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Does anyone know when this latest flash was first available? I bought my Ex used about a year ago from a Ford dealer and wondered if they would have already performed this.
The easiest way to find out if you have this flash is to let your truck idle for a couple minutes when its at opperating temp.The turbo will whistle for about 10 seconds then a slight rumble with a less pronounced whistle for 10ish seconds then rumble like a big block for about the same amount of time.Then start all over again.
If you have the "buzz flash" which is the one before, you'll hear the injectors cycle, or " buzz " after you turn off the truck for @ 5 seconds. I think it was supposed to cycle the oil out of the injectors ( for better starts?) but obviously Ford came up with a better idea - Inductive heat . I got it in last fall and I would recommend it.
Wasn't this flash slightly to blame for the rash of FICM failures some of us had this winter.. because of the extra stress it put on the FICM to heat the injectors?
Wasn't this flash slightly to blame for the rash of FICM failures some of us had this winter.. because of the extra stress it put on the FICM to heat the injectors?
Some have speculated that this was the case. In all the research I have done (including Ford TSB's), it seems to point more at weak batteries and/or charging systems. If you have issues there, the extra load that the inductive heat flash uses will not help the life of the FICM. However, the root cause is really not the flash.
Some have speculated that this was the case. In all the research I have done (including Ford TSB's), it seems to point more at weak batteries and/or charging systems. If you have issues there, the extra load that the inductive heat flash uses will not help the life of the FICM. However, the root cause is really not the flash.
I have 04 f350 and last month replaced both the batteries and alternator. Just today the dealer told me my FICM is bad. The battery light on the dash has not gone out since I replace the alternator. Could it be the charging system is the reason for the failed FICM? why doesnt the light go out? the dealer wants $1200.00 to fix the truck. It had numerous problems under warranty, but he said this time is out of warranty. any suggestions?
What is the best way to check charging system? Is it as simple as using a volt meter at the battery? What should the volts be at idle and does that depend on the condition of your batteries and lights on not on and so on? What should the volts be from the alternator. Thanks
I think one of the best investments is a load tester for your batteries. This will tell you if they are healthy or not - a simple voltage check will not. Also, any auto parts store can do the test AND test your alternator amp output and voltage regulation.
When you are driving (a few minutes after startup) your alternator will kick in and at that point your voltages should be 14 to 14.4. To protect the glow plug circuitry, the alternator operation is delayed after initial startup.
Bismic I have the high idel mod how long after startup will the Alternator kick in? I know I can not get a true check of my battery with a volt meter but can I properly check Alternator operation and if so what should my reading be at the batery cables with high idel on? 06 PSD. Thanks
When you are driving (a few minutes after startup) your alternator will kick in and at that point your voltages should be 14 to 14.4. To protect the glow plug circuitry, the alternator operation is delayed after initial startup.
I need to correct my mis-information (thanks to PowerstrokeHD who provided the correct info):
In a dual alternator setup, the PCM commands ONLY the lower (secondary) alternator to be off upon initial startup. In a single alternator setup, the alternator is operational at startup (only makes sense in re-thinking it).
Here are my voltages:
Voltage w/ key off - 12.5
Voltage w/ key on engine off (after glow plug light turns off) - 12.0
Voltage after startup - 12.0
Voltage apprx. 2 minutes after startup - 13.2 (seems to steadily ramp from 12.0)
Voltage apprx. 4 minutes after startup - 13.6 (seems to slowly but steadily ramp from 13.2)
High idle operation does not seem to impact the voltage in these tests. It sure seems like there could be some computer control over the voltages, but nothing in the manuals states that this is the case for a single alternator setup.
This post came at the right time bc my new to me 2004 f250 was making the stuttered turbo whistle and i was just going to take it in to get serviced for it, so thanks again from saving me look like a jerk at the dealership. Should it cycle the turbo this way also while driving at low speeds? ie like it does when idiling.