I just figured I'd post some of my findings from this weekend for anyone else doing their exhaust.
No tech questions from me!

My 99 2v has 118000 miles and lived in NE it's entire life. That equals rust and broken exhaust studs. Both sides of my engine have been ticking a long time, and I wanted to fix it before winter. I also didn't want to put the stock exhaust back on, so I picked up some Hedman headers and y pipe. Yeah I know their steel, but for less than $400 shipped, I figure if they last me a few years I'm doing alright.

Before I started I soaked everything in PB blaster. Then removed inner fenders and shock mounts...easy, and great for access. I had 4-5 studs broken on each side before I started. All the nuts were so rusted it took different size sockets hammered on to get a grip. Slight tighten, and each one with a nut threaded out on the top row. 1 on each side, bottom row, snapped off inside the head. 1 each side was a PITA. Vice grips took them out.

I cut all the y pipe bolts with a grinder and pulled that out. Couldn't budge the egr tube, so I disconnected it from the top to remove manifold. The rest of the broken studs came out with removers. They hammer on, cut in, and use a bigger socket to unthread the stud. Down to the 2 broken inside the block...

Of course they are on the bottom and lined up with the motor mounts. Can't get a normal drill at it. Harbor Frieght had a right angle air drill for $30! Tried using titanium bits, reverse and normal twist. Barely got anywhere before they went dull. Got a couple cobalt bits, better. Then my compressor broke a piston ring! Friend brought his compressor by, and viola! Like butter! Guess mine was low psi all day.

After step drilling to a #2 easy out I tried it, but it was twisting. Went to the next size, same thing. I'm just going to helicoil those two holes. It's the same size as some bolts for my 280z, so I have the tools and experience. Decided I'd better wait until morning so I don't screw up drilling my heads. Can't afford to totally screw up.

I was really surprised 18 of 20 studs unthreaded. Access isn't that bad after pulling the liners and shock mounts. The right angle drill and cobalt bits are a must! Hopefully all goes well tomorrow!

Any questions let me know. Even though I've had some issues this has been as bad as I expected. That's the same as when I changed my spark plugs. All the horror stories had me worried, but that wasn't bad either. This isn't any different than any other old engine I've messed with. If anyone has any comments, questions, or suggestions let me know!

Thanks for reading,
Brian

 

Great stuff Brian.

Do you have any pictures of the carnage?

Keep an eye on the Header's ball flange they are a known weak point.

 

Yeah, do NOT tighten the bolts on the ball collars too far, to the point where they are almost loose when cold. This requires double-nutting

 

I'll get some pictures in a couple days, I'm working 6 to 7ish every day this week.

I need to figure out how to get the one broken drill bit out. Of course I had to snap one in the right side stud. Before drilling it out I need to shorten some bits and resharpen them. That should be fun...

I was thinking about something with the egr today. The headers I bought don't have a port, like most of them. Easy enough to block the egr up top, but I've read some differing views on it.

Why (barring emissions) would there be any issues deleting egr if 99 was the only 2v with one? I can't see it would hurt anything since 2000 to 2005 didn't come with them.

Thoughts?

 

I finally got to work on the truck again today. Friend managed to unscrew the last stuck stud by jamming a torx bit into the pilot hole I had drilled and it came out!

Cleaned everything up and installed the new headers. Really wasnt bad at all. A couple bolts on the bottom take some open end wrench work, but pretty easy other than that. Everything cleared fine, y pipe fits up nicely. The collector bolts that came were to short, so I just bought some longer ones.

Have an issue though-
The new y pipe is too short. There's almost 2ft between the end of the y pipe and the cat flange. Guess I'll make up a pipe tomorrow.

Anybody else run into this issue? How did you work it out?

 

Took the truck to a exhaust shop today. They cut the old y pipe flange off and welded a pipe to the front of the cat, about 18in. Put the old flange on the pipe so it still unbolts from the new y pipe, just now my cat is 2ft longer.
They would have just welded 2 flanges to a pipe so I could bolt it in, but didn't have 2 of the flanges in the right size, and I don't have time this week to wait for parts. $100 bucks, got me in an hour later, and I don't have to cut or weld anything-works for me.
Truck was really loud with nothing after the y pipe on the drive over!

Anyone even reading this? I just figured I'd post findings since everyone asks questions and is never heard from again on the topic...

 

Sorry, I was reading it all, but didn't reply, giving someone else a chance to chime in.

Not sure why the pipe was so short, that's weird - is it a Crew Cab?

 

In 1999, the cat flange was located close to the cat. 2000 and newer it got moved closer to the Y. You'd have to ask Ford as to why the change.

 

Any seat of the pants performance improvement with the headers?

 

Thanks guys! Glad to know I wasn't wasting my time posting.

I drove around last night, back and forth to work, and some errands. 1st, it's been awhile since my exhaust system was decent. Longer than I thought! I still have a hole in the muffler. But I'll get to it when I can. Everything else is tight now. I haven't tried a full throttle from a dead stop yet, but it feels better. Not sure how much is the headers vs fixing gaskets, etc.

It seems like the truck isn't downshifting in places it used to. Going up a long hill by my house it used to downshift if I got on it, now it's just accelerating. Same on the highway, cruising I just ease on the thottle and go without downshifting. I don't think it's some crazy hp increase or anything, but just enough to push it over the next hump.
I know people complain about the sound, but I kinda like it. It sounds more performance than hick truck hahaha. Then again, I have a I6 280z and I6 Falcon, so I'm used to that sound.
Now to get a tuner...

 

Perfectly reflects my personal opinion on my Banks header's performance improvement on my '05 V-10 EX. Nothing earth shattering but a nice little boost all around that really shines under higher loads towing heavy in the hills.

 

I'm reading this one from the shadows, too. Pretty much every thread on here regarding headers gets my attention.

I'm interested to hear how your Headmans hold up over the long term. Hard to say no to a mere $400 set of headers. Congrats, and keep up the feedback to the rest of us.

 

About 100mi in. Checked the header bolts. All tight. I got 1/2 turn on the collector bolts, but there weren't any leaks. I did buy different bolts. I put a washer on top, 1 on the bottom, normal split lock washer, and single nut. I thought about marking everything and taking pics with a ruler against the flanges so i can tell if anything actually moves. Maybe i can find some nuts with safety wire holes, that'll keep things in place! Previous threads on headman talked about how the ball flanges used to be pretty bad, but it was supposed to have been fixed. I'm hoping that's the case! I'm driving 600mi Sunday so I guess we'll find out!

The paint that comes on the headers is just shipping paint. I got off what I could and then painted with 1200deg header paint. It's gone. You can rub the ypipe and whats left flakes off. Oh well. Almost entirely burned off. Should make for an interesting winter...

 

Thanks for checking back in and offering feedback. Keep it up please.

But...pics or it didn't happen!

 

Question for you guys- I'm putting in a fresh 5.0 into my 94 2WD 150 with shorty headers. Don't want to buy Y pipe with a cat, will an older Y pipe fit my truck? Anything flow better, like a 5.8 pipe or Lightning? I don't mind doing minor alterations/welding to make this work. TKS!