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Well my IDM and Truck are both still kickin at the moment. The stock resistor didn't want to come out easy for me and i had to play with it pocket knife to get it off.
Truck seems to have more throttle response and overall driveability is way up. Looks like it was a success!!
brooksbronco17, CONGRATULATIONS!!!
on a successful IDM mod. I'm glad I was able to help you do this mod. The tip I gave about adding more solder to the ends of the resistor chip usually helps quite a bit, so you can just push it aside with the soldering iron tip.
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luftwaffer, What tjbeggs said is correct to mod the IDM up to later model 140v specs. for our 7.3's. If you could get a schematic and part list you could find the value of the original resistor, or if you know a electronic tech. they could tell you the value of the old resistor, or just Ohm it out.
Last three numbers of IDM serial number is current volts
Here they are: IDM-100 uses a 75.0k Ohm (75,000 ohm) 1/2 watt 1% tolerance Metal Film resistor IDM-110 uses a 75.0k Ohm (75,000) 1/2 watt 1% tolerance Metal Film resistor IDM-120 uses a 73.2k Ohm (73,200) 1/2 watt 1% tolerance Metal Film resistor
here is my Question are the 75K Ohm and 73.2K Ohm what the stock IDM uses or is that what is needed to bump it up to 140? If these are not the stock numbers than just for $its and giggles what are the stock numbers for this resistor. I am asking this because if the stock app calls for the 75K Ohm and we are replacing it with a 75K Ohm we have done nothing but replaced a aged componet with a new one. (not always a bad thing) What I see is the 100/110 uses the same Ohm value but the 120 calls for a different value. The IDM number is the output and we are all wanting to make them into a 140. In a stock setting they would have different values like the 75 to the 73.2. If these are stock numbers then to make a 100 into a 120 you take out the stock componet and replace it with a 73.2 and to make it a 140 you would replace it with a 71.4K Ohm. I believe in this mod and I want to do it. I just want some more info about what I am changing from and into.<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
I think that your thoughts are right, I made myself the same question.
This is for the part numbers of the different resistors, maybe helps you: <?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:shape style="WIDTH: 480pt; HEIGHT: 175.5pt" id=_x0000_i1025 alt="" type="#_x0000_t75"><v:imagedata o:href="http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Truck%20Stuff/IDM%20Mod/IMG_1003.jpg" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\Usr\CONFIG~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip _image001.jpg"></v:imagedata></v:shape>
Well this is my first post here names chase after looking through many differnt powerstroke forum boards I settled here great info and after following this thread I did the idm mod tonight waiting for the silicoe to set up try it out in the morning it was very easy after reading the info here I'm also going to try the10k and 22k mods tomorrow ill let you know how it works oh yeah my truck is a white 97 f350 crew cab 2wd cold air intake straight piped and now the idm mod ill try to post pics asap
Alrighty, I know this is an older thread, but I'm wanting to know how this mod has held up on ya'lls trucks. My cousin and I have just purchased a 94 powerstroke, 5-speed 4x4. it didn't run, we done some diagnostics and we determined it was the IDM, ripped it apart and found a busted Inductor. So i'm fixing to order that, and I figured while I was at it i'd buy the resister and do this mod.
Alrighty, I know this is an older thread, but I'm wanting to know how this mod has held up on ya'lls trucks. My cousin and I have just purchased a 94 powerstroke, 5-speed 4x4. it didn't run, we done some diagnostics and we determined it was the IDM, ripped it apart and found a busted Inductor. So i'm fixing to order that, and I figured while I was at it i'd buy the resister and do this mod.
I did it about the same time as Scott. Still works fine, but if you're going to buy one, I'd just buy a 120V out of a superdooty and not worry about modding it. I've got a 120 as a spare under my seat.
Oh I didn't mean I'm buying another IDM, I'm fixing this one if possible, so I'm gonna replace that Inductor then I'll plug it back into the truck if it runs I'll rip it back off and swap the resister out.
Another thing,i found it to be easier to remove the cover off of the IDM if a razor blade is used in between the cover and the box slicing down the crack,i got mine off good without any damage at all.
I don't know Mike, when I did mine I did all the steps except the soldering. I had a TV repair man do it for me. I also had a spare IDM on hand in case something screwed up. This will give you a bump any way, good luck.
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