Yes, the 2002s+ have gold (mine included). That's what I wanted to know, Lee. You just confirmed what I thought, that the gold with its partial SCA, partial OAT still gets dropout. That means my flush just got bumped up a notch or two on my to-do list... Thanks for the info!!!

 

I guess we both learned something new today.

 

Does anyone know of a write-up on the flush procedure?

 

Here is a thread for the coolant flush: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/65...tem-flush.html

I opted to built my own coolant filter kit rather than purchase it. I was able to do it for $60. Bought the filter base and filter from Fleet Filter. I decided against the kit from Diesel site primarily because of the location of the filter. There is too much stuff in the engine bay to begin with. I stole an idea from another member and mounted the coolant filter behind the drivers side bumper. It is out of the way and out of site. Check out the picks in my gallery.

 

Cut and pasted to a Word doc and saved to my hard drive a few years back.

I used this method, with a few small changes, when I back flushed my Excursion in preparation for the switch to Chevron Delo ELC.

------------------------------------------------------------------------


Goochs Radiator Flush Procedure


Here's my flush procedure for doing a complete flush:

You'll need the following:

4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate. In agreement with International who made your engine, I recommend a conventional coolant with SCA, or a pre-charged conventional coolant for the early 99's (pre-2/2/99). For all other 99-up PSD's I recommend a Heavy Duty ELC. But the choice of coolant is yours.

SCA (if using conventional un-charged coolant). Amount depends on the SCA maker (usually 3-4 pints).

Up to 20 gallons of distilled water (you may use less if your tap water quality is excellent requiring less flushing).

A Prestone flush kit with "T".

1-1/2 foot of 5/8" hose (to go on flush "T").

A new thermostat gasket.

Possibly a new thermostat, new coolant filter (if you've added one), or any hoses or hose clamps that you think may need replacing.

Note: A children's small plastic wading pool works good for a catch container. Some fit between the front wheels perfectly.


Flushing procedure:

Park truck on level surface. Allow to cool.

Turn in-cab heater valve all the way to "hot". This will help circulate the old coolant out of the heater core during flushing.

Remove degas bottle cap slowly (be careful if hot).

Drain radiator at pet-**** (bottom left-hand driver's side) into suitable container. Expect at least a 5-gallon bucket-full.

Remove lower radiator hose (at radiator) and drain any sediment and/or coolant from radiator and hose into container.

Remove driver's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container.

Remove passenger's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container (this is best done without an extension on the wrench, working under the truck from the top rear side of starter - no need to remove starter).

Remove thermostat housing and thermostat.

Re-install thermostat housing without thermostat, using old gasket (it's ok if it leaks a little while flushing).

Re-install both block plugs finger-tight.

Re-install lower radiator hose temporarily.

Close radiator pet-****.

Remove heater hose at passenger's side coming off the engine (just below intercooler tube).

Install that heater hose to one end of the flush "T".

Install 1 1/2 foot of 5/8" hose to other end of flush "T".

Install the remaining end of the 5.8" hose to fitting where the original hose was removed from.

*Note*: You could permanently install the flushing "T" in the heater hose if desired.

Install garden hose onto flush "T".

Turn garden hose on until clear water (no green tint) runs (backflushes) out of top of degas bottle. This will take several minutes.

With hose still on, start and run engine for a couple of minutes, again until water coming out of degas bottle is clear (no green tint).

Turn engine off. Turn garden hose off.

Drain radiator at petcock, remove both block plugs, remove lower radiator hose.

Remove flushing "T", the extra 5/8" hose, and reinstall the original heater hose to engine.

Close radiator petcock, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs, reinstall lower radiator hose (permanently).

Fill system with distilled water until the degas bottle is full.

Run engine a couple of minutes.

Drain radiator petcock, remove both block plugs.

Close radiator petcock, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs.

Again, fill degas bottle with distilled water.

Run engine a couple of minutes.

Drain radiator petcock, remove both block plugs.

Close radiator petcock permanently.

Install both block plugs and tighten permanently.

(You may decide to flush with distilled water one more time if your tap water is extremely bad).

Install thermostat and new thermostat gasket.

Add 4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate to the degas bottle.

If using SCA, add it to cooling system per SCA manufacturer's instructions (usually 3-4 pints).

Add distilled water to finish filling the system until the degas bottle indicates between min/max.

Replace degas bottle cap.

Rinse off any coolant from engine and underbody of vehicle.

Run engine (or drive truck for faster heating), until thermostat opens and hot air is felt through heater in cab. Periodically check coolant level adding distilled water as necessary. If heater does not get hot (or stay hot), it may be necessary to rev engine or purge air from the cooling system.

Add distilled water until level equalizes (min/max mark) in degas bottle. (this may take several days).

Use test strip to test and add SCA if applicable.

This method will yield approximately a 50/50 mixture of coolant/distilled water. If in cold climates, it is always best to have the freeze protection tested with a quality refractometer.

Write down date and mileage of coolant maintenance for future use.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here are pictures of where the block plugs are located.
http://www.dieselsite.com/pdffiles/evans.pdf

Stewart

 

Thanks for the link and write up.
That is just what I need.
Excellent job guys

 

How long are you guys going between coolant filter changes?

 

I go til it gets stopped up. You can tell when it does because the return line in the tank wont be flowing much.

 

Good info in here, some reps to come for some of you. Somewhere it was mentioned that the ELC is not preferred for early birds- any particular reason? I already have the rad hose that goes behind the belt (one plus to an early bird!) but will I need to replace the upper/lower rad hoses when I replace the pump? I'll have to read that flush technique a few times to get it down... sounds intensive. We have pretty good water up here so I may just take my chances with the garden hose and forego the distilled H2O... undecided tho.
I thought the silicates in the coolant were due to cavitation from the injection process... is this eliminated with the ELC coolant? If a filter is not necessary then that is cool... less $ to spend is always a happy thing!

 

Chase, i bought my water pump from northernautoparts.com, shipped to the house for under $100, and have never had a probem with it. I dont see why u couldnt use a good ELC coolant in your engine. I used the Fleetrite from international and i like it alot. Check the condition of your hoses, if they are good, i wouldnt replace them if they dont need it. Some guys say replace them, but it is up to u. But i would change all your clamps, just my $.02.

Ken

 

Ken- I need to check local avail. on the pump at Napa... seems they sell the same pump but no idea on cost. Is the coolant you used "standard" or ELC coolant, and are you running a filter setup? Hoses look good, and the leakage seems to have stopped at least temporarily. I need to track down a fan nut wrench too...

 

The coolant i used is an ELC from International. I dont think u can go wrong with it. definitely worth it. I have the coolant filter, have not installed it yet. Waiting for when i do my othe rmods. U can get the Fan Clutch tool from Autozone to rent. it works great. I would higly recommend the airtex pump from Northernautoparts. i have heard of guys having issues with the Napa pumps.

 

Some Napas stock the Airtex, getting the parts monkey to tell you if it's the right pump might be the trick. Renting from Autozone would be an option if I lived down there, up here I'm pretty well hosed.

 

i think it might be $40 bucks to rent. i dont think thye charge by the day

 

Drive to Spokane- $10
Putting up with Spokane morons for a day- $30 (in alcohol once I get home)
Rent tools- $40
Drive home, make repairs- $10 + beer costs of $15
Drive back to Spokane- $10
Get money refunded for tools- +$40
Moron alcohol fee- $30
Drive home- $10
TOTAL- $195

Or... try to mooch some off someone on the forums, pay shipping both ways AND not have to deal with Spokane traffic... $40 tops. Did I mention I wouldn't have to deal with Spokane traffic?