Solving an overheat problem
Thread Starter
|
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
Sam-
I would only change it 2 degrees and see how the engine likes the change (engine temp.). After giving your overheating problem some additional thought in relation to the way your plugs look, I believe your engine builder might have put the timing as far advanced as he/she reasonably could to make the horsepower numbers look the best. Since you are not racing or on the dyno, I would recommend backing the timing up 2 degrees. This adjustment might not completely solve your overheating problem, but should definitely help. Please let us know how the engine likes this change.
<o>
</o>
Lance<o></o>
I would only change it 2 degrees and see how the engine likes the change (engine temp.). After giving your overheating problem some additional thought in relation to the way your plugs look, I believe your engine builder might have put the timing as far advanced as he/she reasonably could to make the horsepower numbers look the best. Since you are not racing or on the dyno, I would recommend backing the timing up 2 degrees. This adjustment might not completely solve your overheating problem, but should definitely help. Please let us know how the engine likes this change.
<o>
</o>Lance<o>
</o>I will do this shortly
thanks
Sam
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
I see that your inlet on the rad is on the pass side, what side is your outlet on??
I gather that is a down flow rad, if the outlet is on the same side as the inlet you could have the coolint going from the top to bottom but staying on the one side not using the totel cap of the rad.
I Hope this helps
L8ter..
I gather that is a down flow rad, if the outlet is on the same side as the inlet you could have the coolint going from the top to bottom but staying on the one side not using the totel cap of the rad.
I Hope this helps
L8ter..
Thread Starter
|
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
I see that your inlet on the rad is on the pass side, what side is your outlet on??
I gather that is a down flow rad, if the outlet is on the same side as the inlet you could have the coolint going from the top to bottom but staying on the one side not using the totel cap of the rad.
I Hope this helps
L8ter..
I gather that is a down flow rad, if the outlet is on the same side as the inlet you could have the coolint going from the top to bottom but staying on the one side not using the totel cap of the rad.
I Hope this helps
L8ter..
sam
Thread Starter
|
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
1. replaced 50/50 coolant mix with 80% water/ 20%coolant(50/50).
2. removed the tranny lines from the rad cooler
3. added a secondary overflow for fillback testing and prefilled the primary overflow about 1/4 of the way.. its 2x13, so 81 cubic inches, or about 2.8 pints. a 3x15 would be 141cim or 4.9 pints. (almost double the capacity)
ran at idle, checked advance, initial is set to 11 degrees btdc and is solid, did not change it.
temp rose again. stopped test at 210 degrees. top to bottom difference still about 25 degrees.
I have the jets to go 70->72, will do that later in the week.
temp testing the tranny coolant line (loopback for idle testing), the temp was pretty solid at 165. so this looks NOT to be the contributor I thought it might be. but I will put an external cooler on anyhow.
sam
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
The test you described above is 100% normal!
Might try advancing your timing to 14 if you have any kind of a cam and no pollution control. But, that wil not affect temp. Set timing with Vacuum gauge, not timing light.
As much as I hate to say this, your temps might just be fairly normal for this engine for break in. I'd also still consider light oils until 1000 miles 10W20.
Mine made me VERY nervous then just settled out without adjustment - just miles.
Might try advancing your timing to 14 if you have any kind of a cam and no pollution control. But, that wil not affect temp. Set timing with Vacuum gauge, not timing light.
As much as I hate to say this, your temps might just be fairly normal for this engine for break in. I'd also still consider light oils until 1000 miles 10W20.
Mine made me VERY nervous then just settled out without adjustment - just miles.
Thread Starter
|
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
The test you described above is 100% normal!
Might try advancing your timing to 14 if you have any kind of a cam and no pollution control. But, that wil not affect temp. Set timing with Vacuum gauge, not timing light.
As much as I hate to say this, your temps might just be fairly normal for this engine for break in. I'd also still consider light oils until 1000 miles 10W20.
Mine made me VERY nervous then just settled out without adjustment - just miles.
Might try advancing your timing to 14 if you have any kind of a cam and no pollution control. But, that wil not affect temp. Set timing with Vacuum gauge, not timing light.
As much as I hate to say this, your temps might just be fairly normal for this engine for break in. I'd also still consider light oils until 1000 miles 10W20.
Mine made me VERY nervous then just settled out without adjustment - just miles.
sam
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 907
Likes: 1
From: Kansas City, Mo
With the style radiator neck can you see if there are any bubbles when the hot water moves? I'm thinking of a cracked head or gasket. Have you done a compression/leak down test.
Did the dyno test monitor the water temps as you did the runs? Do have print outs showing numbers?
Can you swing the a/c condenser out of the way to see how it may effect the radiators ability to cool?
The exhaust system can effect engine tempature especially a defective cat converter, if installed. Diameter of exhaust piping. chuck
Did the dyno test monitor the water temps as you did the runs? Do have print outs showing numbers?
Can you swing the a/c condenser out of the way to see how it may effect the radiators ability to cool?
The exhaust system can effect engine tempature especially a defective cat converter, if installed. Diameter of exhaust piping. chuck
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Thread Starter
|
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
With the style radiator neck can you see if there are any bubbles when the hot water moves? I'm thinking of a cracked head or gasket. Have you done a compression/leak down test.
Did the dyno test monitor the water temps as you did the runs? Do have print outs showing numbers?
Can you swing the a/c condenser out of the way to see how it may effect the radiators ability to cool?
The exhaust system can effect engine tempature especially a defective cat converter, if installed. Diameter of exhaust piping. chuck
Did the dyno test monitor the water temps as you did the runs? Do have print outs showing numbers?
Can you swing the a/c condenser out of the way to see how it may effect the radiators ability to cool?
The exhaust system can effect engine tempature especially a defective cat converter, if installed. Diameter of exhaust piping. chuck
dyno test did monitor water temp(attached), at 162-165, BUT, this was a flow THRU system and the water was discarded, not recirculated.
I do NOT get bubbles in the rad fill neck while running.
I would have to pull the grill to remove the A/C condenser..
exhaust goes thru custom long tube headers I built 1.75in tubing size (max). to 3.5 in collectors, then step down to 2.5 in pipe to cross over to 2.5 in mufflers, to 2inch outlets. no cat. this is an interesting point however, I've really only started getting this problem since we completed the exhaust, the step down to 2 in tailpipes and the cross over. we did NOT change any piping up to the mufflers except the addition of the cross over.
(the dyno run used these same headers, but with no mufflers or tailpipes)
Sam
Thread Starter
|
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
sam
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 907
Likes: 1
From: Kansas City, Mo
Do we have anyone who is knowledgeable about exhaust systems? 1 3/4 to 2 1/2 to muffler (need type & back pressure info) to a 2 " tail pipe. Need to come up with a back pressure for a 460 engine. Sam, did anyone design this exhaust system for you? With a big block I'm sure there is a specific minmum sizes (diameter). It's not me!
Is the 2" tail pipe welded on or can you disconnect from the muffler for a test? I have a co-op around here asking all these questions. I hope something clicks for you.
chuck
Is the 2" tail pipe welded on or can you disconnect from the muffler for a test? I have a co-op around here asking all these questions. I hope something clicks for you.
chuck
Last edited by 49fordpickumup; Aug 27, 2009 at 05:37 PM. Reason: changes
