Sure, no problem.

Watch his video about "Connecting Rods.. Powder vs. Forged". He is dead wrong about how PMR's break. In addition, there is no comparing a 7.3L PMR to a 6.0L PMR. If he actually held up the two side by side, you'd see why 6.0L PMR's can handle more power (they are much larger). On top of that, 6.0L's run at higher RPM's than 7.3L's.... something he forgets to mention when he tries to claim that RPM's kill PMR's. An engine will last longer if you aren't pushing 1200 ft/lbs of torque at 1700 RPM's on a modified engine. Instead, limit the fuel on the bottom end, and mod the engine so it revs higher RPM's, lifting the power band higher in the RPM range. The rods will last much much longer. Plus when he claims that the crank pulling down on the rods is what breaks them... that's just hilarious. Never mind the compression strength those rods endure is 50 times greater than the pulling tension.

Another video is the "Bigger Tires Kill Transmissions". In that, he tries to blame the failing transmisssion on large oversized tires. A real trans builder doesn't care how much power you are putting down, or what size tires, they will still honor the warranty. In that video, he claims the tires burned up the clutches. Sorry but that's false. Tires would have taken out the torque converter first. The clutches burned up due to an improper build. In addition, he's denying the warranty work. That's flat out ripping off the customer. Even the Ford OEM transmission would last longer than one of his builds.

Then there's the whole HPOP oil change video. In that, he clearly does not understand how HEUI works in these trucks. He claims that the HPOP oil doesn't circulate with engine oil. That's not true. The HPOP oil circulates very rapidly with the engine oil.... like in a matter of seconds.

That's only a few examples, there are many more. So that's my beef with the Powerstrokehelp.com guy, and why I never recommend anyone visit his site. He has tons of misinformation, and he blatently rips off his customers.

 

Excellent points Curtis. I have to agree with you on that. Used to think the guy was informative, but after watching them more and more, it's a joke.

Not to take anything away from our sponsors, but I'm thinking of going a different direction with gauges and might get rid of what I've got now. They're black dipricols that are a very close (if not exact) match to the factory. Boost, trans, pyro in a quad (4) a-pillar gauge pod that is painted grey to match the interior. Installed new in late Feb. 2009 along with the prefabbed wiring harnesses. Nothing wrong with them at all, but I just can't convience myself that I like the gauges going up the pillar. So I'm looking into something alittle more subtle for my liking.

Shoot me a pm if interested.

 

EGT's are a result of how hard the engine is working, if they are high, dropping down a gear will raise engine rpm to maintain the same speed but the engine isn't working as hard and burning less fuel, with the higher exhuast gas flow. This is what drops the EGT's.

 

so running higher rpms = better mileage

 

Nope, running higher rpms will use more fuel overall, just the amount of fuel used per litre of exhaust gas is less, but you are creating more litres of exhaust gas at the higher rpm's.

 

So what is the actual "Red Line" on the EGT? Stock exhaust with cat. (Cali Early 99)

 

Sustained EGT's shouldn't go above 1250 degrees. Probably best to stay well below that when towing (if possible).

You can go above that in short bursts, such as drag racing or sled pulling. Quite a few sled pullers like to put electrical tape over their EGT gauge.... they don't like to watch the needle peg out 1600+ degrees.

 

I've gotten over 1500 with the stock turbo, but now I get into the 1300s tops thanks to the van turbo. Yeah, it's scary, but it'll take it for a short time. The aluminum pistons don't instantly liquefy at 1220*, it takes time for the heat to soak in.

 

hate to darg one up thats almost a year old but...

Izzy, you say they wont instantly melt at 1220*.....so how long can the temps be kept there before we have to worry? i'm not drag racing like you....just towing

 

I don't think there's a definitive answer to that question until someone puts a stopwatch on it and tests things out. Think of it like a cutting torch (oxy/acy). The flame is hot enough to cut steel, but you've got to heat the steel up enough first before you can start cutting. When cutting, the pre-heat time will depend on nozzle size, gas flow and psi, thickness of steel, and other things.

Drag racing is usually a short run. Towing is usually a much longer run at slower speeds so the danger is greater while towing than just making a quick WOT run.