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Could you post a pic like this of your front tires? This is how a 12.50 tire looks on a 15x10 wheel with 4 inches of backspacing......
i can get one lol...dont think mine go out that far...on the rear anyway...never really looked at the front
i found the ones i really like have 4" backspacing but i doubt that will be enough to clear the rad arms since i still havent found out how much backspacing my wheels have...like i said im probably gonna go 8 lug with it so i dont want to throw money at wheels just yet
Is there a reason you want to swap to 8 lug? 35s will be ok on your axles. The front Is easy to swap to 8 lug if you find the right parts, the rear is just a bolt in deal with the right axle too. Remember you have that sensor on the rear axle for the speedometer.
Could you post a pic like this of your front tires? This is how a 12.50 tire looks on a 15x10 wheel with 4 inches of backspacing......
Is that your Bronco or F150?
I am curious how you attached that recovery point to the wrinckled section of the frame. I am always looking for additional recovery points for these and your shackle mount looks clean.
Currently I am in the process of adding some to my 1 Ton Bronco, as well as the other Broncos I am building. Ive got to find a way to mount some recovery points similar to yours.
I do have a plan for a front mount reciever, which should be fairly universal with my front shackle mount design, and perhaps I will simply incorperate this into the hanger in the future, but I would like to see what how you have done.
It would be easy to make a recever hitch that attached the same way. In fact I was going to do that, and have the licence plate hide it, but I was working outside and this way was quicker, so I didn't get so cold. Lol.
like i said im probably gonna go 8 lug with it so i dont want to throw money at wheels just yet
I dont want to be critical or harsh, bud, but now you want to go 8 lug?
Would this not have been a good idea to discover before you started your build?
This means that all of the time and money invested in your current build is shot.
You spent some time waiting for parts, and you had to go out and look for all of the stuff to convert your drum axle to a disc brake axle.
This might have been a good time to upgrade.
I guess, everyone falls victim to this at some point or another. I just try to convince everyone to plan wisely so that money can be better spent.
Not intending to add insult to injury, but in a recent post, I suggested that I was going to build another 1 ton Bronco. I believe this was last week.
Ummm,,,,errrr,,,,,its done and already wheeling.
Just hate to see you spinning your wheels, so to speak. Ive done this, and had to reconsider my builds, or even try to plan as I go.
Ive found that proper planning, and sticking to a plan saves time and money.
This also permits me to spend more time driving the truck, and less shop time.
Ed, his plan to upgrade to an 8 lug is at least a year away. Probably more knowing him. I don't know his reasons though. Nice bronco, but it seems that a highschool student such as him has a little bit less time and money to put into a truck. Good advise though.
Is there a reason you want to swap to 8 lug? 35s will be ok on your axles. The front Is easy to swap to 8 lug if you find the right parts, the rear is just a bolt in deal with the right axle too. Remember you have that sensor on the rear axle for the speedometer.
Originally Posted by 75F350
I dont want to be critical or harsh, bud, but now you want to go 8 lug?
Would this not have been a good idea to discover before you started your build?
This means that all of the time and money invested in your current build is shot.
You spent some time waiting for parts, and you had to go out and look for all of the stuff to convert your drum axle to a disc brake axle.
This might have been a good time to upgrade.
I guess, everyone falls victim to this at some point or another. I just try to convince everyone to plan wisely so that money can be better spent.
Not intending to add insult to injury, but in a recent post, I suggested that I was going to build another 1 ton Bronco. I believe this was last week.
Ummm,,,,errrr,,,,,its done and already wheeling.
Just hate to see you spinning your wheels, so to speak. Ive done this, and had to reconsider my builds, or even try to plan as I go.
Ive found that proper planning, and sticking to a plan saves time and money.
This also permits me to spend more time driving the truck, and less shop time.
well i gotta swap gears out for 4.56 now any way so the front end will be already torn appart and the rear end carrier needs to be cut out so if i find a full float sterling it would be easier to regear that and throw it in...and i know i can get the 8 lug hubs for the front end, there are many of them at the local junk yard same as the sterling rear ends, theyre all over the place, just depends how much he wants and how much i will get in return...
You know, it the bolt is broke off that holds the pin in the rear axle, you just cut the pin enough to get the axles pushed in to pull the "C" clip. Than pull the carrior and deal with it on the bench. Most of the time gravity and a couple taps will the the busted part of that bolt fall out. Than you just need a new cross pin and bolt to hold it in place.
You know, it the bolt is broke off that holds the pin in the rear axle, you just cut the pin enough to get the axles pushed in to pull the "C" clip. Than pull the carrior and deal with it on the bench. Most of the time gravity and a couple taps will the the busted part of that bolt fall out. Than you just need a new cross pin and bolt to hold it in place. If you swap to a 10.25, you will need to recalibrate your speedo again too, it has more teeth on the tone ring...
You know, it the bolt is broke off that holds the pin in the rear axle, you just cut the pin enough to get the axles pushed in to pull the "C" clip. Than pull the carrior and deal with it on the bench. Most of the time gravity and a couple taps will the the busted part of that bolt fall out. Than you just need a new cross pin and bolt to hold it in place. If you swap to a 10.25, you will need to recalibrate your speedo again too, it has more teeth on the tone ring...
Is this true? The re-calibration? I thought they worked on the same 6 pulse signal as the 8.8. While there are more teeth due to the larger ring gear, they also had more space to provide the same pulse width.
Of the three trucks I have used this 10.25 axle for, notone required a calibration change, and the black bronco is dead on.
Maybe I got lucky???? I like lucky. Rather be lucky than good.
From what I have read on this stuff over on FSB you would have to, I have no experiance first hand though. So I can't be 100% sure. The info was from a guy I know is usually right, but if yours are spot on, I wouldn't worry about it. Lol
From what I have read on this stuff over on FSB you would have to, I have no experiance first hand though. So I can't be 100% sure. The info was from a guy I know is usually right, but if yours are spot on, I wouldn't worry about it. Lol
I guess in my case, ignorance is bliss....... Mine shift fine, and speedos are righton the money. Huh, go figure. Perhaps once I upgrade gears to a different ratio, I might find this a problem, but I suspect it would be the case for both axles.
Cross that bridge once I get there.
Can you tell me a little about your recovery points????? Very interested.
I guess in my case, ignorance is bliss....... Mine shift fine, and speedos are righton the money. Huh, go figure. Perhaps once I upgrade gears to a different ratio, I might find this a problem, but I suspect it would be the case for both axles.
Cross that bridge once I get there.
Can you tell me a little about your recovery points????? Very interested.
I have hird you dont need to change anything when you swap gears. I dont know how that can be true though...
Its 1 inch plate welded to some 3/8 plate. There are 4 1/2 inch bolts holding it to the frame.
As you can see I drilled two holes in the frame, they are about 20 inches back from the front of the frame. I welded the nuts to the 3/8 plate so its easy as pie to get the bolts snugged down.
These two bolts thread into the 1 inch plate. I drilled and tapped the holes in the front part. I figured it would make it a easier install.
Than I had to cut the bumper to fit over them. I started with small holes and started to open them up, so there wasn't a big gap around them.
Quite clean and innovative. Guess you took out the probematic crumple zones with that set up.
Unfortunately, I have through bolts in that section of frame as well as sleeves that are welded through, so passing something all the way through the frame would be impossible.
Maybe not impossible, but more difficult at this point than it is worth.
Thank you for sharing. It looks great with the bumper on. Gonna have to remember this idea. Thanks again.
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