Msgtg

Until I get to the shop, took your advise and plug it in. Starts just fine for now. Have a trasnmission service to be done next week and having them check out this problem while they are at it.

Thanks

 

Again, that may not solve the whole problem...but from my point of view, it costs pennies to plug it in and by plugging it in, you're taking a big strain off of your batteries and starting system.

Let us know what they tell you.

Joe

 

Well after my hard start problems, turns out the oil change had nothing to do with it. Had truck in shop for transmission oil/filters change and dealer checked to see if I had the lasted flash (had the buzz last). Did most recent flash, think its the heat something or rather but what ever it is, it now starts like a "ford v-8" even when cold. Solved my problem!

 

Below is one of the first things recommended in the link I provided in an earlier post (it describes the heat induction flash)

Before beginning any diagnosis or parts replacement, always determine if your truck's PCM and IDM (Injector Drive Module) have been updated to the latest software. Recent changes correct hard cold start/cold smoke/poor cold running issues by energizing the injector coils during glow plug operation in order to heat the oil in the injectors. Software is VERY important to 6.0L operation.

 

Appreacite the post. This is helpful and good to know but again I ask, why was I able to start the truck in sub zero temperatures without a problem back in the day without a problem and why it is only now after five years and 100K miles that I am having this problem??

 

texan2004 -

There is a small spool valve in the top of the injector that controls the flow of high oil pressure fed to the intensifier piston in the fuel injector. That spool valve only moves .017", back and forth, on and off every time the injector fires. Many factors play in to how well that valve works such as, oil temp, oil quality, normal wear, ambient temp, and many others. As this valve ages it polishes itself inside the bore of the spool valve and as the spool valve slams back and forth it can set up the condition like a suction cup, hanging the valve to one side or the other. This uncommanded uncontrollable condition is called stiction. Mostly its a rough run cold condition but in severe cases it can be a no start or pretty harsh misfire condition. Oil that stays inside the valve on a hot engine shutdown and is allowed to cool slowly in the injector can aggravate the condition on restart, so the newest reflash uses inductive heat after shutdown to keep the oil warm, keep its viscosity low, and maximize the oil flowability to purge the oil from them. It has worked fantastic. It is an excellent preventative measure.

Hopefully it is this and not your FICM getting weak. I would make sure that your charging system has been fully checked (load test batteries and verify alternator performance) if you haven't done this already.

 

Ditto to the above. Pretty sure we shouldn't be plugging in our trucks at 60-70*. Especially when I have 2 others that start just fine without being plugged in. Plus the fact that it started just fine for the previous 3 years.

I've heard some not so great things about the latest, greatest flash. Think they will change the injectors without reflashing?

Wonder if I'll be able to get them to replace the 'good' ones at my cost while they're in there?

Anybody else see a problem with Ford still screwing with software 6 years after the engine was released? Or are they just following in Microsoft's footsteps?

 

just can't seem to get 'er dialed in, can they.

 

I do not think this is a software problem. Again I ask, why was this not a problem back in the day? I've had a number of flashes done. None caused this problem. Last time it ws flashed was probably three years ago. This problem did not start until sometime back in the fall, a full tow years and change since the last flash was done. Nothing on the vehicle has changed. This tells me that the problem is with an existing component that is wearing out or sticking for some reason. My guess is the injectors but because they are so expensive, I would prefer to know with some certainty before I move ahead with the replacing them. My other option, I suppose, is to wait until it simply will not start one morning but I susect there are some inherent dangers in doing this. Consequently, I would prefer to get it fixed now. My problem is that I do not have anyone I trust around here to do the work and I have a big problem with availabe time that is in the way of me doing this myself.

 

As stated in post # 36 - stiction develops slowly and over time due to mechanical wear.

It very well may not be your issue, but the flash upgrade can solve many (most?) stiction issues.

3 years ago they did not have the "heat induction flash".

 

cinebar stated that the flash upgrade solved his problem (post #33).

I had the flash upgrade and lost no mpg's and power stayed the same. I think most folks have issues w/ the flash when they have tuners that they did not set back to stock OR a tech that did not apply the flash properly.

As I said before - There are a number of desireable improvements in the flash. You can look at it cynically (ie Ford was still trying to get it right 4 years after coming out w/ the vehicles) OR be appreciative that they have provided improvements over the years. Also - Some folks have thought that the flash has caused FICM failures. The root cause of FICM failures looks more likely to be due to operation w/ weak charging systems and batteries (maybe some inherent issues w/ some specific "production year" FICM's themselves).

Again - it may be injectors. Pull the codes and see what they are (if there are any).

rnolloth has volunteered to help if you need it.

RogerKeyte had an injector replaced in Houston and he seems satisfied.