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EGT Probe Locations...

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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 11:16 PM
  #16  
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From: Parker, CO
Is the up-pipe thick enough to take a tap? or do I need the weld-in fitting? And if I go to the manifold, is there a particular place that's better? or one to stay away from?
Chris's link shows you a good spot on the driver's side manifold. That's where mine is. As for the up-pipes, those are pretty thin, so tapping is out of the question. You can weld a bung on, but that's a tight space in there, so a clamp would work better. In all, drilling and tapping the manifold is probably the quickest and easiest of your options. If you ever have to take out the probe from the manifold, you can just close the hole with a pipe plug.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 11:18 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Pocket
Chris's link shows you a good spot on the driver's side manifold. That's where mine is. As for the up-pipes, those are pretty thin, so tapping is out of the question. You can weld a bung on, but that's a tight space in there, so a clamp would work better. In all, drilling and tapping the manifold is probably the quickest and easiest of your options. If you ever have to take out the probe from the manifold, you can just close the hole with a pipe plug.
Ummmm, no. Look at my pic -- it's tapped. Been there two years now... The up-pipes are thicker than you think.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 12:17 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Izzy351
Ummmm, no. Look at my pic -- it's tapped. Been there two years now... The up-pipes are thicker than you think.
Actually, I've seen exactly how thick the uppipes are. My first pyro was installed with the probe clamped into the uppipe. For anyone that has drilled into the uppipe, it's easy to see how thin it is.

If you trust your tap in the uppipe, then go for it. Personally, I don't recommend it since there's not enough metal there to make a consistent tap every single time (I'm sure I could screw it up pretty easily myself, I have a nasty habit of doing that on all my projects anyway ). I prefer a few more threads for a good solid installation. It's also the same reason bungs are welded to the downpipe, instead of taps being done.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 01:53 AM
  #19  
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I drilled and tapped by up-pipes with no issue. Taps with no problem and you don't have to worry about cracking your manifold or dropping shavings into it. Just my .02
 
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 06:40 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by MikeWorcester911
Thanks, Curtis...I've actually kinda been waiting for you to post here. I've read many of your most recent replies to other threads and am very impressed with your knowledge. And the fact that you're just down the road, certainly helps!

I actually work right over by the Harbor Freight in Littleton, so I just bought the right pipe tap. I'm hoping to get this changed before our trip to Phoenix, but this weather has really put a damper on my Pre-Vacation-Honey-Do-List, so the 5W isn't even ready yet.

Is the up-pipe thick enough to take a tap? or do I need the weld-in fitting? And if I go to the manifold, is there a particular place that's better? or one to stay away from?

Someday, I'll learn all the fine details of this engine!
Be careful of the tap from HF. I was given a set of them as a gift and the taper onsome of them was off just enough to be a p.i.t.a Curtis is close enough that I would borrow his just to be on the safe side. Drilling and tapping into the manifold is very easy to do.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 09:15 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by milleroutdoors
I drilled and tapped by up-pipes with no issue. Taps with no problem and you don't have to worry about cracking your manifold or dropping shavings into it. Just my .02
Agreed. Although, I wasn't worried about shavings. After I drilled, tapped, and installed the sensor, I just started the truck and let any debris just blow out through the turbo. The only trick is that you do NOT want to run the tap all the way into the up-pipe. With the tap I used, I left about 3 threads out of the top of the hole. I kept turning the tap, backing it out, go in a little more, back it out. A little more lube, then go back in. When I got about half way in with the tap, I started trial fitting the sensor adapter in the hole. A little tedious, but it only took me about 15 mins for the whole thing. I was most worried about that part of the gauge install, but the rest took WAAAY longer. LOL... Especially running the wiring neatly.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 08:26 PM
  #22  
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Thanks to all those who have helped me along the way. I moved my EGT probe this 4-day (on 48, off 96) and it was FAR easier than anticipated. I can't thank you guys enough. I'm really enjoying the work I'm doing with this truck...even though my wife isn't!

Take care and I'm sure I'll talk to you again soon! Definitely got PMS now!

 
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 08:34 PM
  #23  
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LOL... Congrats! And PMS only gets worse and more expensive.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 08:54 PM
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Just to add to what has been said above...

IH (the makers of our motors) say 1250 all day long is perfectly safe. You can tow all day at 1250 and not hurt a thing but your MPG. You can exceed 1250 for 10-40 seconds depending on how hot you were to begin with.

If you have been crusing all day at 1250, then you only have a few seconds before damage can be done.

If you have been sitting at 600 for the last few hours, then you have more time before the pistons soak up the heat.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 09:51 AM
  #25  
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Thanks for the details!
 
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