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Pulling the motor

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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 07:53 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by tdpower
I ran across a write-up on pullling the engine (should of bookmarked it). It was pretty funny. It involved good details, a nagging wife and step by step when to drink beer. I think I saw it here so maybe somebody has the link.

I should put these in my sig. Oh I forgot obnoxious ones are not aloud!!!!!!!!!

Here's that link, Jim Rose(DZL Jim) of DIY-Injectors write up on how to remove the engine
 
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 08:15 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
You will be lucky to get more than a few thousand miles on the engine with forged rods, and a crank balanced for Powdered metal rods. They are different weight rods, and if you don't rebalance, you're going to rip that motor apart over time, it's not a matter of RPM.

Youre also going to need a new complete gasket kit, including head gaskets. It's also a good idea while you are in there to put on a new oil pan and dipstick, new main and rod bearings, you'll need rod bearings anyway since the rods are different sized, not by much, but you are going to get shadetree results if you use shadetree techniques. Do it right the first time, or be like me and have to do it again. Not fun
Please correct me if i'm wrong by all means, but in my situation I dont think I will need to have the crank balanced, I understand that the rods are of different weight, but if all of the rods are matched weight to 1000th of a gram I dont quite see the need to rebalance. Again, correct me if i'm wrong.

And on your second paragraph, i've got a good friend at the ford dealer talking care of getting those things.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 08:18 PM
  #33  
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Yeah man listen to Kris he has been thru all this before more then a couple of times to say the least. We could just take a week off and drive that way .
 
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 08:21 PM
  #34  
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you either need to remove or add weight on the counterweights of the CRANKSHAFT to match the weight of the rods swinging on the other end of the crankshaft
 
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 08:26 PM
  #35  
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 05:07 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Ziggy.
Dad for some reason doesnt want to sell it, sorry man. I thought he would, because I know how he is, I know it will just sit there in the way untill it rusts to nothing so idk man


No problem man. Give me a yell if he changes his mind.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 05:17 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 1999SuperDutyStroke
No problem man. Give me a yell if he changes his mind.
Will do man.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 07:39 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
You will be lucky to get more than a few thousand miles on the engine with forged rods, and a crank balanced for Powdered metal rods. They are different weight rods, and if you don't rebalance, you're going to rip that motor apart over time, it's not a matter of RPM.

Youre also going to need a new complete gasket kit, including head gaskets. It's also a good idea while you are in there to put on a new oil pan and dipstick, new main and rod bearings, you'll need rod bearings anyway since the rods are different sized, not by much, but you are going to get shadetree results if you use shadetree techniques. Do it right the first time, or be like me and have to do it again. Not fun
That is some GREAT advice Kris!

I have to agree 100% with ya buddy!
 
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 07:56 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Ziggy.
Geezz man, what happened to make you have to do it 3 times?

I'm thinking along the same lines as you, with a couple of other people around, you would be surprised how much time can be saved from someone else passing you a wrench and not having to climb down, or out from under something.

The other reason why I think its better to have others there is as you mentioned, checking and rechecking, then someone else check and recheck me.
Well here is how it started off in July.. My truck is a 2002 so I have PMR's..

Passenger side of block



Drivers side



Parts found on the road




So then I get a forged rod block as a replacement and install it. I get a massive oil leak on initial start up. After looking further for the source of the leak. I find its on the front cover, which of course the only way to fix was to change the front cover which requires engine removal




After removing the engine, replacing the front cover and re installation of engine, it ran great....... for about 3 months

then this happens





So now I had a complete rebuild with lots of upgraded parts and This is what I installed last week and am happy to say my truck is running again!





 
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 08:01 AM
  #40  
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Dang man sounds like you had a rough expensive time to say the least glad to see she is back to running. Thanks for the Carnage pictures.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 10:52 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Ziggy.
anything in particular you want a pic of? or are you just wanting to see what comes up?

Nothing in particular.............Let the one without the beer in his hand take the pictures though. Get that motor clean too!!!!
 
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 06:32 PM
  #42  
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Sheet, man i woulda put some JB weld or had someone MIG weld some aluminum bead right there at the crack. At least it would have been an option, not like you were going to ***** it up any more. lol

but yeah i know the feeling, im a window member too :

 
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