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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 04:58 PM
  #61  
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To me, spot painting is not acceptable, I don't want to be able to see that there was damage. If they paint a panel, I want the whole panel painted.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 05:02 PM
  #62  
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Cart, just reading this !

Whew, somebodies (maybe everybodies !) seat cushions need cleaning after that !


I got low balled on a total one time, and they gave me the check and I gave it back, and told them to find a replacement ....

they sent me pics of two that I refused and they finally ponied up with the right check...

be nice but don't settle too easily, or ask for too little,

one rule of negotiating is to let them set the bar height, not you...
 
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 06:35 PM
  #63  
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The spot paint isn't as bad as it used to be since you have a base coat clear coat. I had some done to my old 95 one time and you couldn't tell. Being a black truck it really would stick out.

Bottom line if you are not satisfied, stay on the adjuster.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 06:47 PM
  #64  
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Good advice JD. I wouldn't let them spot it or blend it either. It probably takes more time to spot and blend than paint the whole panel.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 09:05 PM
  #65  
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Cartmanea, sorry about the wreck! Looks like the Offroad tech bumper held up pretty good though! Theres more than likely some frame damage but I assume it could be easily fixed. Look at the frame just in front of the engine crossmember, theres a big square hole there and thats where they usually bend if hit hard enough, Ive straightened alot of them bent there. Your frame looks to be shoved over in the front, and possibly shoved back on the right side. Good luck, Hopefully it all works out in your favor!
 
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 09:09 PM
  #66  
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Theres nothing wrong with the spot painting or blending, all they mean is that the color is blended so it still matches the other panel, the clear is applied over the whole panel, everything we paint gets blended, (except black) its how you make things match. You wont be able to see the area that was damaged if its done right.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 09:21 AM
  #67  
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Man sorry to hear about this, but I think you'll be able to fix it up (again) and keep it on the road. Good luck with it!
 
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 10:31 AM
  #68  
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a-rod, just wondering about black. Do you not blend because it doesn't need it or you paint the whole panel when you have black? When I was trained it was that you don't need to blend black, that you can have adjacent panels and still not need to blend, so I'm wondering if you're saying the same thing.

Cartmanea, if it were me, and it's not, it's you, I'd want as little work done to the panels as possible. As little intrusion into the paint, primer, e-coat, etc as necessary. Painting an entire panel is not always, and is very often not, the best repair.

By the way, painting a full panel just means where it meets the next panel you'll need to blend into it to make them match. Colors usually aren't perfect, yours are probably somewhat faded, etc. Take a perfect white fender and put it next to your faded door. How do you make them match? You have to paint a portion of the door (blend into the door). Then you're blending, one way or another. It's better to do as little work as possible to make them match. I'm sure there are a lot of different repair and paint procedures to get your truck back together, but again, usually you'll want the least amount of intrusion into factory painted panels. At least that's my experience/training talking.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 12:59 PM
  #69  
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Ace, your correct about the black, its the one color that doesnt need blended, black is black, unless theres a metallic in it or something like that.

Usually whites, and especially ford whites match very well, we paint alot of ford trucks for the oil field companys and we dont blend panels on those, and they always match good.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 05:26 PM
  #70  
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Thanks a-rod, I couldn't imagine you meant something else, but wanted to make sure.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 05:49 PM
  #71  
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Another adjuster came out today to look at damage that I said the first one missed. Got the other fender and hood added, other misc small stuff. Have to wait and see what they come back with.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 06:33 PM
  #72  
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NOOOO! You killed a Centurion!

Damn man, that totally sucks. Doesn't look too bad at first glance, but from the side you can see it's all pushed back.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 11:09 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Virto
NOOOO! You killed a Centurion!
Well, in all reality, the Centurion committed suicide.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 09:19 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by cartmanea
Well, in all reality, the Centurion committed suicide.
yup it sure did
 
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 12:03 PM
  #75  
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Adam, since you do collision work you may be the one to ask. After I weld on new flanges on the ends of the frame rails, what is the best product to use for recoating and corrosion protection of the frame? Last time I just shot it with black paint and it rusted in no time. Do you use something like POR-15 in your shop or something else? Also thinking about getting the frame ends LineX'd when all is said and done.
 
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