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netral safety switch

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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 01:26 AM
  #1  
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todd jo
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netral safety switch

After a search I see a lot about the NSS has been beat to death. I did not find any procedure for testing the switch? I have a 78 ranger camper special 3/4 ton 4x 429 auto. It fits some of the symptoms , but not all. Often the gear selector must be moved around in either P or N to get it to start. Lots of the time I can hear the starter solenoid click, but no start without a jiggle of the selector. I have tried 3 solenoids, cleaned all the batt. terminals and I still have the same symptoms. Is this a wear part that is just worn out of proper adjustment, or is there a way to adjust.

I found this post post. What is the drill bit used for?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/<wbr>forums/657800-neutral-safety-<wbr>switch.html

Thanks Todd
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 09:03 AM
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Hi there, there is some adjustment avail. at the switch by loosening the 2 mounting bolts, you can then rotate the switch a small bit for "fine Tuning. As far as the drill bit goes, you use it to align the switch before mounting it on the trans, I belive it lines up and will pass through the switch when in park position, then when you put the switch on the trans it will work or just need some fine tuning. With these truck all being 30 years old and older, the switches are becomming more of an issue. I've replaced 2 on mine and have a used spare in the "junk" shelf. Sounds like you may be able to just adjust yours.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 09:28 AM
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Unplug it at the fire wall and make up a jumper wire for it, if your not sure it's the problem.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 12:40 PM
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Ok, saw you have a 1978,

Check the area where the NSS connects to the transmission, if it's got engine oil and grease in it, the NSS will need to be replaced, and the oil leak repaired.

Oil and grease (dirt etc) can get inside and cause a bad connection.

If the NSS looks clean, a slight adjustment, as said above, may be all you need.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 02:15 PM
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I borrowed a book that detailed the procedure. FWIW the procedures calls for inserting the drill with the selector in N. #43 drill is.091".

I went ahead and re-positioned the switch only to find the stud on the top mounting hole kept coming as I tightened it. With a light I was able to tell that the bottom of tapped casting is missing. Does this mean my case is fubar? Is there an adapter that bolts to the case? Dissappointed as hell. Todd
 
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