removed my lower cladding
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: L.A.
here is a couple ideas i have been thinking about, i thought about painting my cladding with a DIY bedliner stuff then if i dont like the black i can paint it white, but i want to do the trim on the bumpers too. what do you guys think would look better no cladding and paint the bumper trim white, black DIY bedliner cladding, or the DIY bedliner in white?
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
From: Luxemburg WI
This thread is back from the dead!
OK. Living in the salt belt, I knew it was only a matter of time before this cladding would have to come off. We have the Limited. The truck looked great from above. Not so from under. (Under the cladding either)
It all started when the factory running boards got spongy underfoot. Road cancer had found us. I grabbed a take off set from a 2010 SDCC at a swap meet for $200. When I tried to take the old ones off, I found out just how much cancer! The inner rockers were toast. The outer rockers looked great but when we went at them with the pick hammer they were eaten too. The parts we ordered from the catalog said they were Excursion but they weren't even close.
We got outers for the SDCC and trimmed them to fit. We also had to go with cab corners and get creative to get them to fit the gentile curve of the rear quarter. I sheared strips of 11ga stainless steel at work and drilled them to use as inner rockers. Ha! Take that rust! Lots of pics coming so here goes.
As purchased.
It all started when the factory running boards got spongy underfoot. Road cancer had found us. I grabbed a take off set from a 2010 SDCC at a swap meet for $200. When I tried to take the old ones off, I found out just how much cancer! The inner rockers were toast. The outer rockers looked great but when we went at them with the pick hammer they were eaten too. The parts we ordered from the catalog said they were Excursion but they weren't even close.
We got outers for the SDCC and trimmed them to fit. We also had to go with cab corners and get creative to get them to fit the gentile curve of the rear quarter. I sheared strips of 11ga stainless steel at work and drilled them to use as inner rockers. Ha! Take that rust! Lots of pics coming so here goes.
As purchased.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
From: Luxemburg WI
The first pic is with the corner cut out. You can see how bad the inner was and this isn't even the bad part.
The second is the cab corner we diced up to fit.
The third is the corner in and paited.
The second is the cab corner we diced up to fit.
The third is the corner in and paited.
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
From: Luxemburg WI
Here are a few shots of the inner pannels I made. Still some work to do in these pics but you get the idea.
The last picture is a small peice of the boards I will be putting on just so you would know the style.
The last picture is a small peice of the boards I will be putting on just so you would know the style.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
From: Luxemburg WI
Now since this is the wifes truck, she gets what she wants. It's ok I like it too. We decided to remove the cladding but liked the look of it so we painted the bottom of the body the cladding color. From 20 feet away, you would never know. No more crud trapping cladding and still get the look. They wanted $200 for the three band pinstripe that ford used on the 2-tones so we oppted for this $20 1/4 inch wide one. Same color as the pinstripe up top. I hope this part grows on me.
The last pic shows the holes in the rear quarters. I will be buying the XLT stone guards, painting them black for contrast (do they come black or greyish?) and so they match the boards and mud flaps. Yes I said flaps. I'm not old enough to be a fogey but I am old enough to know it costed me $3000 to fix it this far and I don't want to do it again any time soon. The body showed no signs of rust before we pulled the cladding but you could pass a beer can through the holes in the front fender behind it. We had to replace them both.
The last pic shows the holes in the rear quarters. I will be buying the XLT stone guards, painting them black for contrast (do they come black or greyish?) and so they match the boards and mud flaps. Yes I said flaps. I'm not old enough to be a fogey but I am old enough to know it costed me $3000 to fix it this far and I don't want to do it again any time soon. The body showed no signs of rust before we pulled the cladding but you could pass a beer can through the holes in the front fender behind it. We had to replace them both.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 29,909
Likes: 1
From: Virginia
Yeah that was why I was asking. Usually when you go to the dealership they want to look up parts by the VIN number which wouldn't help in my case.