Where you cut the stock wiring, the side that comes from the stock switch goes to 85.

That lets the stock headlight switch turn the lights on and the stock dimmer switch dim the lights.

In the diagram the brown wire and all of the switches are the stock wiring in the cab.
I installed mine on the drivers side right behind the coolant recovery tank.
The harness to the drivers side light passes across the inner fender there.

If I remember right, on my 86 the headlight wires were red with black stripe and lt. green with white stripe for high and low beam.
The end coming from the cab when you cut them there would go to terminal 85.
Terminal 86 goes to ground.

Do be aware the lights draw as much power, but since the load is out of the cab after the install the draw is no longer causing as much voltage drop on the cab power supply wire.

Along with brighter lights, I find my bulbs last longer.
They are getting the voltage and amperage they were designed for.

Low voltage causes the amperage draw to increase.
60 watts of power can be 5 amps at 12 volts or 10 amps at 6 volts.
A 60 watt bulb wants 60 watts, so if the voltage drops to 10 volts at the bulb, the wire has to carry 6 amps to satisfy the bulb.
More amps means more heat generated.

 

ill double check tommorow ... today i left um hooked on through the main headlight switch witch actually was the highbeam switch ...so that i could have a way to switch um on and off ...i will double check tommorow everything again...but let me tell u wow o this thing is super bright i think i gotta adjust the headligts now cus i got the highbeams thrown at me one to many times ....but there is a night n day difference i wonder how it will be with the highlights...ouch!

 

well since i couldnt figure out why they didnt come on i removed my actual switch and connected the 85 wire to the first 12v that switched on n off n i had stated turned out to be the high light switch.

And dave i did cut the green wire that should be the low side and connected that to the 85 side that should have switched them on or off but got nothing so i figured hey it might be that i only have one wire so i spliced the other hooked them up together n hooked it back to the 85 n nothing... but i didnt check my fuses so i gotta do that tommorow.

 

ill double check tommorow ... today i left um hooked on through the main headlight switch witch actually was the highbeam switch ...so that i could have a way to switch um on and off ...i will double check tommorow everything again...but let me tell u wow o this thing is super bright i think i gotta adjust the headligts now cus i got the highbeams thrown at me one to many times ....but there is a night n day difference i wonder how it will be with the highlights...ouch!

 

Is your dimmer switch on the column?

My 86 is on the floor.
Headlight power from the switch to the dimmer switch, which then selects low or high beam.

My diagram shows 94 colors the same, and still says wires to beam select switch by the headlight wires.

All of my wiring was done under the hood.
Terminal 30 goes through a fuse straight to the battery positive terminal.
Terminal 86 goes straight to the battery negative terminal.
Terminal 85 is the supply wire from the dimmer switch, lt. green/white on one relay and red/black on the other relay.
Terminal 87 splits with one wire to each headlight, green/white from the relay with green/white on terminal 85, red/black on the relay with red/black on terminal 85.

That way the high beam indicator should still be right and on when the high beams are on.

If you had the headlight switch off when you were working on the wires you should not have a fuse problem.

Check for power at terminal 30 at all times.
Terminal 85 should have power when the headlight switch is on and either low or high beams is selected.

Right now I can't remember which color is low and which is high.

I made a few changes to the diagram in my truck.

The wires from inside the cab attach directly to the 85 terminals on the relay.
I have a 10 AWG wire from the battery positive terminal to terminal 30 on each relay.
Terminal 87 has a 12 AWG wire to each headlight, one for the red/black relay and one for the lt. green/wite relay.
Terminal 86 and the black (ground) wires on both headlight sockets were changed to 12 AWG wires that attach straight to the battery negative terminal.

Advance Auto had a nice heavy duty headlight socket with 12 AWG wire pigtails that I used to get rid of all of the tiny stock wiring.

 

green is low and red is high beam ... i will double check my work to see what is up ... as for the ground from the relay i scuffed and grounded to the fender n not the negative side of the battery which i assume wont make a differnce but i could be wrong...

 

They do indeed make backing up nice - I got tow 100W under my rear bumper, and also two 55W on the camper tie-down beams at the front lower corners of the bed, they all come on automatically with the backup lights, but I can turn them on manually as well - I can now actually see where I'm backing up, hell I can drive on these things if needed! And yes, tailgaters would absolutely hate those

 

wow this thread is back from the dead