She will, that and the Bilsteins are about the only two mods my wife appreciates.

 

I did not take any pics! Sorry. If you search the board for sound deadner or dynamat, you will find a thread with a bunch of excellent pictures. It may be in the SuperDuty board.

I probably used about 140 sq feet, but I also did the underside of the engine hood. Actually bought 200 sq feet and a friend of my did his nissan frontier truck at the same time.

100 feet should get the job done.

Removing the headliner was extremly easy. It's just held up by 4 push plugs and the rubber door trim. Be sure and wash your hands before touching it! Also, do not remove the headliner from the cabin, it won't fit out the doors on a supercrew. Has to go out or in the back or front window. Just rest on the seat headrests and work around it.

 

Here is the link to the thread with photos

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...s-present.html

Mine did not look anywhere near that professional when it was done! But it works.

 

Thanks for the link with picks bigtexan99. We'll fore give you for not having your own.

 

I've read on some other websites about the smell associated with Fatmat since it's an asphalt base and that it tends to fall off of vertical surfaces. Have you had any of these problems? I've been looking at both Fatmat & Dynamat.

 

Nope, not with my B-Quite (Dynamat) and it has sit at boat ramps in 100 degree heat all day and still no smell and I promise you that stuff is so sticky it ain't falling off nothing.

 

Agree with you on the stickyness, can't imagine fatmat falling off, its sticky.

I have noticed a smell. In fairness, I put ALOT of that stuff in my cab. Also, I drive with the air on MAX recirculating and windows up.

The odor is weaker than the first couple of days, but it is still faintly there. Seems to be dissipating over time.

 

I will admit that mine has been in for a while now and it may have had a slight smell to start, but nothing now. I don't remember it, but it could have been.

 

I have not done this yet, but I did research sound deadeners and have three other suppliers that have good reputations for performance:

RAAMaudio
RAAMaudio - Quality and Value in Automotive Sound Deadening

Second Skin
Acoustic Vibration Dampening Mat

Cascade Audio Engineering
Cascade Audio Engineering – Sound Damping and Sound Blocking – Anything Else is a Compromise

In my research the asphalt-based materials had the most complaints. Smell and heat tolerance. Sound deadening ability is closely linked to weight, so a light-weight material will be expected to be less effective at dampening. To an extent, this can be overcome with engineering and material selection.

Reflective surfaces are good at keeping heat (or cold) on the side they are facing. Some vehicle companies have installed reflective insulating sheet near the exhaust system to keep heat out of the passenger compartment. I used reflectorized insulating "bubble wrap" in the floor and ceiling of an old E350 van and it made a world of difference in keeping it warm in the winter and cooler in the summer. When I get around to doing my F250 I want to use reflectorized deadener on both sides of my firewall and under the passenger side floorboard. Reflective surfaces work best when facing an open area or have a gap so they don't touch something on the shiny side.

Other commentators mentioned that the roof is important for powerful audio systems and general road noise. Less important for engine/exhaust noise. Doors are suprisingly important for engine noise, and obviously for audio quality. The best suggestion was to use deadener on the door skin and also use deadener to replace the water barrier between the inner door skin and the door upholstery panel.

 

An update after 4 months. The slight chemical odor that the fatmat was putting out has long since disappeared.

Everything still stuck on well.

The interesting part is that my perception of the noise quietness has gone away. I'm sure its still just as quiet, but I can't remember how noisy it sounded before.