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Mine is also a 2002, F-250, 4x4, but my DB HT unit slid right in with no grinding required.
For Les in an earlier post, I tried finding a unit built in the good ole USA, but could not find a comparable unit to the DB. Due to the emergency at the time I purchased a new starter from NAPA and it left me stranded in a mall a short time later on a Sat. evening. Got that one replaced from NAPA the next day and on Monday ordered my DB unit - it arrived three days later (standard shipping).
Lots of miles later and the DB unit is still spinning the engine over as if it was new.
Comment on hard starting: Do not overlook the alternator when troubleshooting hard starting. It may produce enough to slowly turn the engine and eventually crank, but may not produce enough volts/amps to maintain proper volts, etc. on the sensors. A buddy of mine ('99 F250) was in the shop for nine days and it turned out to be the alternator. Now it runs like a champ.
Thanks guys,
Ihud,
Alas, I do understand. I wonder sometimes what has happened to the quality of some of the products we produce. I'm by no means a protectionist, but everytime I go into a hardware store, it seems every tool or part is made in China. I almost wish Nixon had never gone there.
Hey do you guys remember seeing a lable on your starters with a model # or howbout on your invoices? Im just trying to confirm at this point to make sure I got the right HT starter...
I will probably turn out as usual....Im a retarded mechanic
My invoice says Item # SND0355/17802 Ford 7.3 Diesel Starter Powerstroke Truck High Torque 2001-06
Same as what you posted on the other thread. I don't know what you could possibly be doing wrong, but you got the correct part #. Assuming the correct part is in the box, it is kind of a no brainer to put the new one in; unless you need to notch the cross member for clearance.
My invoice says Item # SND0355/17802 Ford 7.3 Diesel Starter Powerstroke Truck High Torque 2001-06
Same as what you posted on the other thread. I don't know what you could possibly be doing wrong, but you got the correct part #. Assuming the correct part is in the box, it is kind of a no brainer to put the new one in; unless you need to notch the cross member for clearance.
Looks like I am going to have to grind the crossmember. Looks like 1/4 to 1/2 inch though. Gota nother prob. the solenoid wire connector broke in half. looks like it was corroding. Now gotta figure out how to slpice it.
Well mine is a 4wd CC LB and it didn't *need* to be notched. But I ground a little out anyway because it was so close (probably on .070 or .080), didn't want it hitting when things started moving around.
From what I've seen in other posts, the grinding seems to be more typically required on 4WD trucks, but it also seems like the earlier eyars of the 2wd trucks may also need it. On the 2WD trucks, it might be an issue of which factory they were built in, but that's a purely speculative comment.
I did not need to do any grinding at all on my truck (2002 2WD, CC, SRW, SB, Kentucky Built).
From what I've seen in other posts, the grinding seems to be more typically required on 4WD trucks, but it also seems like the earlier eyars of the 2wd trucks may also need it. On the 2WD trucks, it might be an issue of which factory they were built in, but that's a purely speculative comment.
I did not need to do any grinding at all on my truck (2002 2WD, CC, SRW, SB, Kentucky Built).
Yeah, mines a 02 4X4. Looks like I will have to notch the lip off in that area to get it in. Thinking back, I had an accident in the front end back in 06. The truck went back to the dealer and was put on a frame machine. All was straight. When Im under the truck everything looks in place. Stupid question but, I wonder if things moved back just a bit??