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I posted this in the Cool Tips thread at top of the board but I thought I'd post it here for the guys that don't check that thread on a regular basis.
This was posted on the Ford Barn by CapnJohn:
I'm not going to verify or endorse this. Draw your own conclusions.
Happy knuckle busting !
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch
and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
There's been a lot of discussion on this board and other about the best penetrating oil and I thought this was very interesting.
That's intereting data. All I know is that PB Blaster has been the best for me to get bolts/nuts loose, and that WD-40 is usually a waste of time. THanks for posting Bob.
Hum, not questioning the test results, but a couple of things come to mind, acetone I think by itself evaporates very fast so maybe the ATF keeps it in suspension and in some cases you would lose the convenience of the aerosol, unless you where to use a pressure pot type oil can?
I wish they had tested Gibbs Brand, I have always heard it was the best and very different than anything else. A few comercial shops I know use it exclusively. It is not cheap though. For bodywork, it can be sprayed on bare metal to keep it from rusting and then painted over. I was introduced to it when looking for a coating to keep polished magnesium wheels from oxidisng, which they will normally do almost before your eyes.
I wish they had tested Gibbs Brand, I have always heard it was the best and very different than anything else. A few comercial shops I know use it exclusively. It is not cheap though. For bodywork, it can be sprayed on bare metal to keep it from rusting and then painted over. I was introduced to it when looking for a coating to keep polished magnesium wheels from oxidisng, which they will normally do almost before your eyes.
I had never head of Bibbs Brand but after reading what you wrote about it, I looked it up to read up on it. I might try to order some at work and try it out. Sounds like some good stuff.Is priced a little high.
I recently mixed up a batch of approx. 75% Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel and 25% 15-40 motor oil because I ran out of everything else I had at home and didn't feel like going to the parts house. I put it in a little squirt can and to tell you the truth it works better than anything I have bought off the shelf lately.
After reading that Gibbs prevented rust on bare metal, I tried it with two other brands bought at Auto Zone and they both worked great. Freshly blasted metal setting on my garage floor all winter and no rust. Now, weather paint will ever stick to it is another question!....Rod
I should shut up, but Ive been doing this stuff for way to long. My father always
with a bottle of snake oil, me just watching with a torch. Me, I win. Kroil, all the
above, I got it. Now we are rebuilding track rollers (excavator) my kids under there
like grampy with his spray he broke all the bolts. Now I got double the trouble
Heat rules.
I gotta say PB Blaster has been the best for me, but you need to spray it on and wait a few days. Not exactly convenient, but it's better than breaking something.
For lubing anything, I like white lithium grease from liquid wrench.
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