Finished headstuds, won't start.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 178
Likes: 26
From: Missouri
Finished headstuds, won't start.
I just finished putting headstuds in my '03 6.0l and I can't get it started. I've been trying for 3 days. The oil pressure gauge in the dash comes up, there's fuel in the filter housing, and I haven't let the batteries get to low. The only thing I did besides install studs was put a fuel crossover line on it and replace a couple o-rings. I did check for DTC's with my SCT and have a P0015 which is described as "exhaust cam position sensor timing, over retarded" any help/advice will be greatly appreciated.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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Hopefully this will be a "bump" and someone w/ specific experience can jump in and help. I am only reciting what I have read.
My understanding is that it is hard to prime the High Pressure Oil Pump (ie get all the air out). Some folks have said just to keep trying and it will eventually start. Others have used some starter fluid (which I do not think I would use for a variety of reasons).
BTW - your dash oil pressure is the low pressure system. Proper LPOP pressure is clearly important to the HPOP system, but other factors can prevent the HPOP from developing the pressure necessary to fire the injectors.
My understanding is that it is hard to prime the High Pressure Oil Pump (ie get all the air out). Some folks have said just to keep trying and it will eventually start. Others have used some starter fluid (which I do not think I would use for a variety of reasons).
BTW - your dash oil pressure is the low pressure system. Proper LPOP pressure is clearly important to the HPOP system, but other factors can prevent the HPOP from developing the pressure necessary to fire the injectors.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 20
May be FICM Ground Wire
There is a ground wire on the FICM harness that can be overlooked. I believe it attaches to the last intake manifold studs on the driver side. I'm assuming this is the ground for the FICM. When I did my stud install I put a piece of red tape on it so I would not forget it. You might want to verify that ground is connected.
DSMMH
DSMMH
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,103
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From: AB/BC
Did you double check that the cam sensor got plugged in after the harness was hooked up?Drivers side next to the steering pump, if it is unplugged all the swearing in the world won't start the truck.LOL
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 724
Likes: 2
From: Sarasota, fl
I've tried everything over and over again, cranked for almost like minutes, and not even a puff. When you get real sad and desperate, there is no way that you are not going for the last little string what you can find.
I grabbed the starter fluid, attached a small, clear hose to it, and stick in to the filter reminder hole, so I could crank and spray in the same time. Now you have to be careful, you dont want to lay on the sprayer! While I was cranking, I gave 2 little spray not longer than half a second each. It will start up, the RPM runs up over 1000, then it dies. After 5-6 cycle, my truck stayed running.
If you can get it running like that, try not to take it for a testdrive right away. I did, and it died at the next intersection. I've had to leave it in the middle of the road, run home for the starter, etc. Wasn't pleasant, but it started right up with it, and it's ticking since that.....
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 311
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Hook up another car (running) with jumper cables to your batteries will go dead during this process. Crank for 15 seconds stop for 30 seconds, repeat until it starts. It took me about 30 minutes to get mine going after I did my studs. At about 20 minutes I got a bad feeling but kept going, about 25 min it cranked for about 30sec. When it finally does start it needs to be driven to get the air out of the HPOP and system. Hope this helps don't give up.
Senior User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 311
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From: Clearwater
Diesel tech here, I don't know why it would take so long, in the shop as long as the batteries are good we crank for up to 30 seconds then wait 30 seconds mainly to save the starter, after 2 to 3 times of this they always start for us unless you have a high pressure oil leak somewhere or you forgot to plug something in. I have never heard of this code 0015 you are talking about. Do you have a programmer in it? Try putting it back to stock to see if it starts. Hope this helps.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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Diesel tech here, I don't know why it would take so long, in the shop as long as the batteries are good we crank for up to 30 seconds then wait 30 seconds mainly to save the starter, after 2 to 3 times of this they always start for us unless you have a high pressure oil leak somewhere or you forgot to plug something in. I have never heard of this code 0015 you are talking about. Do you have a programmer in it? Try putting it back to stock to see if it starts. Hope this helps.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2009
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From: Clearwater
No, we don't pre-prime the oil galleys, once the base oil pressure is reading, it shouldn't take longer than 30 seconds to fill the oil rails as long as you have a good steady cranking speed. That high pressure pump moves quite a bit of oil once it has its supply.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 178
Likes: 26
From: Missouri
Hey, Everybody Thanks for taking interest,. Another day of crankin" I have 3 chargers and 4 batteries and a fan on the starter, still no start. All the plugs are connected. I removed the ipr when I picked that head off, and when I replaced it I used the same o-ring, could that cause the HPOP not to prime? I started taking it apart tonight to check that ipr o-ring and I'm gonna pull the valve covers and try to fill the oil rails. I'm also gonna pull the glow plugs and spin it for a good long time. Is there any way to check for oil/air leaks while I'm in there?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 20
Hey, Everybody Thanks for taking interest,. Another day of crankin" I have 3 chargers and 4 batteries and a fan on the starter, still no start. All the plugs are connected. I removed the ipr when I picked that head off, and when I replaced it I used the same o-ring, could that cause the HPOP not to prime? I started taking it apart tonight to check that ipr o-ring and I'm gonna pull the valve covers and try to fill the oil rails. I'm also gonna pull the glow plugs and spin it for a good long time. Is there any way to check for oil/air leaks while I'm in there?
Have you checked all of the engine related fuses?
Do you have a code reader? Since the engine has not started it may not set a CEL. However, there may be codes in the PCM that could tell you the cause.
Did you pull the oil cooler out when you changed the head bolts? Under the oil cooler is a filter screen. That is the oil inlet filter for the HPOP. If it is clogged or has come apart, you HPOP will not work. When I did my stud install I pulled the oil cooler and replaced the inlet screen. The old screen was OK and had not deterioated. However, if the engine was running OK before the head bolt replacement and you did not pull the oil cooler, I would believe that it is not a HPOP priming problem and look else where, i.e. fuel or electrical.
When I replaced my head bolts, mine started right up. Had a miss and that was due to a loose fuel line at the fuel filter assembly to the passenger side head. Tightened that and she smoothed right out.
DSMMH
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 724
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From: Sarasota, fl
Did you pull the oil cooler out when you changed the head bolts? Under the oil cooler is a filter screen. That is the oil inlet filter for the HPOP. If it is clogged or has come apart, you HPOP will not work. When I did my stud install I pulled the oil cooler and replaced the inlet screen. The old screen was OK and had not deterioated. However, if the engine was running OK before the head bolt replacement and you did not pull the oil cooler, I would believe that it is not a HPOP priming problem and look else where, i.e. fuel or electrical.
When I installed my studs, and replaced the HPOP, I pulled and checked the oil cooler, and the screen was damaged bad underneath, probably the cause of my HPOP failure....
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jtharvey
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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Sep 6, 2007 12:32 PM