When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
73 429. Planning on getting them redone with arp bolts. How much hp will they take? Or should I buy aftermarket? The cheaper eagles are just over $300 but I am building my truck from the ground up and need to save money if I can but don't want to cut corners. Just dont need any overkill. Planning on 9.5-1 comp. and port the exhaust side of heads. With a good cam and intake. Should go around 400 HP!!!!
How about a 460 crank ? You are going to buy pistons anyways. I'd look for a set of the truck rods, "foot ball head" rods if you are going to rework a set.
Yeah I've been thinking about the 460 crank or a stroker crank. You can buy the for around $275. I don't know anything about a stroker in the fords since this will be my first ford build. Do you have to clearence the block or rods for the stroker cranks? If Im going to buy a new crank might as well get in the 500 cubes area. If It doesnt take a boat load of machining. I guess I really need to talk to my machinest. Block is done. Magged,dipped,blasted and bored .30 over.
When I built my 429 I bought new rods from ford racing. They are the HD truck rods. Part number M-6200-A75. I googled it and some places are $99 for a set brand new. I bet it would be more for machining the old ones. That is why I bought new ones.
What kind of RPM's are you planning on running? That will be the big killer of the rods. My guess is the new Ford rods will not have the same strength rod bolt as the ARP bolt but it won't really matter unless your spinning the engine high and at that point I would just go with after market rods for $300. It sounds like your plans are for a nice mild build and I would suspect the new ford rods would be fine for your application.
Yes they came with the bolts in them. If you change the bolts you have to have it resized. I just put the new ones in. They are the strongest Ford rods. I would spend the money you save on having it balanced. That is what I did.
Yeah I am getting everything balanced. I'll probally go with the eagle rods. Might be overkill but for the money rods are not where you should be cheap.By the time I pay for the rods plus shipping then changing to arp bolts and then resizing it will be cheaper with the eagles. Just woundered if the car rods with arp bolts would work. I dont plan on spinning it over 6000 rmp but it will only see that every now and then. Dont want to spend all that money and go cheap on the rods and go BOOM over a couple hundered dollars.
I agree that the rods is not somewhere to go cheap. Mine is just a daily driver in the winter and I brought the comression down to around 8.5 with aluminum heads and dish pistons. I was looking for some power with longevity. If you are going to push it I would go with the eagle rods also. Have fun.
Yeah I've been thinking about the 460 crank or a stroker crank. You can buy the for around $275. I don't know anything about a stroker in the fords since this will be my first ford build. Do you have to clearence the block or rods for the stroker cranks? If Im going to buy a new crank might as well get in the 500 cubes area. If It doesnt take a boat load of machining. I guess I really need to talk to my machinest. Block is done. Magged,dipped,blasted and bored .30 over.
to answer your question, unless your running alum rods ona 4.5" crank you don't need to clearence the blocks to run strokers.
Beyond that, factory rods will survive 400hp and 6000rpm even without arp bolts. The "football" will survive even better of coarse, but 400hp is only 35 more then factory rating in the early years of the 460 and even less of what the scj motors where and they didn't even use anything special for rod bolts (even the street boss motors didn't use fancy bolts). the truck, and CJ/SCJ "football" rods are basically the same thing. So good bolts and a good balance job and your good to go.
Ok, Thanks. I will just use my 429 crank and rods. Sometimes I get off track. Just want 400hp or a little more. I had a 69 429 385 hp and loved it. I think for what I want the 429 will be fine. Just had some guys saying use a 460 crank but I seen I could get a stroker for the same price and If I used a stroker I would porbally go wild with the engine and defeat the purpose I am looking for. And will save some money since I am not only building the engine but the whole truck from the ground up. Man Im going to have a boat load in it but thats what I want. I already have a street strip car that barley gets driven so I need to stay more street freindly with the truck. Thanks to all that posted.
you can use the 460 crank and gain the 31 cubes and use the stock rods with it and have that all balanced. Only real advantage to running a 429 is some people think it sounds cooler to have a 429 then it does to have a 460. Basically a 460 is a stroker version of a 429 (not really but in a way it is since it's same bore just longer stroke)
Actually a 460 usually has lighter pistons anyway so that is an advantage.
I already have the crank out of my 429 and it just needs turned. Just trying to keep the cost down without sacrificing durability.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
When I built my 429 I thought about putting the 460 crank and pistons in it but just had to turn the crank .010 under to clean it up. My thought was it ran over 100k in the 70 tbird I pulled it out of in 88. That it should stay a set like it came from ford. Might be weird I know. I would recomend the new rods. They saved me money on machine work and are stronger than the originals. It's your motor though, do it like you want. With the .030 over pistons its now like a 434. LOL