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Here is my follow up. Drove the truck Saturday. Uncommanded wheel inputs were worse. Got it home, looked every thing over. On a hunch I elected to spray the u-joints and let it set overnight. ( it was cheap, and I couldn't really do anything else to it 'til yesterday anyway) Test drove it Sunday and it was better but didn't want to push it. Drove again yesterday and pushed it a bit since I was close to the shop. No issues. Further detailed inspection revealed that indeed the u-joints are binding. Installing new ones today. ( I suspected the right was the worst of the 2 because the issue was always brought on by a left turn after a stop) I'm not saying that P/S pumps are not the issue. It just does not appear to be the case with my truck. Will post again after I repairs are done and get to drive it.
Here is my follow up. Drove the truck Saturday. Uncommanded wheel inputs were worse. Got it home, looked every thing over. On a hunch I elected to spray the u-joints and let it set overnight. ( it was cheap, and I couldn't really do anything else to it 'til yesterday anyway) Test drove it Sunday and it was better but didn't want to push it. Drove again yesterday and pushed it a bit since I was close to the shop. No issues. Further detailed inspection revealed that indeed the u-joints are binding. Installing new ones today. ( I suspected the right was the worst of the 2 because the issue was always brought on by a left turn after a stop) I'm not saying that P/S pumps are not the issue. It just does not appear to be the case with my truck. Will post again after I repairs are done and get to drive it.
Just spraying won't do much, you need to make tight circles in a parking lot , spray, etc etc etc. Also you can tie a rag soaked in atf through the joint and drive for 50+ miles. Everybody just sprays penetrating oil on things but it is a bad idea. There are better ways to use it.
Maybe, because there is a spool valve in the PS box that could be affected. Unfortunately I replaced the PS pump at the same time as freeing up the U-joints so it has been somewhat of a mystery as to what the problem really was.
My problem started with a loud POP!, while making a left hand turn. Next thing I knew, my truck shot right into oncoming traffic! I had to throw my shorts out, let me tell ya! I've searched and searched and hopefully found my answers here! If so, I owe all of ya a beer!
Funny thing is, I tore the entire drivers side apart, replaced ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel seals and u-joint, the ball joints were bad, but did seals and u-joint simply because I was there! The same problem continues, though it looks like I'm on the right track! I need to take a poll here, how many can say "if I didn't have ***** for luck! I wouldn't have any!" All I had to do is start with passenger side....I think! The truck can almost drive itself, left, right, left, right....
After reading the posts, I will continue with passenger side tomorrow!
I'm a bit surprised that my truck would show issues like this with the low mileage it has, but shame on me for missing the grease fittings at the axle u-joints!
well i will add my thought.... Ive just learned the power assist valve is in the steering box... not the pump( most trucks) it may be something related.. the cold may amplify the result of a bad or mis behaving valve... just a thought
well i will add my thought.... Ive just learned the power assist valve is in the steering box... not the pump( most trucks) it may be something related.. the cold may amplify the result of a bad or mis behaving valve... just a thought
Sorry, that's not it. It is believed to be the U-joints by the majority. They bind up and slow and speed up one wheel as the joint goes through it's rotating cycle. That valve is in the PS box but isn't affected that way by the coldness.
Well, I had this exact issue raise it's ugly head yesterday on my '04 6.0 Excursion w/ 118k miles. My wife said it was doing something weird, and I suspected the brakes as I just had to replace a seizing rear caliper. I drove it today, & it was just as ExV10 described it. If you take your Hands off the wheels, it will rotate between 10 & 2 o'clock back & forth going slowly down the road. I got a pretty good clunk out of the front end trying to turn in a parking lot with a lot of resistance. It was much worse at first when cold, then seemingly got better. Was equally as bad after stopping & I came out of a store after 40 minutes to start, then got better again.
I lubed up the u-joint as best I could (nipple was pretty seized up, but I was able to free it up). The truck drove 90% better immediately after lubing them up (although it was the right one that was seized up). I can still feel it grab a little on hard turns, but it isn't binding up & affecting the steering after the turn. I will lube again tomorrow, & see how it drives. I may need new U joints, but I am pretty certain this is the route of the problem originally outlined by ExV10.
Thanks for all the posts - this could have been a long head scratcher, as I would have originally suspected the PS pump, or steering box.
Just one thing I might add as an easy check for future reference, have the truck parked in two wheel drive and turn the steering wheel all the way to the left or right side to get access to the left and right side half shafts then try to turn them by hand. If it is impossible to turn or require Extreme force you have a u-joint problems, should only be slight effort required to turn the shafts in 2W drive.
Note I also found the wheel bearing hub loose and noisy on the same side as the bad u-joint, not sure whether one contributed to the failure of the other but once your in there you might as well replace the bearing hub if there are any questions about its condition. While in there you will mostly likely will find the Diff tube end seal worn out(torn, common problem) so you might plan for this also. Then there are the hubs seals and re-grease while your there also. Note, the steering "possession" by gremlins has been gone for years never to have return and never had to do anything with steering gear box or pump both are original with 170K miles on them.
I just like doing the job ONCE and not going bad in a few miles down the road for something else. Although the stealer-ships like doing it this way because they can collect 2-3X the labor charges... I just want to do the job once!!
Man I have the same damn thing going on! I have a 99 f250 with 80k 7.3l. Started this problem and no one can fix it! Now I simply don't drive it! What a waste 80k mile truck in mint condition! Mechanic replaced hubs, mechanic replaced front end, mechanic replaced gears in front pumpkin , mechanic replaced front u joint! Nothing fixed it! My tires are older I'm leaning that way? I'd replace the steering box if I could find out if that's really it! I'll have replaced everything on truck and it'll still jerk the wheel out of my hand! Anyone please help before I drive the truck into the river and call my insurance company!
Man I have the same damn thing going on! I have a 99 f250 with 80k 7.3l. Started this problem and no one can fix it! Now I simply don't drive it! What a waste 80k mile truck in mint condition! Mechanic replaced hubs, mechanic replaced front end, mechanic replaced gears in front pumpkin , mechanic replaced front u joint! Nothing fixed it! My tires are older I'm leaning that way? I'd replace the steering box if I could find out if that's really it! I'll have replaced everything on truck and it'll still jerk the wheel out of my hand! Anyone please help before I drive the truck into the river and call my insurance company!
WELCOME to the world of XXXs Unfortunately, you will not hear back from Brent.
WELCOME to the world of XXXs Unfortunately, you will not hear back from Brent.
You indicated the "front u-joint" was replaced, I believe the solution found was the u-joints in the half shafts going to the front wheels. The u-joints that are visible at the steering knuckles by the wheels, not the front drive shaft from the transfer case.
That is if I've read this post correctly.
I had the same issue on the first truck I ever owned, an 80 K5 Blazer.
The steering would jerk after turns. The u-joints where shot in the front half shafts.