Why not put an air locker? Even more bragging rights when you're taking poser flex pics!

I'm sure you can get that in there before you even get your tires! Haha.

 

air lockers are WAYYYY WAYYYYY too much cash to even think about...not only that but air lockers require air...my truck is not a semi it does not have a built in compressor so id have to set up something for air...even more cash...no no, an LS front and rear will do amazing things...plus lockers break **** LOL

 

LOL i got bashed in the 97-03 forum for the mention of putting an LS up front because i could get one cheap and do it myself.

 

4.10 will work well, but 4.56 will work better when you need more torque to the ground. Plus later on if you decide to go to bigger tires your gearing will still be ok. Check this gear calculator out so you can try different ratios:

4Lo.com :: Final Gear Ratio, Crawl Ratio, Tire Size Calculators


Which bolt exactly is broken? Is it the large nut holding the pinion in case and the yoke? One of the ring gear bolts? The little cross pin/bolt that holds the cross pin in the carrier? Or is it one of the 4 bearing cap bolts?

All of them are easy to fix with the right tools, just need to know what you are talking about before we give direction.

 

Kjett, ur math is a bit off, on my 94, with a E4OD trans, I run 2000 rpm with stock tires and gears, I'm puttin 33s on it, and puttin 4.56s in the axles. According to my calculator, the effective gear ratio will be 11% lower than the stock gear ratio was, witch works out to 2300 rpm at 70 mph. Therefor, u can not be turning 2400 with 35s and 4.56s and the same trans. The E4OD trans has about a .71 to 1 OD......

 

O ****, forgot to say the 2000 rpm is at 70 mph stock in OD. Can't edit the post from my Blackberry........

So if u plan an bigger than 35s down the road, I would suggest going with a 4.88 or 5.13 gear ratio in ur pickup. That way u won't be under powered when u put the bigger tires on. 33 run a 4.11 to keep it "stock" ratio, 35s 4.56s, 38s 4.88s, and if ur like me, and want a bit more power, I would run 4.88s with 35s. In fact, when I first regeard my 78, I ran 5.13s with 35s, boy that was fun. It was qwick and still had good power when I put the 39.5s on it. Just something to think about.

 

What's your point? A couple hundred rpm is not going to be an issue either way, it's when you go from say 2000rpm to 3000rpm or mor when cruising that it becomes an issue. He originally was looking at going 4.10 with the 35's and I was trying to explain that 4.56 would be a better match, you even stated in your last post that 4.56 would be the right choice for 35's.

Not trying to stsrt an argument, just pointing 9.ford.5 realized (and looks like he did) the better gear choice for all around use.



Speaking of 9.ford.5, it's Monday. You get your tires yet?

 

My point is that 2300 rpm at 70 mphn with 4.56s is wil 33s, NOT 35s, and the fact that u said u where running 2400 rpm at a lower speed with a bigger tire. It didn't add up. That's what I wanted to piont out, because with some rigs 500 rpm is a big difference. I wasn't tryin to start a fight. I was just pointin it out. And the fact that he wants bigger tires later down the road. 35s and 4.56s would be about as close to "stock" effective gear ratio. So if he plans on running bigger tire later down the road, it would be a good idea to put a lower gear in now, so he isn't under powered later down the road. If a 38 or so tire is in the future, put in at least a 4.88, I would do a 5.13 being it will be better for the 38 or so size tire that's in the plans.

 

4.10's with 35's doesn't seem bad. My truck cruises pretty comfortably at 50-55mph with 4.10's and 37's lol.

 

That's the wonders of a 460. If u had a 300 it wouldn't get up to speed so easy.

 

True True. And I have a C6, not an E4OD.

 

main reason i was thinkin 4.10 was to lower the rpm some at 70 MPH to get some better MPG, but then i remembered im working on a ZF which has a lower 5th to start with so i could go with the 4.56

its the little tiny bolt that hold the cross pin in the carrier, its broken off just enough that the cross pin wont come out...i was just gonna get a LS carrier and cut the bitch out LOL...

another "miscomunication" they got to edmonton today,not last week... why they shipped them right through lethbridge then another 6 hours north just to ship them back is beyond me...but now they are saying wednesday, and now im getting the studs AND balance beads for free

i cant wait for the studs, drove into letbridge today (about 20 miles one way, 1/2 is divided 2 lane and half is single) and all was dry, and windy as hell...then in about an hour we got over 2" of snow, it was about 10* above so it was heavy and wet, hit the road and immediately melted so the roads were wet...then in a matter of minutes the temp dropped over 10* causing a flash freeze and every paved suface in southern alberta is now covered with black ice...i was doing 30 MPH on the two lane highway and i was all over the place, and eventually wound up in the rubarb...so after that it was 4x4 the rest of the way home and i could still only hold 45MPH and i was still all over the road, but at least i was still on the road LOL

dont think it will be that bad in the first 3 gears but once i hit 50MPH it will fall on its face...but i guess we will find out, its not getting regeared any time soon either way...so im gonna have to live with it for now

 

SO no tires? WTF?

 

Some have the whole gearing concept backwards. Running the higher ratio in the axles (nemerically lower) and compensating with a low transmission gear is not the direction you want to go.
The entire reason for a lower first gear in the trans is not to make up for larger tires or a lack of mechanical advantage in the axles. This is to aid in the motivation of the vehicle under severe loads, not the other way around.
Overdrive is there so that engine RPM's can be lowered without compromising bottom end grunt while still maintaining a reasonable highway speed.
have24wheel has the right concept and more gear in the axles is never as much of a problem as not enough when we throw the off road factor in there.
If you are after mileage, then slow down. A 100 mile trip at 70 miles per hour takes a given amount of time, and that same 100 mile trip at 65 miles per hour takes about 6 minutes more. 6 miutes. WHich one will get the better mleage? Point is that you dont have to sacrifice mileage by installing a set of gears with a better than optimum ratio. More aggressive can do as well or better than the conservative highway ratios.
This is part of the reason we dont see large haulers with highway ratios like a 2.75 or something silly like that.
Ill take 4.56 gears and 35 inch tires all day long, (with a three speed auto) but the 4.88 option with an overdrive is awesome. Easier on the trans, easier on the entire drivetrain, and so much better off road. Gear reduction provides some real crazy traction and most guys that state "my stock gears are fine, even with large tires" has probably never driven a similar vehicle with a deep set of gears. (numerically higher).
Horsepower is somthing that can offset this combo, however, it is only compesation. Meaning that more horsepower and this mechanical advantage will create an even more potent combo. Dont shy away from steep gears like the 4.56, or even the 4.88. If you upgrade the trans, and keep a decent overdrive, then gear it to the moon. You will enjoy a more capable off road rig that has nice street manners.
Keep in mind that the small axles will not like the added power, nor will it take kindly to the added stress so keep that in mind when considering steep gears for the smaller axles.
Most of us that have would never go back to the terrible ratios that are being considered, or at least discussed.

 

I forgot I did this a while back, but for next time you want to upgrade to a D60:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...79-bronco.html