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Yes the 4 1/2 angle grinder will work, that is what I used. I had to grind a spot about 2 1/2 or 2 3/4'' wide and only about 3/16 into the crossmember. I just wiped it of afterwards with a rag with a little diesel on it, then brushed some black paint on it.
vettdvr--mine is a 4wd, not much grinding as mentioned-and no this is not near enough to weaken the crossmember.
Some have to grind, some dont, each one seems a little different.
Mine is also a 2002, F-250, 4x4, but my DB HT unit slid right in with no grinding required.
For Les in an earlier post, I tried finding a unit built in the good ole USA, but could not find a comparable unit to the DB. Due to the emergency at the time I purchased a new starter from NAPA and it left me stranded in a mall a short time later on a Sat. evening. Got that one replaced from NAPA the next day and on Monday ordered my DB unit - it arrived three days later (standard shipping).
Lots of miles later and the DB unit is still spinning the engine over as if it was new.
Comment on hard starting: Do not overlook the alternator when troubleshooting hard starting. It may produce enough to slowly turn the engine and eventually crank, but may not produce enough volts/amps to maintain proper volts, etc. on the sensors. A buddy of mine ('99 F250) was in the shop for nine days and it turned out to be the alternator. Now it runs like a champ.
Is there a 1/4" more clearance on Pete's truck or a 1/4" more patience??? With mine (Not a DB, but the same thing) it was all about finding the right wiggle.
Did anyone try loosening the bolts on the cross member and banging it back with a hammer? What is it hooked to? Would that hurt something?
Is there a 1/4" more clearance on Pete's truck or a 1/4" more patience??? With mine (Not a DB, but the same thing) it was all about finding the right wiggle.
Did anyone try loosening the bolts on the cross member and banging it back with a hammer? What is it hooked to? Would that hurt something?
Its permanently attached to the frame....and the engine(with bolts).....wouldnt sugguest trying it.
I couldnt even get mine to sit flat on the bell housing without grinding some. I tried everyway I could, but it wouldnt go, one of the case bolts would catch, and the back case. I havent heard of any 2wd trucks having to grind any, although with 4x4's some do and some dont.
Comment on hard starting: Do not overlook the alternator when troubleshooting hard starting. It may produce enough to slowly turn the engine and eventually crank, but may not produce enough volts/amps to maintain proper volts, etc. on the sensors. A buddy of mine ('99 F250) was in the shop for nine days and it turned out to be the alternator. Now it runs like a champ.
Ya, I thought about that. But looking at the batteries I took out they look kind of old, and they look underpowered. They're the Wal-Crap batteries and I noticed they say 700 CCA and 850 CA @ 32. Not really a good battery for this truck IMO. The new Motorcrafts are 850 CCA.
Oh, and DB Electrical had the starter boxed up and shipped and info emailed to me within an hour of paying for it. Nice.
Is there a 1/4" more clearance on Pete's truck or a 1/4" more patience??? With mine (Not a DB, but the same thing) it was all about finding the right wiggle.
Did anyone try loosening the bolts on the cross member and banging it back with a hammer? What is it hooked to? Would that hurt something?
Perhaps it was a 1/4" more desperate determination. It definitely took a number of tries before I found the right angle on the dangle so I could wrangle it into place.
OK. New starter is going in the truck, but I had to interrupt the process long enough to snap a few comparison pics and post up so you folks can SEE the difference between the high-torque starter from DB Electrical and the plain jane stocker.
Needless to say, I was fairly warned about it being "much larger", "a tight fit", "really heavy", "really heavy duty", etc.
.....
...but I was SHOCKED when I opened the package and saw this monster laying in the box (which felt more like a full-size battery was inside).
Now I get to enjoy the pleasure of putting this puppy in by myself this afternoon!
Obviously... the stock starter is the dirty one on top, and below.... well, you can see for yourself!
Sorry guys but I gota get my wifes truck on the rode here quick. I can get it 2 fit but when I rotate it in the mounting holes arent lining up. at the top right there is also a bolt going into the housing with a metal tab over it.
Should this be removed. Also my stocker only had 2 bolts holdn her in. Is that the way it should be? Thanks for any help...
Did you get the large gear reduction starter that mounts with two bolts or the standard replacement starter? Because it sounds like you might have received a 3 bolt starter, but you need to two bolt.
Did you get the large gear reduction starter that mounts with two bolts or the standard replacement starter? Because it sounds like you might have received a 3 bolt starter, but you need to two bolt.
My big azz starter uses three bolts. It isn't the DB, but it sounds like the same thing.
I got the DB Electrical starter Model 2-2197-ND. It has 2 mounting holes. I could get it flush but when I rotate it clockwise to line up the bolts it pops back out with the front of the starter hitting on the metal tube near the crossmember. Im kinda at a loss, I worked on it for an hour/half and couldnt get it to go. So, I tried putting the old one back in and broke the copper bolt that the battery hot wire goes to. I gotta figure somethin out if you guys believe I got the right part from DB. What am I missing
I don't know what to tell you, mine just went right in and bolted up. The model number you keep providing isn't listed on his site. Are you putting it so the larger starter motor is down; so the drain tube is facing down?