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It depends on what component fails. It may start slipping or shifting roughly. Sometimes there isn't much if any warning.
Originally Posted by brandon_oma#692
2 How do i tell if my trans was ever replaced?
I'll let someone else answer that.
Originally Posted by brandon_oma#692
3 What can i do to prolong its life 145,000 miles currently?
You'll get differing opinions on this one. Some people will tell you there isn't much you can do. Here's what I would do. Have it flushed at regular intervals. Don't hot-rod it. Just like the old saying.."If you play, you pay."
Originally Posted by brandon_oma#692
4 when it dies rebuild or swap in a standard?
You'll definitely get some different opinions on this one. A rebuild in most cases would likely be cheaper....at first. I've had trannies rebuilt before, and half of the time it has turned out to be a nightmare. It would work for a few months, then another component would fail, and in the end I didn't save any money. I lean towards paying more up front to get a remanufactured (different than rebuilt) unit from a company that provides a warranty. Many of these have a better warranty than the truck had from the factory, and some have been upgraded to improve upon design weaknesses.
3 What can i do to prolong its life 145,000 miles currently?
4 when it dies rebuild or swap in a standard?
ok 1 and 2 i want to know too.
3 you do not shift it while it is rolling and put on the parking brake before you put it in park. you change the atf and filter and put in some Lucas trans fix
4 i am debating that. put back the trans that came with it would be easier, but the stick
will not go out, ever and is more fun to drive. also more mpg's
Oh, you meant swap it for a manual transmission. Duh. When I first read that, I thought you were comparing either rebuilding the original tranny or swapping it out for a replacement 4R100.
ya, i have a 6.8 v10. how did you know i had a gasser?
so what does this diode do?
I looked in your profile and seen what engine you have.
I spend most of my time in the 7.3 diesel form. When my trans craps out, I am going to Arkansas and get a rebuild from BTS. Brian builds a bullet proof trans. When you leave his shop, he dares you to break it. lol
Heat is the killer for the 4R100. If you tow or plow, make sure you install a REAL temperature gauge in the tranny and monitor it.
If you're plowing or doing other work that requires a lot of slow moving, use 4LOW. This will greatly reduce the strain on the transmission. If you have ESOF, read up on the modification to allow the front hubs to NOT lock and you can use 4LOW on hard pavement or in other high-traction situations where you don't want 4x4.
I have an 01 with a 7.3 and 4R100. The Oasis report covers the first 259,000 miles, since it was a Ford lease vehicle. The transmission wasn't touched in that time. I bought it with 266,000 miles and see no sign that the anything was worked on (in that short a time, you would see that the mounting bolts had been off) and it recently turned over 270,000. It still has the diode. I believe the leasee used it for trailering tires between two stores over 100 miles apart, so it was easy miles but towing.
By being careful about shifting, especially downshifting, you will really help the lifespan. My family had a 1960 T-bird with a cruise-o-matic. We got over 150k before it broke a reverse/low band, and when it was repaired, the rest of the tranny was like new. The mechanic said it was because we did not manually downshift, and always came to a complete stop before changing between forward and reverse.
Keeping the heat down with a BIG transmission cooler helps greatly if you tow at all.
Heat is the killer for the 4R100. If you tow or plow, make sure you install a REAL temperature gauge in the tranny and monitor it.
Exactly what happened to mine and I was of the opinion that only time you get gauges is when you do performance stuff, now that I have learned alot more I know better.
My family had a 1960 T-bird with a cruise-o-matic. We got over 150k before it broke a reverse/low band, and when it was repaired, the rest of the tranny was like new. The mechanic said it was because we did not manually downshift, and always came to a complete stop before changing between forward and reverse.
Good luck!
That transmission had a problem with cracking the case on a web that goes accross the bottom. It was caused by slamming into reverse to hard. If they don't crack there, they will last a long time.
Heat is the killer for the 4R100. If you tow or plow, make sure you install a REAL temperature gauge in the tranny and monitor it.
If you're plowing or doing other work that requires a lot of slow moving, use 4LOW. This will greatly reduce the strain on the transmission. If you have ESOF, read up on the modification to allow the front hubs to NOT lock and you can use 4LOW on hard pavement or in other high-traction situations where you don't want 4x4.
I have an 01 with a 7.3 and 4R100. The Oasis report covers the first 259,000 miles, since it was a Ford lease vehicle. The transmission wasn't touched in that time. I bought it with 266,000 miles and see no sign that the anything was worked on (in that short a time, you would see that the mounting bolts had been off) and it recently turned over 270,000. It still has the diode. I believe the leasee used it for trailering tires between two stores over 100 miles apart, so it was easy miles but towing.
By being careful about shifting, especially downshifting, you will really help the lifespan. My family had a 1960 T-bird with a cruise-o-matic. We got over 150k before it broke a reverse/low band, and when it was repaired, the rest of the tranny was like new. The mechanic said it was because we did not manually downshift, and always came to a complete stop before changing between forward and reverse.
Keeping the heat down with a BIG transmission cooler helps greatly if you tow at all.
Good luck!
why no down shifting? i do it all the time between OD and 3rd with the button at the end of the shifter when towing.
my trans in my 02 f550 just went today,no warning at all,i put it in reverse and the truck felt like the park brake was on. but would not move at all.put back in drive and truck moved but not untill about 3000rpms,made it to a trans shop waitng for estiment.he said that the reverse clutches stay engaged and lock together with drive. i will check with him when he opens it up tomorrow. i have 365000,klms on it,only the soliniod pack was changed at 100000 klms
my trans in my 02 f550 just went today,no warning at all,i put it in reverse and the truck felt like the park brake was on. but would not move at all.put back in drive and truck moved but not untill about 3000rpms,made it to a trans shop waitng for estiment.he said that the reverse clutches stay engaged and lock together with drive. i will check with him when he opens it up tomorrow. i have 365000,klms on it,only the soliniod pack was changed at 100000 klms