Here begins my tale of woe. As I am a Software Developer by trade, Auto Mechanics is not my strongest point. However unlike my Dad, I am not mechanically declined either. I have several questions. Perhaps, I should have used multiple threads.

I bought my wife a 1979 Ford F250 Ranger with a 351M. Maybe not quite show quality, it is a really nice truch. It ran OK, but had trouble starting. Finally, one day it wouldn't start at all. Me, the geek, determined that the carburetor was the problem. So, I set off to rebuild the stock 2BBL carb. Upon removing it from the engine, I determined that the carb was junk.

So I bought a used Edelbrock Performer intake manifold and Edelbrock 1405 carb (600 CFM) and set out to make the switch. While tearing down the engine, I discovered that the distributor was frozen in the block. I eventually removed it. Cost: one distrubutor... No big deal, it was probably OE and mostly junk anyway.

I set out to install the intake manifold. I put the prerequisite RTV Silicone goo on both sides of the Valley Pan Gasket (Turkey Pan) and then attempted to bolt on the manifold. Five of eight holes lined up. The other three did not. This is where I am at. I have the following questions.

• How can I get the RTV Silicone off of the Valley Pan Gasket without destroying it or myself?
• Is there any trick to making sure that all of the bolts line up next time I attempt to install the manifold?

Here are my considerations about distributor selection. I really this truck to reliably start, since it is my wife's truck. Therefore, I would like to convert to an electronic distributor from the origiinal points one without other major modifications. I would like to maintain the retro look; it should look like a seventies engine. I would like an increase in performance, but on the other hand this is not a racing truck; just a good looker that I want to perform well. Cost is an issue as I am currently unemployed. Anyhow, I narrowed it down to the following choices in order of apparent expense:

• Dirt Cheap and Easy Altenative - Buy a Duraspark distributor and use an GM HEI module externally. How cheap is it? I really haven't found any used Duraspark distributors that don't look like junk.
• Ebay Specials - Mostly PRO-COMP. Made in China? Cheap, but have heard more bad than good about these distributors.
• Summit Racing - Good reputation, but pricey. Two distributors seem to fit, but I am not sure which on would be best for this truck.
• Performance Distributors - A sponsor of this forum. Just a little more pricey than Summit, but custom-curved from the factory. There is also one offered on EBay for a little less money from a third party; probably not customed curved for the price. If I hear from nobody else on this post, I am sure that the Performance Distributor Guy (Girl?) will respond!

Post-distibutor issues:

• Do I need a new coil? Which ones?
• Do I need new plug wires? Which ones?

In conclusion. My goal is to get this classic up and "Busting Bugs" as soon as possible at a reasonable price, without turning it into junk. Any input from all of you knowlegable people out there will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dan Lavigueur
Rindge, NH

 

Pertronix & others make a drop in module that fits right in the dizzy taking the place of the points. You don't need anytinng else. On the manifold, I'd try a dry fit first to see whats going on there, you might just be able to drill the holes out a little.

 

I would stick with the factory dura spark it is actually a very good and trouble free setup. My 79 had the original distributor and plug wires prior to the engine swap and the truck was on its second engine. As for the valley pan I personally don't like them and don't use them I always use fel pro #1240 gaskets with a big bead of silicone instead of the valley seals. As for the carb the motorcraft 2150 is a great carb and also normally very trouble free.
-Johnboy

 

Dan-You were right! Seriously, though, we do make a very tough Duraspark distributor. Besides the custom advance curve, we use a full lenght oil impregnated bronzed bushing in the distributor housing. This keeps the shaft spinning true, which in turn, maintains a very stbale timing curve for you. It also lasts a lot longer than the stock bushings.

And we make reliable Dyna-Module and Inferno 2 coil for the duraspark. We have matched the dwell time in our module to the spark output of the coil to achieve a high level of performance and they run cool(literally) making them very reliable.

http://www.performancedistributors.c...dduraspark.htm

 

i used a wire wheel and a cordless drill to get the silicone off the valley pan. Cleaned it up nicely

 

I would NOT reuse the turkey pan. You might get away with cleaning it if you didn't torque any bolts down. As for your bolt hole issue...2X for the dry fit. Set it on the engine and check all the holes. The 4 bolts right close to the carb are a little smaller than the others. When I first put my 4bbl intake on, I didn't use the turkey pan. After a couple years, I had to take off the intake (dont remember why) and I noticed the bottom of the intake was oily. So I re-installed the intake using the turkey pan and I feel confident saying it seems to run better. Something told me the hot oil splashing the bottom of the intake wasn't a good thing. The Ford engineers had a reason for designing it that way so I wouldn't leave it out. Just my .02
I think a OEM electronic Duraspark dizzy would be great for your truck....but if I had the cash-ola.....I'd get one from one of the onsite sponsors.
Like from the people 2 posts above....

 

Hi Perf Guy,

Are the Dyna-Module and Inferno 2 coil really necessary immediately or can I get by with the stock coil for now? I have been layed off an money is tight. I can only afford the distributor and wires.

Thanks,
Dan

 

Thanks for the advice. It sounds a lot easier than scraping my brains out with a gasket scraper. I assume I can also use this method for the RTV residue on the manifold as well as the engine. I am going out to get a wire wheel for my drill right now. Stay tuned... I will let you know how I make out.

 

I agree. The engine was designed with turkey pan for a reason. Mine should be reusable after cleanup because it was never torqued down (I never got that far). This time I am going to screw some studs into the engine as I am installing it to make sure that I get it right this time. When I first attempted to put it in, I didn't realize that the turkey pan would want to drift around. Maybe that turkey is still alive ;-)

Going to go with the Performance Distributor if I can swing it.

Thanks for the advice.

 

if you are going to wire wheel the intake as well be careful since it's aluminum the block will be fine

 

just be careful of bits of the wire wheel going into the engine, i've found a single strand of wire wheel in a jammed oil pump from an intake job.

you can use 'Hylomar' or 'Anerobic Sealer' and reuse the turkey pan. i've even heard that the hylomar is reusable if you take it apart and put it back together the stuff just stays in place and works again and again. it's not cheap but a little goes a long way, i used it on my last intake re-assembly project.
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/10952/69799
i guess it works metal to metal without a gasket but i used it with gaskets just for good measure.

 

You can run our Duraspark with your stock coil and module for now.