Steering problem (wheel jerks back and forth)
I have just read this thread in it's entirety. My 2002 F350 V10 with 134,500 original miles is experiencing the same drift / wander symptoms as almost everyone has complained about. I am the original owner and have replaced ball joints twice with Moog components that can be lubricated. The steering stabilizer shock has been replaced once with a Ford replacement, but I am going to replace it again with an HD aftermarket part. My four shocks are Gabrial HD and OK,. The front tires are almost new and are of a ribbed design.
Here is a difference to the problem...........My truck is a 2x4. The handling problems started after 80K. Also it seems to be worse when I tow something. The lighter the load the safer I feel. Towing my 39 foot park model trailer was a breeze when I bought it new and pulled it from Indiana to New York and the truck was also new, but when I pulled it last year for 100 miles it was a stressful drive . Correct to the Left, correct to the right, had the drunk driving feel all of the time. Had to keep the speed minus 55 mph. Steering box, power steering or front wheel bearings ?
Thx in advance.
Since you have already ruled out ball-joints (which is the usual culprit) then after checking bearings I would check play in the tie-rod ends and other steering components. Lay underneath and have someone slowly crank the steering the wheel back and forth while you look for play in all of the joints.
If all of that is tight, my last place to look would be a loose steering box. There is a procedure for tightening the box up just a bit (I did it) and you can find it easily with a search.
Good luck and let us know!
I thx you for your reply, being a two wheel drive truck eliminates most of the 4x4 BS. I am going to replace the front wheel bearings .............they are tight but I have always heard a faint " noise", I wonder if it is possible if the wheel bearing, meaning one is heating up and binding causing the computer BS to compensate and correct with some instant fix?..........the steering box IS going to be the next change.
Regards,
FT
Stewart
Stewart
I've never felt so unsafe and certain of death in any vehicle I have driven over the past 40 years. And I drove fully loaded dump trucks with NO BRAKES.
The passenger side front tire / wheel makes a weird "creaking" sound when rotated, so I'm guessing my front u-joints are shot. That makes an awful lot of sense. I'm going to print out and perform the u-joint test tomorrow and see what up.
The truck is parked in a garage 200 miles north of where I'm sitting right now. I have a 2017 Ford F150 all lined up and all I have to do is get the Ex back here with it, and myself, in one piece. Yet, like the rest of you, if I could simply FIX this damn thing I would joyously keep it and KEEP the $20K+ the 2017 F150 is going to cost me for RETIREMENT. I'm getting too old to be wrenching on my vehicles all weekend, too.
If any of you Wisconsin boys want to know about this Ex, shoot me a e-mail because it's probably going to be sitting on a Ford dealer's lot real soon. It's a REAL NICE TRUCK in DAMN FINE CONDITION which is RARE for a 13 old truck in Wisconsin.
SO effin' frustrated.
Shockwave
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I should add that I had them flush and fill the PS pump. After that, I didn't notice any issues for about 10 days. But then it all started again.
The front half shaft u joints are easy to check, with the vehicle in park, make sure vehicle is not in 4 wheel drive, then turn the steering to left or right to the stop exposing the u joint you are checking, grab the u joint and attempt to turn the half shaft. A normal functional u joint will turn with very little resistance. However a seized u joint one will not be able to turn at all or at best extremely difficult to turn. On my vehicle one could not turn the half shaft at all by hand. If the wheels are straight the u joints are straight and have no effect, so the wheels must be turned to check the u joints. I'm ashamed to admit it but I never changed the steering fluid or had to as it still looks good.
I found a temporary fix when it started acting up, first regain control, pull to the side of the road when safe then stop, put the vehicle in N or P with foot on brake, then turn the steering fully to the left stop then fully to the right stop after which the vehicle would operate normally until the next cold start cycle.
In the case of the 2 wheel drive I might expect that the problem is more of an drifting or wandering rather a violent yanking of the steering. Causes could be worn gear box, intermittent pump pressure or extremely poor fluid but then again it might be a wheel bearing problem.
The front end jerks from left to right and you can take your hands off the steering wheel and see the wheel going right, left, right, left, etc. Sometimes it is worse than others and seems be get better when it warms up. It is impossible to control and looks like you might be drunk going down the road.
I searched posts for hours with no answers so it would be appreciated if someone knows what causes it. I did see a couple posts with the same problem but they had no answers.
There is something physically pushing the wheel left and right about once every second.

It's not the U-joints either because they are both spinning freely by hand and it is in 2 wheel drive. This problem comes and goes, sometimes it acts normal and sometimes the wheel almost violently jerks back and forth. It is usually worse when it is cold.
Also, when coming out of a 90 turn at an intersection, I'd have to steer my X All the way back to straight with my hands... not the usual vehicle coming out of the turn with the steering wheel slipping through loose gripped hands on the steering wheel until straight... understand???
This went on for a couple of months from mid summer to the beginning of fall... I thought it was power steering related... until the violent episode occurred. As soon as I limped home, I put the front end up on jack stands to inspect the front suspension & steering linkage... tight as it should be. I spun the wheel on the drivers side... both free and locked manually... no issues. Both straight and turned... no issues.
Did the same to the passenger side... something was slightly binding in 2wd and totally binding in 4wd. I was having a difficult time moving the hub dial so I removed the esof locking hub and a bunch of parts fell on the floor... the locking hub was destroyed.
I had been planning to pull apart the entire DANA 50 axle to change out the inner axle tube seals (the seals closest to the differential housing that keep the gear oil in the diff housing) due to gear oil leaking from the drivers side axle tube. I had been accumulating the parts for a total rebuild. I could not wait any longer.
While ordering the inner seals, ujoints and new axle stub ends (I had a feeling that the surface of where the axle stub end rides on the inner hub bearing would be scarred up... it was) I spoke with Ammon at Ventures Truck Parts in Utah... He confirmed my suspicions about the inner hub bearings. (I also had confirmed this issue when I tore down the DANA 50).
I also put in new Timkin Hubs, Dorman ESOF lockout hubs, new knuckle seals along with the "dust seals" at the axle tube ends, new DANA greasable ujoints. I thought about doing my ball joints again, but they were solid since I replaced the OEM with MOOG greasable units in 2009.
My ball joint thread link: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7674608
Well... When my violent episode occurred I got on FTE and searched until I found this thread.
Earlier in the summer when he rhythmic pulling occurred, I thought it was powersteering related... something hydraulic. This was not the case at all. It was the two frozen Ujoint caps on the inner axle ears. (I found this out when I pressed out the passenger side ujoint) AND the axle stub surface where the inner hub bearing ride.
I am extremely proud I was able diagnose and fix this problem... Saving myself a bunch of cash and getting nice a 20 ton shop press to boot. I'm retiring after 32 years as a PE teacher and coach in June. I want to keep my X as long as possible. My youngest son went with me on the trip to purchase it 11 years ago and he informed me he wants to drive it when he turns 16 in January. My two older sons (19 & 17) want nothing to do with driving the King of SUVs but the youngest son has spent a ton of miles in the X while traveling to travel hockey games and tournaments. It is part of his life... It will be his to drive... the safest vehicle to drive due to it's size... it is fixed and safe again... in the fine weather months of the year.... I plan to purchase a convertible SHELBY GT500 with my early retirement incentive.
The answers you seek are in the thread.

Stewart
) problem also. I have a '05 F350, PS,SB,DRW,4X4 with 125K miles and the steering has started to do this intermittent weird thing (could be only a cold issue) where you start out driving for the day and as you are going straight down the highway (speed seems not an element) you make a slight steering correction left or right, it will want to pull in that direction. So you make a correction in the opposite direction and it will want to resist your attempts to correct. So you will force the steering with a little more correction and it will resist but then it will over correct and start pulling in the direction you were trying to force and make it go in. So now you are steering back the other way and again its resisting your efforts to steer straight. It is not a rhythmic wobble, there does not seem to be anything rhythmic about it. Just seems that it wants to fight you steering the vehicle in a straight line (gremlins
). Since the problem is defiantly intermittent its hard to say but I think that I found that if I stop the vehicle and turn the steering all the way left, then all the way right and back to center the problem will be fixed for the rest of the time until stop and let things cool down (not sure whether the cooling down is part of the problem). With 40 years working on my own vehicles I've never seen or heard of anything like this.Tires are newer (less then 8000 mi), tie rod ends tight(right one just replaced), ball joints tight (originally replaced at 25K mi), front end seems generally tight, hubs are ok. The only problem other then this gremlin is I feel the steering gear box is internally loose. The original gear box was replaced underwarrenty at 30K mi because it was excessively loose and now the replacement has loosen up.
I'm wondering whether there are problems with the valves in the gear box beginning to stick because of high miles. Has anyone tried replacing their steering gear box to fix this problem and if so, did that fix the problem? Also is anyone using the Red Hat gear box in a '05 or newer truck?
no way they are not worn out
Check them again, I will assume you know how
Also look at the track bar bushings
Worn leaf spring bushings








