Thanks everyone for your help, I guess I will have to take it to a shop when I can afford it to solve this mystery...............Brent

 

NO I mean the hyd brake booster where the master cyl bolts to. I don't know if the v10 has one. but my 6.0 does. I would ck for leaks or kink hoses sometimes the booster will leak inturnal and cause wierd problems like making the brakes apply. you could ck the p/s pump presure.

 

I replaced the fluid today with the recommended Mercon ATF and I will drive 100 miles tomorrow so we'll see. It smelled burnt but no signs of water. If you don't hear from me you will know it still does it about 1/2 the time (or you will be the hero).

 

I drove it 120 miles today after changing the ATF in the steering (2 quarts). It ran fine except 1 little wander session that lasted 5 minutes. It is working much better. Thanks Cbradford.

 

Thanks for getting back to all of us and glad to here it's working better.

 

Glad to hear it's better. It sounds like you should still take it to a shop.

 

hello, i have ben having the same thing happening with my truck.
after replacing a bad tie-rod it still happened. i was searching the net for
answers when i landed on this site. nothing i found seemed to solve it.
i was just laying in front of my truck looking at the steering parts when i noticed something. there was rub marks at the radius arm mounting bracket on the frame. the radius arm is the bar connecting the front Axel to the frame. the bushing was bad and the bracket needs to be replaced. so i went to the part store and wile talking to the guy there
(lucky me he is a ford guy) told me that that will cause the problems i have ben having. i got the bushing but the bracket is a dealer part so now i need to wait until monday to get it.
even if the fluid changed seemed to work i would still check the radius arm mount to make sure. my truck would some times go a month without jerking the wheel out of my hands then wham it would happen again.

 

I am suffering the same problem, after being told it was the valve in the gear box, i had the steering gear box rebuilt and tested then flushed the fluid. It got better but still does the same thing. My dad said that ford had problems with the ps pumps and i happen to have one new a guy at work gave me so i am going to try that and also try changing to mobil 1 atf as i hear that helps.all my ball joints are new,just replaced the tie rods. and when you take the steering stabilizer shock off it gets worse.

 

Has there been a definite fix for this? I have an '02 F-250 with the same "Jerking" problem. Ball joints, tie-rods, bearings all good. It has lockout hubs, so it's not that. Flushed the system with new fluid, fixed for a while, now it's doing it again. I did notice, when I purged the air per the service manual, it quit for some time, now it's doing it again. The truck has 104K and this has been a problem since 100k.

 

I have been having the the same problem with my 2004. I have had the hubs changed, ball joints, tie rods, all replaced. I still have the same problem. I hope someone can help!

 

This sounds like what is known in the Jeep world as 'Death Wobble'. It's possible that what you guys are feeling is the wheels rapidly turning left then right, wobbling, rapidly.

 

I am thinking its the front u joints. because when the problem starts if you put the truck in 4 wheel high it stops doing it.And gos back to normal even when you take it out of 4 wheel drive.I heard there is a problem with the power steering pumps in these trucks,i got a new one on the shelf i am going to change next along with mobil 1 atf.

 

I have had the u joints changed and no change. One thing different, when I put it into 4 wheel drive it gets worse!

 

This is definetly "WAG" (wild @ssed guess). Could your brake calipers be dragging sometimes from bound pins or hot spots?

 

It's not the hubs, I have manual hubs and they are spinning free. It did stop after I flushed the pwrsteering system. The manual says to turn the wheels left to right with the cap off to purge the air. Works great after doing that, then it starts again after 100 miles or so. I don't want to replace the wrong part, that could get costly. If need be, to be safe, I might replace pump, gearbox, and hoses. I just wish someone had a fix.