When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yeah, please post up the pics. That sounds kind of odd and it'll be next to impossible to help you with that without the pictures. Might the an EB only thing?
Some nice, new pics to add to this great thread. My passenger front door cladding was peeling off. Previous owner was in a crash at some point, and the repairs were not done very well. Paint job has flaws, and the cladding was not applied correctly back on the X. So, I removed it. Was a pain in the butt to get all the extra wide double sided tape off the door. Found a half-*** paint job underneath the cladding. Decided I was going to remove ALL the cladding. Got this far:
...and the wife and I are really liking how it looks like this! I may just stop right here and leave it this way.
The glue is actually double sided tape. It is tough to get off by hand. I bought a "magic wheel" for my drill (made by 3M). I will use it on the driver's side and see how much faster it goes. Removing the two door panels on the passenger side took me about 4 hours of work. I tried every solvent/remover that they make for car applications (and spent $$$ on them), but none of them impressed me. Goo gone worked best I think, but it does not soak into the tape very quickly, and you have to re-apply it often as you are working the tape off.
The panel that was already peeling was easy to get off. The panel that was still properly affixed to its door was a lot harder. I used a wide chisel and a small scrap of wood to pry against. This enabled me to get one corner started, and then I used my hands to pull it off the rest of the way. You just have to pull evenly across the piece and work it off. I was trying to get mine off undamaged. If you don't care, it will go quicker.
is that a crew cab, or ext cab, cab corner that you used?
Going off of memory here and it was a few years already but if I remember right, it was a regular cab corner. Though a CC rear should also work. Same? We cut away the outside section and only used the inside that gets hidden when the door closes anyway. Can't say on the extended because I've never had one to look at.
The glue is actually double sided tape. It is tough to get off by hand. I bought a "magic wheel" for my drill (made by 3M). I will use it on the driver's side and see how much faster it goes. Removing the two door panels on the passenger side took me about 4 hours of work. I tried every solvent/remover that they make for car applications (and spent $$$ on them), but none of them impressed me. Goo gone worked best I think, but it does not soak into the tape very quickly, and you have to re-apply it often as you are working the tape off.
The panel that was already peeling was easy to get off. The panel that was still properly affixed to its door was a lot harder. I used a wide chisel and a small scrap of wood to pry against. This enabled me to get one corner started, and then I used my hands to pull it off the rest of the way. You just have to pull evenly across the piece and work it off. I was trying to get mine off undamaged. If you don't care, it will go quicker.
I was just wondering has anyone tried using a heat gun to remove the adhesive residue? I haven't removed my cladding yet but hope to in the next few months . The heat gun seems like it would make the job easier and quicker. I could be wrong but let me know if anyone has tried it. Those 3m wheels can get costy......and I am cheap because I have to be........lol.
Yes, I tried the heat gun on settings from 300 deg to 600 deg. It made the glue stickier and harder to get off. It wanted to smear rather than come off. The colder/harder the glue is, the easier it is to get off in larger pieces.
Howdy all
I have an 04 xlt in the blue metalic with grey cladding and much like the original poster, my voyage begins with loose passengerr door cladding. I am thinking of taking all the cladding but the rear tires off and then painting those rear panel to match. Any one tried that approach?
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
