Is it that none of you can read or is English your second language? On page 278 of the link that was provided, 4th row states that after you press and hold the button and go over 35 the TC remains disabled.

So you spin your tires to the speed limiter if you like.

This forum is a joke.

Mike

 

You guys should watch some episodes of top gear. They have many a time shown how a car handles with and without nannys and everytime they turn off the nannys the cars are out of control and even the experienced drivers have a lot of trouble keeping them undercontrol. I have seen overfinch Range rovers with so much power that it's hard to pull away without the traction control on as the wheels just keep spinning in grass and this is with pro drivers. Seems we have some people on here who should be on a race track and not a truck forum. Might wanna go over the the rock crawler forums also and tell them that spinning your wheels is a must to have full control when off road

 

The thing is Mike even though it will function above 35 there's zero need to spin them over 35. If you aint gonna get traction at 35mph your not gonna get any at 80 or 500mph. No traction is no traction no matter what speed your doing. But you are correct that it will carry on being shut off until you either turn the engine of and back on or turn it back on.

 

There is some arguement to be had that in mud and snow, you can get thrust by slinging mud and snow and not attually getting "traction".

However I have a good amount of experience in mud, snow, and generally off road stuff as I own property. I've noticed that once you're stuck that spinning faster rarely does anything. Now you will slip a bit and that's when you'd want TC off.

Mike

 

bsimmer3000--Where do you come up with some of your stuff? You may be too impressed by the so called professional drivers to be paying real attention to what is being said here. Show me where, anyone said that spinning your wheels is a must to have full control. Apparently, to you, spinning wheels are an indication of only 2 things---full control or total loss of control. In reality it is neither. Sometimes it is unavoidable with an open diff, because you dont know the traction limits until there is slippage by one or both wheels, then you act accordingly. That is not to put the petal to the floor. Race tracks are not the best or only judges for most of this type of driving, nor do most of us give a darn about them. If I wanted to be on a race track, I can afford to be on one----I choose not to be. Rock Crawling is a far cry from being a good example about anything but Rock Crawling-----something else I could care less about.

 

My point exactly. You dont know so thats what TC is for. It's there as a back up so that if you do lose traction and you aint been quick enough to let of the throttle then it can control the problem for you. Is it really that hard to understand. No matter how good a driver you think you are it can still happen. Pro or not pro. If you need the wheels to carry on spinning then turn the TC off like some people have said.

 

Well, the TC used engage ALL THE TIME in our '97 Olds minivan and my '04 Audi A4 FWD turbo. Without the TC, you would spin the tires easily--the van had a low first gear, so turning on an uphill would guaranty spin. The Audi would start to wheelhop when the boost came up, and you'd have to back way out of it in the wet w/o TC.

So the idea that in a low traction situation the TC is going to leave you sitting motionless just has not played out in my experience. Both of those vehicles were faster in low traction situations with the TC ON. We have another RWD V8 car with TC, but I don't recall it engaging as it's a pillow barge and gets the delicatessen touch usually. My new truck has it, but not enough power to spin the wheels so far. (not a lot of wet pavement here this time of year...) But the next time I see some wet, I'll try to pitch it sideways and report on my findings.....

 

bsimmer, you are not reading the quotes you post. Nowhere have I said that slipping wheels were desireable or that they should continue slipping. If you think you are "quick enough" to stop a wheel from spinning with an open diff, in many circumstances you cant control, then you are daydreaming. We all know what TC is supposed to. You continue to contradict youself in your last post. "It is there as a backup if you do lose traction", absolutely, but tell me just how it is you could tell if you have lost traction? Could it be that a wheel was spinning? Without that, TC could not function. If you had no TA (traction adder, not necessarily LS) and no TC, do you think a spinning wheel would indicate you had lost traction? Ah!, but I forget, you are "quick enough" or can use ESP BEFORE it happens---certainly want to give you credit as a "Professional driver".

Please give a precise accounting of TC than the manual instruction, provided that you know any. What I am interested in is probably an Engineers data sheet. You know, similar to information that is used for "tuners" which isnt in the manual either.



What myself and another person here are trying to find out is just what (and with precise explanation of what occurs and when) activates the TC application. That is pretty well explained---and it "aint" pretty. Once again, I do not want wheel spin, therefore I am a fan of a good traction adder. Soccer Moms and professional drivers can have TC.

I am with Tylus on the video, I call BS on the LS diffs for Ford and Toyota. If they are, then the LS clutches are slipping or both wheels are spinning (including the one on good surface). Cant tell from the video if both wheels are spinning. If one wheel has good traction, I would expect to be able to pull that little hill without spinning both. We have to consider that these drivers are the Mfg's professional drivers and may not have the control to do so. I stick by what I said, that you show in red in my quote. I am throwing the BS flag on you about being "quick enough" to prevent it. At no time have I advocated that when wheel spin was detected should you "floor the throttle". As you so appropriately state, (paraphrased) the TC detects wheelspin and moves to correct it by brakes and throttle application. In any case, with or without TC, you are not quick enough to prevent wheelspin in all circumstances---Unless, of course, you are in "P" or "N".

 

Benshere you need to stop coming out with lies. Where have i said anywhere in my posts that i am a pro driver and can control when my wheels are about to spin. For one i didn't as i don't class my self as a pro driver like some of you guys. I for one found out just the other day how well the TC and RSC works. I was coming around a wet corner and as i left the corner i gave some power and before i knew it my truck was sideways and TC had stopped me from going the whole way around. I think you are confusing your self. What I'm saying is TC will control the wheelspin far before you have even noticed it is happening. You clearly think you can monitor the wheels 5000x a second like the sensors can? Granted TC is not so great when you do have good traction and you get that slight cut of power until the wheel grip again but to be honest if you was a good driver then you wouldn't spin the wheels on pull away as it lost power that is not being transfered to forward movement but into heat.

 

I just skimmed the latest posts and am amazed that a Ford Tech would say unplug the wheel speed sensors. You would loose speedometer, Navigation(if equipped), and of course ABS and traction/stability. I still contend that this system is one of the greatest advancements in our trucks and it is plausible that some individuals may find it annoying. Overall, it is awesome technology.

 

It sure would as even a novice would tell you. But i agree that it's a great system that under normal driveing conditions functions witout problems. If you do wanna spin the tires for some and go sideways then trun it off. I dont see the issue with pressing a button.

 

Bsimmer3000 Isn't it amazing what this technology can do in referance to the spin you encountered. When this system works it is faster and more deliberate than any driver can be. That what I was trying to say in my first couple of posts. The Ford system in my truck is very nicely modulated. My 05 Mercedes is really intrusive when traction/stability kicks in. The truck is actually quite nice and will let you get away with a lot wheel slipping.
When a tire looses traction you are on your way to doom. When this system saves you once, like on black ice or an emergency stop/swerve, you will forever embrace it.
If you want to shoot roostertails in the mud get an old VW Beetle - they are quit good at it.

 

bsimmer, once again you are way off-base--. Never said I could detect wheelspin before TC does, but until you can provide precise paramenters for measuring the differential of wheel spin that triggers TC then you cannot say I cant detect it before the TC does. It should be obvious (to most anyway) that a certain amount of differential is allowed between wheels or you could not turn a corner or round a curve, especially in black ice or Fl ice conditions. What I have asked, and you obviously dont know is what are the precise measurements? While that RISC processor (used to be RISC anyway) is scanning at 5000X a sec (is that accurate or did you drag that out from a lower rear storage unit). It is scanning for some paramenter that is set in software that tells it to react to wheelspin. If you know, then please tell us and quit blowing smoke. Another question I have, which you apparently have not thought of is what differential does the processor allow or does it attempt to "clamp" the wheels is total sync? The problem, as I see it, is you do not understand our questions, so therefore, you attempt to belittle those who ask them.

BTW, you suggest that the rest of us are wheel spinning, skidding fools and liars, then how is it that I, even with TC on my Expy have not had to call on TC to keep from going sideways. So much for your driving skills. Also, numerous other posters have said that the throttle control is not a gentle or "slight cut of power" so you are again mistaken. I, being the terrible driver that I am have never had RSC or TC cut in, so I cannot attest to that---are you calling all those people "liars" as well?

Its obvious we are not on the same page about these things, so unless you can enlighten us as to specific parameters, you have no value to me. If I want stupid abuse, I will ask the wife------

Two of you are attempting to paint all those who experience wheelspin, with the same brush.

Whalebird--So, when "A tire loses traction you are on your way to doom". God forbid anyone ever rides with you. I have done it many, many times and did not spin out or crash. Thats because I am not mired down in Myth like you two.

I also have related the value in ABS, read my previous posts. It prevented the mating of a full size Bronco and a 260Z car.

 

I don't really care about the rest of it, but I have had Ford LS diffs in every truck that I've owned and none of them have been worth a crap. If one surface is really as slick as ice and the other is pavement, I don't see the LS alone making it up.

In either case, and especially if it is an open dif, the TC did a great job in stopping the slip and getting the power to a tire with grip.

Mike

 

Benshere what on earth are you going on about. Your in a world of your own. We talking about the Issues traction control does or does not have and your going on about something totally different!

We anyway i just got back from a trip out and had the chance to try out the TC a little more and i was a pretty step slope waiting for a green light and ground was soaked wet. I gave it a little more throttle than i normally do just to get it to spin and was on a straight road. Even before i knew wheels were spinning the Dash light comes on and warns me and i try to floor it aint it keeps me from going any more revs than i was currently going so i didnt get that jolt that you would feel from giving it loads of throotle from a standstill. It seems that the TC cuts your power to a certain RPM from what ever RPM your at so if your at 4000rpm and it cuts power you are gonna have a pretty atrusive cut in power where as if your at 2100rpm and 2000rpm is the max for TC for that moment then you only get a cut of 100rpm. I tried to floor it from a standstill at a juntion and it let the wheels spin for just a second then cut my power right down and it was as i thought a pretty rough cut in power. I guess it does this because you have far to much RPM for the TC to be happy and tryed to get you down fast. Also with TC of it let me hit the Rev Limiter every time i tried to pull away so it seems to fully shut it off.