
I run a 19x24 2 core aluminum cross flow raidator on a 500HP dirt modified motor on gas. It barely cools this motor but it's the biggest radiator that will fit the frame. In out late models, we ran 735HP and used a 19x27 and cooled it fine. 4 blade steel fan. Good shroud, no air around the radiator, it all went through the core. We use Watter Wetter and see about 10* drop from it at best. We use it for lube since we run water.
I would suggest the radiator is the whole problem. Get an aluminum 2 row cross flow and do whatever it takes to mount the biggest one you can.
Spend some time here:
www.stewartcomponents.com
Notice the tech area down the left side of the page.
Good luck,
SPark
Sam