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U-Joint replacement

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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 12:09 PM
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Question U-Joint replacement

Just wondering what u-joints are best for my truck. Are there certain brands to stay away from? I'm fixing my truck up bit by bit and I am doing it on a low budget-but, should I buy the good ones? Which ones are good? Can I just run down to napa and get some universal heavy duty ones? help is appreciated.
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1986 F250 XLT Lariat 4X4, 6.9L IDI, C6, ext-cab, longbox, 33" Coopers
 
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 12:35 PM
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From: patricia ab canada
I'have bought lots of parts from Napa. Never had a complaint,they have better quality stuff than the discount auto parts stores.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 12:41 PM
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napa is quality. the other chains(advanced,auto zone) have some quality but you have to do your research to find out what is good.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 01:02 PM
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spicer brand ujoints are the best for the money...i have been told Napa super strengths are made in the USA, and are fairly decent
 
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 01:38 PM
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I tried to look up cost of the dana/spicer u-joints- couldn't find. Does anybody know? I think I'll just run down to Napa, but just want to know for reference. The spicers are probably better, but they probably don't fit into my budget.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Greyf100
...i have been told Napa super strengths are made in the USA, and are fairly decent
Bingo! Well, I bought some at NAPA a year or two ago that were made in USA,
don't remember the marketing or branding names. (As an aside, Car Quest also
had USA-made variants.) First went to Pep Boys (part of the Californication of
Colorado) but all they had were these Chinese-made variants that were almost
soft enough that you could scratch a groove into 'em with your thumbnail.

Originally Posted by hilgerbeast
I tried to look up cost of the dana/spicer u-joints- couldn't find. Does anybody know? I think I'll just run down to Napa, but just want to know for reference. The spicers are probably better, but they probably don't fit into my budget.
I don't remember, exactly, but I think it was around $15/each. You might call
around any local 4x4 shops, too, I'd bet there'd be a better chance they have
Spicers in stock; you could compare costs.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 06:51 PM
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I just replaced my rear driveshaft U-joints today.
Was glad to be able to purchase -Made in USA- Precision brand universal joints from my local independent auto parts store.

$30 out the door for the pair...
 
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 07:53 PM
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I'm so glad when someone tells me about better, quality parts out there for cheaper!
 
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 08:00 PM
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i dont like precisions, i put a set in the front axle shafts of my Jeep in jan, in march i was backing into my garage in 2wd and snapped one...
 
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Greyf100
..... i was backing into my garage in 2wd and snapped one...
How the hell do you do that?
.......With no torque passing through the joint.

Never used this brand.
Hope my experience is better than yours.
The quality seemed good from a casual inspection.

Here in Connecticut we used to be the epicenter of bearing manufacture.
Torrington, Timken, New Departure, *** and others.
Plants are shuttered, people are out of work, and most of the damn things are being made overseas now...
 
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 09:06 PM
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the ujoints spit all that grease out and over heated on the highway, which resulted in the ear splitting and spitting the cap off the joint...
 
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Greyf100
the ujoints spit all that grease out and over heated on the highway, which resulted in the ear splitting and spitting the cap off the joint...
I don't think the yolk failing is the fault of the bearing.
The failed bearing I just replaced had all the needles smeared into the cup and the cross worn to perhaps 2/3's it's original diameter, and it was still pushing a 6500lb truck.

Did you try and use Moly grease in your U-joints?
That stuff is fine for extreme pressure, low speed and sliding surfaces (think ball joint) but will pack up into flakes in a heartbeat in something like a needle or ball bearing.

I've been using a Chevron lithum base NLGI #2 red grease for this sort of thing, and do the driveline at every oil change (3.5k).
 
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 08:24 AM
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the joint spit out all the grease, which caused the thing ti heat up and expand, which over stressed the ear on my shaft, causing it to split....bottom line, the single seal on the PG u joints wouldnt hold grease. The spicer joints have a triple seal holding grease in, they are also stronger. I also dont buy joints with grease fittings as they are drilled through the middle of them, removing metal from the body.
 
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